scholarly journals Overtopping of solitary waves and solitary bores on a plane beach

2012 ◽  
Vol 468 (2147) ◽  
pp. 3494-3516 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. E. Baldock ◽  
D. Peiris ◽  
A. J. Hogg
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Scaling Laws ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Storm Surges ◽  
Volume Flux ◽  
Tsunami Inundation ◽  
Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Wave Forms ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Waves

The overtopping of solitary waves and bores present major hazards during the initial phase of tsunami inundation and storm surges. This paper presents new laboratory data on overtopping events by both solitary waves and solitary bores. Existing empirical overtopping scaling laws are found to be deficient for these wave forms. Two distinct scaling regimes are instead identified. For solitary waves, the overtopping rates scale linearly with the deficit in run-up freeboard. The volume flux in the incident solitary wave is also an important parameter, and a weak dependence on the nonlinearity of the waves ( H / d ) is observed. For solitary bores, the overtopping cannot be scaled uniquely, because the fluid momentum behind the incident bore front is independent of the bore height, but it is in close agreement with recent solutions of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The maximum overtopping rate for the solitary waves is shown to be the lower bound of the overtopping rate for the solitary bores with the same deficit in freeboard. Thus, for a given run-up, the solitary bores induce greater overtopping rates than the solitary waves when the relative freeboard is small.

scholarly journals Dispersive mudslide-induced tsunamis

1998 ◽  
Vol 5 (3) ◽  
pp. 127-136 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Rubino ◽  
S. Pierini ◽  
J. O. Backhaus
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Intermediate Phase ◽  
Water Model ◽  
Tsunami Propagation ◽  
Tsunami Waves ◽  
Open Sea ◽  
Petviashvili Equation ◽  
Wave Forms ◽  
Generation Region ◽  
Run Up

Abstract. A nonlinear nested model for mudslide-induced tsunamis is proposed in which three phases of the life of the wave, i.e. the generation, far-field propagation and costal run-up are described by means of different mathematical models, that are coupled through appropriate matching procedures. The generation and run-up dynamics are simulated through a nonlinear shallow-water model with movable lateral boundaries: in the generation region two active layers are present, the lower one describing the slide descending on a sloping topography. For the intermediate phase, representing wave propagation far from the generation region, the hydrostatic assumption is not assumed as appropriate in general and, therefore, a nonlinear model allowing for weak phase dispersion, namely a Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation, is used. This choice is made in order to assess the relevance of dispersive features such as solitary waves and dispersive tails. It is shown that in some realistic circumstances dispersive mudslide-induced tsunami waves can be produced over relatively short, distances. In such cases the use of a hydrostatic model throughout the whole tsunami history turns out to give erroneous results. In particular, when solitary waves are generated during the tsunami propagation in the open sea, the resulting run-up process yields peculiar wave forms leading to amplified coastal inundations with respect to a mere hydrostatic context.

LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES

2007 ◽  
Vol 01 (03) ◽  
pp. 257-272 ◽  
Author(s):  
KAO-SHU HWANG ◽  
YU-HSUAN CHANG ◽  
HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG ◽  
YI-SYUAN LI
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Hydraulics Laboratory ◽  
The Waves

The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.

Runup of solitary waves on a circular Island

1995 ◽  
Vol 302 ◽  
pp. 259-285 ◽  
Author(s):  
Philip L. -F. Liu ◽  
Yong-Sik Cho ◽  
Michael J. Briggs ◽  
Utku Kanoglu ◽  
Costas Emmanuel Synolakis
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Wave Equations ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Wave Trapping ◽  
Shallow Water Wave Equations ◽  
Circular Island ◽  
Run Up

This is a study of the interactions of solitary waves climbing up a circular island. A series of large-scale laboratory experiments with waves of different incident height-to-depth ratios and different crest lengths is described. Detailed two-dimensional run-up height measurements and time histories of surface elevations around the island are presented. A numerical model based on the two-dimensional shallow-water wave equations including runup calculations was developed. Numerical model predictions agreed very well with the laboratory data and the model was used to study wave trapping and the effect of slope. Under certain conditions, enhanced runup and wave trapping on the lee side of the island were observed, suggesting a possible explanation for the devastation reported by field surveys in Babi Island off Flores, Indonesia, and in Okushiri Island, Japan.

scholarly journals Run-Up of Solitary Waves on Twin Conical Islands Using a Boussinesq Model

2011 ◽  
Vol 134 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Dongfang Liang ◽  
Alistair G. L. Borthwick ◽  
Jonathan K. Romer-Lee
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Reflected Waves ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Gap Spacing ◽  
Incident Waves

This paper investigates the interaction of solitary waves (representative of tsunamis) with idealized flat-topped conical islands. The investigation is based on simulations produced by a numerical model that solves the two-dimensional Boussinesq-type equations of Madsen and Sørensen using a total variation diminishing Lax–Wendroff scheme. After verification against published laboratory data on solitary wave run-up at a single island, the numerical model is applied to study the maximum run-up at a pair of identical conical islands located at different spacings apart for various angles of wave attack. The predicted results indicate that the maximum run-up can be attenuated or enhanced according to the position of the second island because of wave refraction, diffraction, and reflection. It is also observed that the local wave height and hence run-up can be amplified at certain gap spacing between the islands, owing to the interference between the incident waves and the reflected waves between islands.

