Excavations in Western Thebes, 2021

In 2021, working from the outer wall of Medinet Habu north about 100 meters, west of the road that leads to the Valley of the Queens, and east to the temples of Thutmose III, Ramesses IV and Amunhotep Son of Hapu, the Egyptian Expedition discovered three districts of a city with well-preserved architecture. The borders of the districts have serpentine walls. The artifacts from the main district indicated the manufacture of faience and stone jewelry industry, textiles, and leatherwork. The second shows grinding of grain, baking, and processing meat. Sealings and jar labels show that the name of the city was THn Itn, “The Dazzling Aten” and so it was part of the support city for Malkata and perhaps Amunhotep’s memorial temple. A cemetery dated to Dynasties 25–27 (yet to be fully investigated), was found to the west of the city.

Sintered transparent polycrystalline ceramics: the next generation of fillers for clarity enhancement in corundum

A significant proportion of mined natural corundum (ruby and sapphire) contain fractures, which negatively affects a gemstone’s clarity and value. Over the past decades, heat treatment techniques have been developed for either fracture healing, or filling to make such gems marketable. The clarity enhancement processes are mainly based on techniques which are either not durable, as in the case of lead silicate fillers, or do not yield perfect transmittance through a fracture, as in the case of borax based fluxes. Therefore, the gemstone treatment community is actively in pursuit of better techniques for clarity enhancement in corundum. Given that application of pressure is a recent advancement in the heat treatment processes of natural sapphire, it is essential to explore the possibilities regarding different outcomes such treatments can have. In this perspective paper, we have briefly described how application of pressure during heat treatments can lead to in-situ sintering of transparent polycrystalline ceramics within the fractures of corundum, which can result in clarity enhancement. Spinel-structure based fillers can be tailored to mimic corundum in terms of tribological, chemical and optical properties. Therefore, gemstones treated with such fillers will be durable, unlike currently used glass-based filler material. We also provide a possible explanation for ghost-fissures in sapphires heated under pressure, as being a by-product of in-situ sintering process of ceramic fillers that are thermodynamically compatible with Al2O3. The prospect of transparent polycrystalline ceramics in the gem and jewelry industry opens a new field of research in this area, given that ceramic fillers can outperform currently used methods and material for clarity enhancement in gemstones. In essence, we present a novel application for sintered transparent polycrystalline ceramics.

Artist jewelry designer entrepreneurship: does it only glitter or is it also gold?

Purpose Creative entrepreneurship has contributed to economic development of regions and countries and have become models for the countries in the Western world. Jewelry designer entrepreneurs are one of the contributors toward creative economy for their role in economic prosperity. This article aims to investigate brand-building efforts of jewelry designer entrepreneurs. This study also aims to explore how jewelry designer entrepreneurs develop and communicate brand narrative, and how brand backstories confer value to jewelry. Design/methodology/approach This study used a qualitative approach. Semi-structured in-depth interviews were conducted with seven Portuguese designer jewelry. Findings The study identified seven themes to reflect the brand narratives of the Portuguese jewelry designer entrepreneurs: designer artists considered the importance of international recognition; designer jewelry uses the ontological metaphor to connect emotionally; designer jewelry making a jewelry piece that is fluid and organic; limited association with fashion; distinctive brand communication; fair pricing strategy; and identifying self as artistic worker. The study also shows that jewelry designer entrepreneurs adopt a distinctive brand communication tactics to connect emotionally with imagine customers. Practical implications This study proposes a general and managerial guide to boost personal brand jewelry designer entrepreneurs through brand narratives. Originality/value This study bridges an academia gap on personal branding, exploring how jewelry designer entrepreneurs develop and communicate brand narrative and brand backstories adding value to the jewelry industry.

Historical context and current trends in the jewelry art of Ukraine

The purpose of the article. Illumination of the problem of the decline of traditional folk arts associated with the functioning of unique art crafts in Ukraine in the direction of jewelry art. Methodology. The research methodology is based on the use of observations of art-historical, historical and cultural analysis. The scientific novelty lies in focusing on the disclosure of historical facts of the development of jewelry art in Ukraine, which further contributed to mass production on enterprises organized by the state and the definition of the overall issue of jewelry. Conclusions. At the end of the twentieth century, most state-owned enterprises have not sustained the economic transition to market relations. The loss of the supply system of raw materials, the decomposition of interregional well-established connections, restrictions of masters in creative opportunities, an inadequate taxation system, the rise in the price of energy carriers, and the reduction of sales volumes affected the rapid fall in the activities of art jewelry. Modern masters of jewelers after the proclaiming of sovereign Ukraine continued to develop, which noted the creation of the state's poster service of Ukraine, and later the collective association - the association of jewelers of Ukraine. Oriented on world fashion trends increased the aesthetic and artistic level of products of the Ukrainian jewelry industry. Education and growth of small private jewelry firms, carrying out personal and group exhibitions of jewelers in Kyiv, Lviv, and other cities have a positive effect on the artistic form of products, which has not always correlated with the economic component.

