scholarly journals WAVE RUN-UP IN FIELD MEASUREMENTS WITH NEWLY DEVELOPED INSTRUMENT

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 43 ◽  
Author(s):  
Heie F. Erchinger

The height of dikes and other coastal structures can only be calculated after determination of the wave run-up. Several formulas for the calculation of wave run-up are developed after model tests as a rule. But the influences of scale effects and natural wind conditions are practically unknown. To clear these questions further investigations and especially field measurements should be carried out. By measuring the markerline of floating trash on the slope of the seadikes the maximum wave run-up could be found out after four storm surges in 1967 and 1973- In two graphs it will be shown that on the tidal flats the run-up depends on the waterdepth. The run-up was higher than it could be expected after model tests of 1954. With a newly developed special echo sounder the run-up could be measured in January 1976. The waves and the run-up could be registrated synchronously during two severe storm surges. As shown in Fig. 9 it was found a logarithmic distribution of the wave height, wave period and the higher part of the wave run-up. The found wave run-up is considerably higher than estimated before. The measured 98 % run-up is found about twice the computed value. That is an interesting and important result of the first synchronous recording of wave run-up on sea dikes.

Author(s):  
Julien De Rouck ◽  
Peter Troch ◽  
Björn Van de Walle ◽  
Marcel R. A. Van Gent ◽  
Luc Van Damme ◽  
...  

2007 ◽  
Vol 01 (03) ◽  
pp. 257-272 ◽  
Author(s):  
KAO-SHU HWANG ◽  
YU-HSUAN CHANG ◽  
HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG ◽  
YI-SYUAN LI

The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (6) ◽  
pp. 11
Author(s):  
J. G.H.R. Diephuis

When in the period after 1953 the projects to damm up the estuaries in the south western part of the Netherlands took shape and it turned out to be necessary to let very wide discharge sluices into at least one of them, the problem arose which waves had to be taken into account at the structure before, during and after the construction. The waves occurring at high tides and storm surges are determinant for the definite shape and dimensions of the sluices. More frequently occurring waves have to be reckoned with during the construction. Though, especially in recent years, many measurements have been done in nature by the Rijkswaterstaat, supplementary calculations and model investigations appeared necessary, to determine the design criteria at rarely occurring circumstances.


2020 ◽  
Vol 20 (3) ◽  
pp. 333-342
Author(s):  
Le Hai Trung ◽  
Dang Thi Linh ◽  
Tang Xuan Tho ◽  
Nguyen Truong Duy ◽  
Tran Thanh Tung

Seawalls have been erected to protect hundreds of towns and tourism areas stretching along the coast of Vietnam. During storm surges or high tides, wave overtopping and splash-up would often threaten the safety of infrastructures, traffic and residents on the narrow land behind. Therefore, this study investigates these wave-wall interactions via hydraulic small scale model tests at Thuyloi University. Remarkably, the structure models were shaped to have different seaward faces and bullnoses. The wave overtopping discharge and splash run-up height at seawalls with bullnose are significantly smaller than those without bullnose. Furthermore, the magnitude of these decreasing effects is quantitatively estimated.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 75
Author(s):  
Frank Thorenz ◽  
Holger Blum ◽  
Andreas Kortenhaus

The sandy barrier island of Baltrum is located in the north-western part of the German Federal State Lower Saxony in the North Sea. The north-western part of the island is protected by a dune revetment against storm surges and erosion. In order to determine the functionality and loading of the construction under design storm surge conditions and investigate planning alternatives, numerical modeling of sea state conditions in combination with hydraulical model tests for the construction were executed. Measured overtopping rates of up to 125 l/(s.m) and loads up to 150 kPa showed the necessity to strengthen and heighten the initial construction. A combination of wall elements for wave run-up and overtopping reduction in combination with a crest wall were designed in order to meet the technical demands of coastal defence as well as the touristical needs of an important recreation locality.