scholarly journals TSUNAMI INUNDATION PREDICTION

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 59 ◽  
Author(s):  
Charles L. Bretschneider ◽  
Pieter G. Wybro
Keyword(s):  
Historical Data ◽  
Tsunami Inundation ◽  
Wave Elevation ◽  
Bed Roughness ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Waves

This paper concerns the run-up and inundation characteristics of tsunami surges. The forces and moments produced by the waves are not discussed, however, the proposed technique does provide the necessary information for their determination. The method relies on the knowledge of the wave elevation at the coast (as determined from historical data or other means) and an estimation of the bed roughness. The considerations and calculations involved in determining these parameters are discussed in detail. Twenty-four observed run-ups on the island of Hawaii in the case of the 1946 Aleutian tsunami, and 18 run-ups on the island of Maui for the Chilean 1960 tsunami are used to illustrate the technique. Methods are also presented to predict the shoreline heights and extent of inundation of tsunami surges where historical data is not available.

Solitary waves in rotating fluids

1970 ◽  
Vol 42 (1) ◽  
pp. 61-83 ◽  
Author(s):  
W. G. Pritchard
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Angular Velocity ◽  
Velocity Distribution ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Swirling Flow ◽  
Theoretical Calculations ◽  
Cylindrical Tube ◽  
Infinite Length ◽  
Wave Forms ◽  
The Waves

This paper describes some experiments in rotating flows in which solitary waves were observed.In one set of experiments the waves were generated on a swirling flow whose circumferential velocity distribution resembled that of the Rankine combined vortex. This flow was established by stirring the liquid in a large cylindrical container, in much the same way as one stirs a cup of tea, and it was often found at the cessation of the stirring that a wave had been generated. This wave propagated along the vortex core and was reflected at the bottom of the container and at the free surface of the liquid and displayed the remarkable permanence characteristic of solitary waves. It appears that, to a first approximation, the speed of the waves may be calculated simply from the depression of the free surface of the liquid at the centre of the vortex. These waves are the rotating-fluid counterpart to the solitary waves in fluids of great depth recently discussed by Benjamin (1967b) and by Davis & Acrivos (1967).In a second set of experiments, solitary waves were generated in a long cylindrical tube and are analogous to the familiar solitary wave of open-channel flows. The theory indicates that these waves are possible in any swirling flow in which the angular velocity is distributed non-uniformly. Thus, a long liquid-filled tube was started rotating about its axis with a uniform angular velocity, and waves were generated before the fluid had reached a state of uniform rotation. Using the known velocity distribution for a tube of infinite length, comparisons have been made between the observed wave forms and the theoretical calculations of Benjamin (1967a). There is good agreement between the observed wave forms and the theoretical predictions.

scholarly journals WAVE RUN-UP IN FIELD MEASUREMENTS WITH NEWLY DEVELOPED INSTRUMENT

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 43 ◽  
Author(s):  
Heie F. Erchinger
Keyword(s):  
Scale Effects ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Storm Surges ◽  
Model Tests ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Logarithmic Distribution ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Natural Wind

The height of dikes and other coastal structures can only be calculated after determination of the wave run-up. Several formulas for the calculation of wave run-up are developed after model tests as a rule. But the influences of scale effects and natural wind conditions are practically unknown. To clear these questions further investigations and especially field measurements should be carried out. By measuring the markerline of floating trash on the slope of the seadikes the maximum wave run-up could be found out after four storm surges in 1967 and 1973- In two graphs it will be shown that on the tidal flats the run-up depends on the waterdepth. The run-up was higher than it could be expected after model tests of 1954. With a newly developed special echo sounder the run-up could be measured in January 1976. The waves and the run-up could be registrated synchronously during two severe storm surges. As shown in Fig. 9 it was found a logarithmic distribution of the wave height, wave period and the higher part of the wave run-up. The found wave run-up is considerably higher than estimated before. The measured 98 % run-up is found about twice the computed value. That is an interesting and important result of the first synchronous recording of wave run-up on sea dikes.

scholarly journals THE EFFECTS OF BOTTOM CONFIGURATION ON THE DEFORMATION, BREAKING AND RUN-UP OF SOLITARY WAVES

1968 ◽  
Vol 1 (11) ◽  
pp. 11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Frederick E. Camfield ◽  
Robert L. Street
Keyword(s):  
Continental Shelf ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Bottom Slope ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Waves

Experiments were conducted to determine the various effects on the shoaling, breaking and run-up of solitary waves resulting from the bottom configuration. An initial set of experiments investigated the effect of the initial bottom slope on the breaking and run-up of a wave on a second, higher slope. A second set of experiments considered the effect of a continental shelf configuration on the transmissibility of waves in the shoreward direction, and the decomposition of the waves due to the shallower water depth on the continental shelf. It was found that, in order to make predictions at or near the shoreline for waves generated in deep water, it is necessary to consider the total configuration of the bottom leading to the shoreline.

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