scholarly journals CHANNEL SEDIMENTATION CAUSING BY GROUPING WAVES AND WIND WAVES AT THE FISHING PORT, JAPAN

2018 ◽  
pp. 76
Author(s):  
Takehito Horie ◽  
Takashi Kamo ◽  
Yasuji Nozaka ◽  
Hitoshi Tanaka
Keyword(s):  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Developmental Process ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Eof Analysis ◽  
Annual Maximum ◽  
Wave Analysis ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
External Forces

Most of fishing ports in Hokkaido, Japan are located in the surf zone on the sandy beach. As a result, channel sedimentation has become a serious problem in many fishing ports. As an example, when planning a coastal structure to control littoral drift and nearshore current, annual maximum wave heights (wind waves) is used as the external forces condition in many cases. However, the effect as expected is not obtained on channel sedimentation at fishing ports in Hokkaido. To solve such a problem, it is necessary to understand the relationships between channel sedimentation and external force, and be able to reveal the developmental process of channel sedimentation. Then, field observation and theoretical approach (wave-to-wave analysis, spectral analysis, EOF analysis, et al) become important tools.

scholarly journals Climate Change Impacts on Wind Waves Generated by Major Tropical Cyclones off the Coast of New Jersey, USA

2021 ◽  
Vol 7 ◽  
Author(s):  
Reza Marsooli ◽  
Mohammad Jamous ◽  
Jon K. Miller
Keyword(s):  
New Jersey ◽  
Sea Level Rise ◽  
Sea Level ◽  
Tropical Cyclones ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Greenhouse Gas Emission ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Climate Conditions ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Hydrodynamic Wave

Coastal areas of State of New Jersey in the Northeastern United States are exposed to extreme wind waves generated by tropical cyclones in the Atlantic Ocean. Past studies suggest that the frequency and intensity of major hurricanes in the Atlantic basin would increase under high greenhouse gas emission scenarios. Furthermore, sea level observations have revealed that the local mean sea level along the coast of New Jersey is rising at a rate higher than that of the global sea level rise. The objective of this study is to quantify the combined influence of sea level rise (SLR) and hurricane climatology change on wave heights induced by major hurricanes off the coast of New Jersey. To this end, a coupled hydrodynamic-wave model is utilized to simulate wind waves for synthetic hurricanes generated for the climate conditions in the historical period of 1980–2000 and future period of 2080–2100 under the RCP8.5 high emission scenario. The synthetic storms are generated by a hurricane model for the climate conditions obtained from four different global climate models. The projections of future wave heights show statistically significant increases in the wave heights induced by major hurricanes. Under the combined effects of hurricane climatology change and a SLR of 1.19 m, the increase in the extreme wave heights 15% in back-bays and shallow waters of the nearshore zone and up to 10% in deeper coastal waters. It is found that SLR alone would result in a significant increase in the hurricane-induced wave heights in the present-day surf zone.

scholarly journals PROBABILITIES OF BREAKING WAVE CHARACTERISTICS

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 25 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Ian Collins
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Probability Density ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Probability Distributions ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Probability Densities ◽  
Wave Heights

Utilizing the hydrodynamic relationships for shoaling and refraction of waves approaching a shoreline over parallel bottom contours a procedure is developed to transform an arbitrary probability density of wave characteristics in deep water into the corresponding breaking characteristics in shallow Water A number of probability distributions for breaking wave characteristics are derived m terms of assumed deep water probability densities of wave heights wave lengths and angles of approach Some probability densities for wave heights at specific locations in the surf zone are computed for a Rayleigh distribution in deep water The probability computations are used to derive the expectation of energy flux and its distribution.

scholarly journals Assessment of surf zone zooplankton dynamics in a Southwestern Atlantic sandy beach: Seasonal cycle and tidal height influence

2019 ◽  
Vol 227 ◽  
pp. 106307 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Clara Menéndez ◽  
Carla A. Baleani ◽  
Martín R. Amodeo ◽  
E. Marcelo Acha ◽  
M. Cintia Piccolo
Keyword(s):  
Seasonal Cycle ◽  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Tidal Height ◽  
Southwestern Atlantic ◽  
Zooplankton Dynamics

Measurements of bed level oscillation cycles in the surf zone of a sandy beach

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gael Arnaud ◽  
Mathieu Mory ◽  
Stephane Abadie ◽  
Denis Morichon
Keyword(s):  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Level Oscillation

Statistical Uncertainties in Wave Heights and Combined Loads on Offshore Structures

1991 ◽  
Vol 113 (2) ◽  
pp. 156-161
Author(s):  
S. R. Winterstein ◽  
S. Haver
Keyword(s):  
Environmental Variables ◽  
Probabilistic Models ◽  
Offshore Structures ◽  
Annual Maximum ◽  
Storm Events ◽  
Base Shear ◽  
Combined Loads ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Gumbel Model ◽  
Non Gaussian

Probabilistic models of combined environmental variables are shown, and their effect on the probability distribution of annual maximum base shear is estimated. A new “generalized Gumbel” model is introduced for the critical wave height parameter. By preserving higher statistical moments, this model better follows extreme storm events. Uncertainty in this model is included through statistical uncertainty in these moments. Corresponding reliability confidence intervals are also shown as a function of the sample size of hindcast data. Finally, models of the non-Gaussian crest and the drag parameter are found to be of similar importance in predicting the 100-yr base shear.

scholarly journals Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone

1984 ◽  
Vol 8 (4) ◽  
pp. 303-329 ◽  
Author(s):  
I.A. Svendsen
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Set Up

Numerical Simulation of Breaking Waves in a Wave Group by SPH

2015 ◽  
Vol 776 ◽  
pp. 151-156
Author(s):  
Ni Nyoman Pujianiki
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Return Flow ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Smoothed Particle ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic ◽  
Wave Break

Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic (SPH) numerical model is used to investigate wave group effects at breaking and after breaking by comparing individual waves in a group with equivalent regular waves. Regular wave break almost at the same position and with the same wave height. Meanwhile in a wave group, the wave breaks in the variant positions and with variant wave heights. These phenomena cause the breaking point to be more scattered in a wave group rather than in regular waves. Return flow due to the breaking of wave groups appears more significant and is extended to the full depth in the surf zone rather than in regular waves. Swash oscillations of the wave group in the surf zone appear irregular. Meanwhile in regular waves, swash oscillations are almost constant.

scholarly journals SLED SYSTEM FOR PROFILING SUSPENDED LITTORAL DRIFT

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 106 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.P. Coakley ◽  
H.A. Savile ◽  
M. Pedrosa ◽  
M. Larocque
Keyword(s):  
Great Lakes ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Research Literature ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Virtual Absence ◽  
Fast Ice ◽  
Steep Waves ◽  
Sled System ◽  
Coastal Research

There are many factors which suggest that littoral zone processes in the Great Lakes differ substantially from those of the marine coasts described in the existing coastal research literature. Among these factors are the lack of an appreciable tidal cycle; the predominance of relatively short, steep, waves; the virtual absence of swell waves; and the presence of shore fast ice in winter. As a result, many of the empirical relationships derived for marine coasts might be of questionable applicability to Great Lakes coasts. The present study, which represents only one phase of a long-term project designed to develop more specific littoral transport relationships, is aimed at obtaining accurate, direct estimates of the actual littoral transport at an experimental site located at the western end of Lake Ontario. This paper will describe a mechanical system designed to collect a series of time-averaged samples of suspended sediment for concentration determinations as well as flow velocity and water depth at locations across the surf zone. Some preliminary results of the field program using the system will also be presented and discussed.

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