1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 98
Author(s):  
Yvon Ouellet

In the light of tests on breakwater armor units conducted at Laval University on behalf of the Department of Public Works of Canada, a discussion on various factors involved in model tests on breakwater armor units is presented in comparison with previous studies made on the subject. Tests have been carried out on natural stones, tetrapods and mainly dolosse. Various factors whether they pertain to waves or to the structure are analysed in view of the factors resulting from the interaction of both of them, that is stability of the armor units, damage to the structure or run up of the facing. These factors are the ones for which model tests are conducted. The interpretation of results for the given test conditions should not be evaluated without considering possible scale effects. From the analysis of test results presented by different investigators, a need for the standardization of test results became apparent. Recommendations are made concerning the presentation of results for their future use in engineering design. A standard weight of 100 grs with a standard length of 100 cms for model values are proposed to present the results on a diagram showing significant wave height versus damage, where damage should be expressed in terms of the number of units displaced in the area between + the wave height giving 1% damage.


1997 ◽  
Vol 15 (2) ◽  
pp. 143-151 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. A. Balikhin ◽  
L. J. C. Woolliscroft ◽  
H. St. C. Alleyne ◽  
M. Dunlop ◽  
M. A. Gedalin

Abstract. A method of wave mode determination, which was announced in Balikhin and Gedalin, is applied to AMPTE UKS and AMPTE IRM magnetic field measurements downstream of supercritical quasiperpendicular shock. The method is based on the fact that the relation between phase difference of the waves measured by two satellites, Doppler shift equation, the direction of the wave propagation are enough to obtain the dispersion equation of the observed waves. It is shown that the low frequency turbulence mainly consists of waves observed below 1 Hz with a linear dependence between the absolute value of wave vector |k| and the plasma frame wave frequency. The phase velocity of these waves is close to the phase velocity of intermediate waves Vint = Vacos(θ).


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (6) ◽  
pp. 12
Author(s):  
J. G.H.R. Diephuis ◽  
J. G. Gerritze

This paper deals with the problem of determining the wave characteristics in shallow water from those in deep water. In general this can be done by means of a refraction calculation. If the sea bottom topography is too irregular the height of the waves can be determined by means of a small-scale refraction model. In both cases, however, some additional effects have to be taken into account, viz. the influence of the bottom friction and the influence of the wind.


Author(s):  
T. E. Baldock ◽  
D. Peiris ◽  
A. J. Hogg

The overtopping of solitary waves and bores present major hazards during the initial phase of tsunami inundation and storm surges. This paper presents new laboratory data on overtopping events by both solitary waves and solitary bores. Existing empirical overtopping scaling laws are found to be deficient for these wave forms. Two distinct scaling regimes are instead identified. For solitary waves, the overtopping rates scale linearly with the deficit in run-up freeboard. The volume flux in the incident solitary wave is also an important parameter, and a weak dependence on the nonlinearity of the waves ( H / d ) is observed. For solitary bores, the overtopping cannot be scaled uniquely, because the fluid momentum behind the incident bore front is independent of the bore height, but it is in close agreement with recent solutions of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The maximum overtopping rate for the solitary waves is shown to be the lower bound of the overtopping rate for the solitary bores with the same deficit in freeboard. Thus, for a given run-up, the solitary bores induce greater overtopping rates than the solitary waves when the relative freeboard is small.


Author(s):  
Dieter Vanneste ◽  
Wim Van Hoydonck ◽  
Daphné Thoon

In the framework of the EU Floods Directive, Flanders Hydraulics Research (FHR) is performing flood modeling studies to evaluate the flood risk along the Belgian coast due to extreme storm surges on the North Sea. Thereto, amongst others, the failure behavior of quay walls in the coastal ports must be determined. Computing the landward non-impulsive wave overtopping discharge over a broad quay, in some cases combined with overflow, on which a flood wall can be present at large distance [O (100 m)] from the front edge poses a particular challenge. This matter, to the authors’ knowledge, is not covered in existing literature, e.g. the European Overtopping Manual. It is also not possible to apply the method for reduction of wave overtopping over a wide crest according to Verwaest et al. (2010), since it was developed for breaking waves on a shallow foreshore overtopping a sloping dike, requiring the determination of a run-up level. It is clear that the landward water flow on the quay should be investigated in more detail, as it is characterized by bottom friction and possible inertia due interaction with the flow reflected at the flood wall. To this end, the CFD toolbox OpenFOAM is used to model the final discharges at the landward side of the quay.


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