A Beach Probing System (BPS) for Determining Surf Zone Bathymetry, Currents, and Wave Heights from Measurements Offshore

1999 ◽  
Author(s):  
Joan Oltman-Shay
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Heights

scholarly journals PROBABILITIES OF BREAKING WAVE CHARACTERISTICS

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 25 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Ian Collins
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Probability Density ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Probability Distributions ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Probability Densities ◽  
Wave Heights

Utilizing the hydrodynamic relationships for shoaling and refraction of waves approaching a shoreline over parallel bottom contours a procedure is developed to transform an arbitrary probability density of wave characteristics in deep water into the corresponding breaking characteristics in shallow Water A number of probability distributions for breaking wave characteristics are derived m terms of assumed deep water probability densities of wave heights wave lengths and angles of approach Some probability densities for wave heights at specific locations in the surf zone are computed for a Rayleigh distribution in deep water The probability computations are used to derive the expectation of energy flux and its distribution.

scholarly journals Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone

1984 ◽  
Vol 8 (4) ◽  
pp. 303-329 ◽  
Author(s):  
I.A. Svendsen
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Set Up

Numerical Simulation of Breaking Waves in a Wave Group by SPH

2015 ◽  
Vol 776 ◽  
pp. 151-156
Author(s):  
Ni Nyoman Pujianiki
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Return Flow ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Smoothed Particle ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic ◽  
Wave Break

Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic (SPH) numerical model is used to investigate wave group effects at breaking and after breaking by comparing individual waves in a group with equivalent regular waves. Regular wave break almost at the same position and with the same wave height. Meanwhile in a wave group, the wave breaks in the variant positions and with variant wave heights. These phenomena cause the breaking point to be more scattered in a wave group rather than in regular waves. Return flow due to the breaking of wave groups appears more significant and is extended to the full depth in the surf zone rather than in regular waves. Swash oscillations of the wave group in the surf zone appear irregular. Meanwhile in regular waves, swash oscillations are almost constant.

scholarly journals FIELD INVESTIGATIONS IN THE TOW STUDY PROGRAMME FOR COASTAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE NETHERLANDS

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 123 ◽  
Author(s):  
H. Derks ◽  
M.J.F. Stive
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Weather Conditions ◽  
Measurement Systems ◽  
Field Investigations ◽  
Study Programme ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Coastal Sediment Transport ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Offshore Wave

Field campaigns were conducted in 1981 and 1982/83 on the Dutch coast near Egmond. Measurements were made of surface elevations, water velocities and sediment concentrations in 3 to 8 surf zone locations and 2 to 5 offshore locations simultaneously. A total of 50 measurement series was obtained under a variety of weather conditions, resulting in offshore wave heights of 0.2 to 4.6 m. A description is given of the field set-up, the instruments and measurements, and the collected data. The quality of the various measurement systems and the data produced has been investigated extensively by intercomparison of instruments and devices in the field. The results are reported here.

WAVE HEIGHTS IN THE SURF ZONE

2006 ◽  
Vol 11 (62) ◽  
pp. 183-193 ◽  
Author(s):  
H. L. Mitchell
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Heights

Effects of Wave Streaming and Wave Variations on Nearshore Wave-Driven Circulation

2020 ◽  
Vol 50 (10) ◽  
pp. 3025-3041
Author(s):  
Peng Wang ◽  
James C. McWilliams ◽  
Yusuke Uchiyama ◽  
Mickaël D. Chekroun ◽  
Daling Li Yi
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Simulations ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Material Transport ◽  
Inner Shelf ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Passive Tracers ◽  
Mean Current

AbstractWave streaming is a near-bottom mean current induced by the bottom drag on surface gravity waves. Wave variations include the variations in wave heights, periods, and directions. Here we use numerical simulations to study the effects of wave streaming and wave variations on the circulation that is driven by incident surface waves. Wave streaming induces an inner-shelf Lagrangian overturning circulation, which links the inner shelf with the surf zone. Wave variations cause alongshore-variable wave breaking that produces surf eddies; however, such eddies can be suppressed by wave streaming. Moreover, with passive tracers we show that wave streaming and wave variations together enhance the cross-shelf material transport.

scholarly journals WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION AND WAVE GROUPING IN SURF ZONE

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 4 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hajime Mase ◽  
Yuichi Iwagaki
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Frequency Distributions ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Deep Water Wave

The main purpose of this paper is to propose a model for prediction of the spatial distributions of representative wave heights and the frequency distributions of wave heights of irregular waves in shallow-water including the surf zone. In order to examine the validity of the model, some experiments of irregular wave transformation have been made. In addition, an attempt has been made to clarify the spatial distribution of wave grouping experimentally. Especially the present paper focuses finding the effects of the bottom slope and the deep-water wave steepness on the wave height distribution and wave grouping.

scholarly journals CHANNEL SEDIMENTATION CAUSING BY GROUPING WAVES AND WIND WAVES AT THE FISHING PORT, JAPAN

2018 ◽  
pp. 76
Author(s):  
Takehito Horie ◽  
Takashi Kamo ◽  
Yasuji Nozaka ◽  
Hitoshi Tanaka
Keyword(s):  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Developmental Process ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Eof Analysis ◽  
Annual Maximum ◽  
Wave Analysis ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
External Forces

Most of fishing ports in Hokkaido, Japan are located in the surf zone on the sandy beach. As a result, channel sedimentation has become a serious problem in many fishing ports. As an example, when planning a coastal structure to control littoral drift and nearshore current, annual maximum wave heights (wind waves) is used as the external forces condition in many cases. However, the effect as expected is not obtained on channel sedimentation at fishing ports in Hokkaido. To solve such a problem, it is necessary to understand the relationships between channel sedimentation and external force, and be able to reveal the developmental process of channel sedimentation. Then, field observation and theoretical approach (wave-to-wave analysis, spectral analysis, EOF analysis, et al) become important tools.

scholarly journals WAVE SET-UP IN THE SURF ZONE

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 62
Author(s):  
Uwe A. Hansen
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Dynamic Load ◽  
Static Load ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Level Elevation ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Protective Structures ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Design Water Level

In designing coastal protective structures the knowledge of the static load due to the water level elevation is as important as that of the dynamic load due to the waves. The structure, designed at sandy coasts with well formed surf zones on the beach - these areas are the basis of this examination - has to stand against both, the superposition of the static and dynamic load, which are dependent on each other. Undoubtedly a rise in the design water level (a summation of different influences - see figure 1) will cause an increase in the wave heights and the reverse will happen, when the design water level decreases.

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