scholarly journals THE EFFECTS OF BOTTOM CONFIGURATION ON THE DEFORMATION, BREAKING AND RUN-UP OF SOLITARY WAVES

1968 ◽  
Vol 1 (11) ◽  
pp. 11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Frederick E. Camfield ◽  
Robert L. Street
Keyword(s):  
Continental Shelf ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Bottom Slope ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Waves

Experiments were conducted to determine the various effects on the shoaling, breaking and run-up of solitary waves resulting from the bottom configuration. An initial set of experiments investigated the effect of the initial bottom slope on the breaking and run-up of a wave on a second, higher slope. A second set of experiments considered the effect of a continental shelf configuration on the transmissibility of waves in the shoreward direction, and the decomposition of the waves due to the shallower water depth on the continental shelf. It was found that, in order to make predictions at or near the shoreline for waves generated in deep water, it is necessary to consider the total configuration of the bottom leading to the shoreline.

LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES

2007 ◽  
Vol 01 (03) ◽  
pp. 257-272 ◽  
Author(s):  
KAO-SHU HWANG ◽  
YU-HSUAN CHANG ◽  
HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG ◽  
YI-SYUAN LI
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Hydraulics Laboratory ◽  
The Waves

The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.

scholarly journals Overtopping of solitary waves and solitary bores on a plane beach

2012 ◽  
Vol 468 (2147) ◽  
pp. 3494-3516 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. E. Baldock ◽  
D. Peiris ◽  
A. J. Hogg
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Scaling Laws ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Storm Surges ◽  
Volume Flux ◽  
Tsunami Inundation ◽  
Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Wave Forms ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Waves

The overtopping of solitary waves and bores present major hazards during the initial phase of tsunami inundation and storm surges. This paper presents new laboratory data on overtopping events by both solitary waves and solitary bores. Existing empirical overtopping scaling laws are found to be deficient for these wave forms. Two distinct scaling regimes are instead identified. For solitary waves, the overtopping rates scale linearly with the deficit in run-up freeboard. The volume flux in the incident solitary wave is also an important parameter, and a weak dependence on the nonlinearity of the waves ( H / d ) is observed. For solitary bores, the overtopping cannot be scaled uniquely, because the fluid momentum behind the incident bore front is independent of the bore height, but it is in close agreement with recent solutions of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The maximum overtopping rate for the solitary waves is shown to be the lower bound of the overtopping rate for the solitary bores with the same deficit in freeboard. Thus, for a given run-up, the solitary bores induce greater overtopping rates than the solitary waves when the relative freeboard is small.

scholarly journals Long Barotropic Waves Generated by a Storm Crossing Topography

2007 ◽  
Vol 37 (12) ◽  
pp. 2809-2823 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ross Vennell
Keyword(s):  
Continental Shelf ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Fast Moving ◽  
Passage Time ◽  
Finite Width ◽  
Translation Speed ◽  
1D Model ◽  
Moving Storm ◽  
The Waves

Abstract Storms crossing topography are shown to radiate long surface gravity waves. The waves are transients generated by changes in the depth-dependent amplitude of the atmospherically forced pressure wave beneath a storm. This generation mechanism for long waves, known as “meteorological tsunamis” or rissaga, does not appear to have been previously discussed. The transients have periods equal to the passage time of the storm, of order 30 min for small fast-moving storms. A 1D model is used to give the amplitudes of the transient waves generated by a small fast-moving storm crossing a topographic step on to a continental shelf and across a ridge. Large transients are generated by storms whose translation speed is subcritical in deep water and supercritical in shallow water, that is, faster than the shallow-water wave speed. Surprisingly, when the depth difference between the deep water and the continental shelf is large, a gentle transition from deep to shallow water over 10 storm widths only slightly reduces the amplitudes of the transients. The influence of a finite-width shelf on the enhancement of coastal storm surge is also discussed. A 2D numerical model illustrates the topographic transients generated by sub- and supercritical storms moving across a ridge. Topographic transients are suggested as a source of energy for seiches on shelves and within embayments. The energy may come from a storm crossing the adjacent continental slope and possibly from distant open-ocean storms crossing multiple ridges and seamounts.

scholarly journals Head-on collision between capillary–gravity solitary waves

2020 ◽  
Vol 2020 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Marin Marin ◽  
M. M. Bhatti
Keyword(s):  
Surface Tension ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Free Parameter ◽  
Order Approximation ◽  
Third Order ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Physical Features ◽  
Third Order Approximation