Out of The Economic Crises: Changes in East Java Gold Jewelry Industry

Kelurahan Sidomukti, Kecamatan Kebomas, Kabupaten Gresik, Jawa Timur selama ini dikenal sebagai salah satu sentra produksi perhiasan emas yang dijalankan secara tradisional berbasis industri UMKM. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mendeskripsikan bagaimana perubahan struktur industri yang diinisiasi oleh para perajin perhiasan emas di Sidomukti sebagai bagian dari strategi adaptasi para perajin tersebut dalam menghadapi krisis. Krisis yang dimaksud adalah menurunnya skala industri perhiasan emas di Sidomukti serta menurunnya pendapatan yang diakibatkan fluktuasi harga emas sejak krisis moneter tahun 1997/1998. Rumus yang berlaku adalah, harga emas di pasaran tergantung nilai kurs dolar terhadap rupiah. Semakin rendah dan semakin stabil harga emas di pasaran, semakin kondusif iklim industri perhiasan emas. Akan tetapi sejak krisis moneter 1997/1998, harga emas di pasaran cenderung naik dan tidak stabil. Menggunakan metode penelitian kualitatif dengan pendekatan deskriptif, penelitian ini akan menjelaskan strategi adaptasi yang dijalankan para perajin dalam menghadapi krisis tersebut. Para perajin mengubah struktur industri putting out yang sudah berlangsung selama ini, dengan memodifikasi rantai produksi yang sebelumnya berporos kepada juragan menjadi lebih fleksibel. Caranya para perajin tidak lagi menggantungkan siklus produksi pada pesananan juragan, melainkan secara mandiri mencoba memproduksi sendiri serta memasarkannya juga secara mandiri. Penelitian ini ingin memberikan kontribusi berupa data dan analisa tentang resiliensi sektor industri berbasis UMKM dalam menghadapi krisis dan menjadikan sektor industri berbasis UMKM sebagai sektor yang adaptif dalam menghadapi turbulensi ekonomi.

JEWELLER M. K. DZHAMALUDINOV: ARTISTIC HANDWRITING OF THE MASTER

The article presents an analysis of one of the famous pieces of jewelry – silver cognac set by the People's Artist of Russia M. K. Dzhamaludinov. The author shows the degree of influence of M. K. Dzhamaludinov's creative heritage on the development of the jewelry industry in Dagestan, in particular on the filigree style, traces the development of engraved and cut floral ornament in the work of a master. The legacy of the significant works of the masters determined the further development of Avar metal-plastic in the XX century.

About the monograph “Collection and jewelry cassiterite”

Specialists of the Sergo Ordzhonikidze Russian State University for Geological Prospecting (MGRI), which had been training gemologists for many years, conducted an interesting and substantial study devoted to a non-traditional use of cassiterite, a mineral known to man for millennia. The monograph2 under review discusses various aspects of the use of cassiterite, as well as its accompanying minerals, for producing jewelry, collection and ornamental materials. Given the increasing popularity of natural minerals in recent decades, there is a growth of interest among collectors and manufacturers in non-traditional semi-precious stone raw materials and their use in the jewelry industry. The world trade in this area is significant and continues to demonstrate an increasing trend. In this regard, the work of D.A. Petrochenkov devoted to jewelry and ornamental cassiterites seems to be highly relevant. For the first time in world practice, the monograph comprehensively covers questions concerning cassiterite and its application, thus contributing to popularization of cassiterite jewelry and craftsmanship and laying the foundation for a new direction in the semi-precious stone industry. The author of the monograph critically reviewed the results of previous studies on the mineral and chemical composition of cassiterite and added an extensive set of his own analytical methods. The gemological and technological characteristics of cassiterite minerals were given, along with recommendations on their rational search, use and quality improvement. In term of ecological parameters, it was shown that the content of carcinogenic and radioactive elements in jewelry cassiterites does not exceed the background values. The market conditions were described, and recommendations on the organization of mining and geological work in this sphere were presented.

JAPANESE AESTHETICS IN AMERICAN SILVER MASTERPIECES

Japanese culture with its unique monuments of architecture, sculpture, painting, small forms, decorative and applied arts, occupies a special place in the development of world art. Influenced by China, Japanese masters created their own unique style based on the aesthetics of contemplation and spiritual harmony of man and nature. In the context of "Japan's inspiration" the work refers to the influence of the art of the Land of the Rising Sun on American decorative arts and, in particular, on the silver jewelry industry in trends of a new aesthetic direction of the last third of the XIXth century, the "Aesthetic movement". The article provides a brief overview of the history of the emergence and development of decorative silver art in the United States. The important centers of silversmithing in the USA and the most important American manufacturers of the XIXth century are described in more detail. The article also touches on the influence of Japanese aesthetic ideas on European creative groups and on the formation of innovative ideas in European decorative arts. At the same time, an attempt is made to trace the origin, development trends, evolution and variations of "Japanesque" style in American decorative and applied art, in particular, in the works of Edward Moore and Charles Osborne (Tiffany & Co jewelry multinational company).