AbstractThe present study deals with the head-on collision process between capillary–gravity solitary waves in a finite channel. The present mathematical modeling is based on Nwogu’s Boussinesq model. This model is suitable for both shallow and deep water waves. We have considered the surface tension effects. To examine the asymptotic behavior, we employed the Poincaré–Lighthill–Kuo method. The resulting series solutions are given up to third-order approximation. The physical features are discussed for wave speed, head-on collision profile, maximum run-up, distortion profile, the velocity at the bottom, and phase shift profile, etc. A comparison is also given as a particular case in our study. According to the results, it is noticed that the free parameter and the surface tension tend to decline the solitary-wave profile significantly. However, the maximum run-up amplitude was affected in great measure due to the surface tension and the free parameter.

scholarly journals Composition and Distribution of Deep Water Macroalgae Species from the Continental Shelf of Sergipe State, Brazil

Phytotaxa ◽  
2014 ◽  
Vol 190 (1) ◽  
pp. 250 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sonia Maria Barreto Pereira ◽  
JULIANA TORRES ◽  
Lisia Monica de Souza Gestinari
Keyword(s):  
Continental Shelf ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Number Of Species ◽  
Total Species ◽  
New Occurrences ◽  
Benthic Macroalgae

This study investigates the deep-water flora of the continental shelf in Sergipe State, Brazil located between 10º36’08’’ – 11º21’07’’S and 36º28’10’’ – 37º13’47’’W. The samples were collected by dragging at 18 sampling sites, between 10 to 30 m depth, from May 1999 to March 2000. A total of 91 taxa of marine benthic macroalgae were identified (56 Rhodophyta, 20 Heterokontophyta and 15 Chlorophyta). Forty-seven (47) of these are new occurrences for Sergipe flora. Rhodophyta dominated, accounting for 61% of the total species collected, with the order Ceramiales having the highest number of species present (39.55%), followed by Heterokontophyta (23%), mostly represented by Dictyotales (65%). Finally, 15 Chlorophyta taxa were found (16%), mainly composed of Bryopsidales (53%).

Evolution of solitary waves in a two-pycnocline system

2009 ◽  
Vol 642 ◽  
pp. 235-277 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. NITSCHE ◽  
P. D. WEIDMAN ◽  
R. GRIMSHAW ◽  
M. GHRIST ◽  
B. FORNBERG
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Initial Conditions ◽  
Oscillation Period ◽  
Resonance Phenomenon ◽  
Numerical Code ◽  
Asymptotic Model ◽  
Narrow Region ◽  
Near Resonance ◽  
Long Time ◽  
The Waves

Over two decades ago, some numerical studies and laboratory experiments identified the phenomenon of leapfrogging internal solitary waves located on separated pycnoclines. We revisit this problem to explore the behaviour of the near resonance phenomenon. We have developed a numerical code to follow the long-time inviscid evolution of isolated mode-two disturbances on two separated pycnoclines in a three-layer stratified fluid bounded by rigid horizontal top and bottom walls. We study the dependence of the solution on input system parameters, namely the three fluid densities and the two interface thicknesses, for fixed initial conditions describing isolated mode-two disturbances on each pycnocline. For most parameter values, the initial disturbances separate immediately and evolve into solitary waves, each with a distinct speed. However, in a narrow region of parameter space, the waves pair up and oscillate for some time in leapfrog fashion with a nearly equal average speed. The motion is only quasi-periodic, as each wave loses energy into its respective dispersive tail, which causes the spatial oscillation magnitude and period to increase until the waves eventually separate. We record the separation time, oscillation period and magnitude, and the final amplitudes and celerity of the separated waves as a function of the input parameters, and give evidence that no perfect periodic solutions occur. A simple asymptotic model is developed to aid in interpretation of the numerical results.

Effects of plane progressive irrotational waves on thermal boundary layers

1971 ◽  
Vol 50 (2) ◽  
pp. 321-334 ◽  
Author(s):  
James Witting
Keyword(s):  
Boundary Layers ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Maximum Amplitude ◽  
Capillary Waves ◽  
Temperature Gradients ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Inviscid Incompressible Fluid ◽  
Mean Temperature ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Thermal Boundary Layers

The average changes in the structure of thermal boundary layers at the surface of bodies of water produced by various types of surface waves are computed. the waves are two-dimensional plane progressive irrotational waves of unchanging shape. they include deep-water linear waves, deep-water capillary waves of arbitrary amplitude, stokes waves, and the deep-water gravity wave of maximum amplitude.The results indicate that capillary waves can decrease mean temperature gradients by factors of as much as 9·0, if the average heat flux at the air-water interface is independent of the presence of the waves. Irrotational gravity waves can decrease the mean temperature gradients by factors no more than 1·381.Of possible pedagogical interest is the simplicity of the heat conduction equation for two-dimensional steady irrotational flows in an inviscid incompressible fluid if the velocity potential and the stream function are taken to be the independent variables.

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