scholarly journals MEASURED AND COMPUTED COASTAL OCEAN BEDLOAD TRANSPORT

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 83
Author(s):  
Alan William Niedoroda ◽  
Chen-Mean Ma ◽  
Peter A. Mangarella ◽  
Ralph H. Cross ◽  
Scott R. Huntsman ◽  
...  

A comparison is made between the measured infilling of two test pits off the coastline of San Francisco and predictions using a coastal bedload transport model. The model, based on the work of Madsen and Grant (1967), relates the bedload transport to the bottom shear stress through an empirical relationship based on laboratory experiments. The bottom shear stress is estimated from the bottom currents created by waves and low frequency currents. The model applies beyond the breaker zone in contrast to littoral transport. The test pits, dredged as part of the Southwest Ocean Outfall Project for San Francisco, were located 1.6 km (1 mi) and 3.2 km (2 mi) offshore in 13' m (42 ft) and 16 m (53 ft) of water. The depth of the pits relative to the natural seabed was about 8.4 m (25 ft). The comparison was conducted for a period up to 2 months in the fall of 1978. The paper discussed the quality and scope of available data required as input to the model and shows how regional wave data were trans formed to augment local measurements. Uncertainties in model results stemming from limitations in the input data are presented. With suitable adjustment of the scale of the gravitational term in the expression for the Shields parameter, overall agreement between computed and measured bedload was accomplished within the limits of accuracy of the bathymetric surveys. A sensitivity analysis of selected input conditions and coefficients was also conducted.

Geologos ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 23 (1) ◽  
pp. 1-13 ◽  
Author(s):  
Aleksandra Dudkowska ◽  
Gabriela Gic-Grusza

Abstract The wave-induced bedload transport and spatial distribution of its magnitude in the southern Baltic coastal zone of Poland are estimated. The vicinity of Lubiatowo was selected as a representative part of the Polish coast. It was assumed that transport is a function of shear stress; alternative approaches, based on force balances and discharge relationships, were not considered in the present study. Four models were studied and compared over a wide range of bottom shear stress and wind-wave conditions. The set of models comprises classic theories that assume a simplified influence of turbulence on sediment transport (e.g., advocated by authors such as Du Boys, Meyer-Peter and Müller, Ribberink, Engelund and Hansen). It is shown that these models allow to estimate transport comparable to measured values under similar environmental conditions. A united general model for bedload transport is proposed, and a set of maps of wave bedload transport for various wind conditions in the study area is presented.


1999 ◽  
Vol 104 (C4) ◽  
pp. 7715-7728 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ralph T. Cheng ◽  
Chi-Hai Ling ◽  
Jeffrey W. Gartner ◽  
P. F. Wang

2018 ◽  
Vol 847 ◽  
pp. 186-227 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Higuera ◽  
P. L.-F. Liu ◽  
C. Lin ◽  
W.-Y. Wong ◽  
M.-J. Kao

The main goal of this paper is to provide insights into swash flow dynamics, generated by a non-breaking solitary wave on a steep slope. Both laboratory experiments and numerical simulations are conducted to investigate the details of runup and rundown processes. Special attention is given to the evolution of the bottom boundary layer over the slope in terms of flow separation, vortex formation and the development of a hydraulic jump during the rundown phase. Laboratory experiments were performed to measure the flow velocity fields by means of high-speed particle image velocimetry (HSPIV). Detailed pathline patterns of the swash flows and free-surface profiles were also visualized. Highly resolved computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations were carried out. Numerical results are compared with laboratory measurements with a focus on the velocities inside the boundary layer. The overall agreement is excellent during the initial stage of the runup process. However, discrepancies in the model/data comparison grow as time advances because the numerical model does not simulate the shoreline dynamics accurately. Introducing small temporal and spatial shifts in the comparison yields adequate agreement during the entire rundown process. Highly resolved numerical solutions are used to study physical variables that are not measured in laboratory experiments (e.g. pressure field and bottom shear stress). It is shown that the main mechanism for vortex shedding is correlated with the large pressure gradient along the slope as the rundown flow transitions from supercritical to subcritical, under the developing hydraulic jump. Furthermore, the bottom shear stress analysis indicates that the largest values occur at the shoreline and that the relatively large bottom shear stress also takes place within the supercritical flow region, being associated with the backwash vortex system rather than the plunging wave. It is clearly demonstrated that the combination of laboratory observations and numerical simulations have indeed provided significant insights into the swash flow processes.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (2) ◽  
pp. 142
Author(s):  
Annalisa De Leo ◽  
Laura Cutroneo ◽  
Damien Sous ◽  
Alessandro Stocchino

Microplastic (MP) debris is recognized to be one of the most serious threats to marine environments. They are found in all seas and oceanic basins worldwide, even in the most remote areas. This is further proof that the transport of MPs is very efficient. In the present study, we focus our attention on MPs’ transport owing to the Stokes drift generated by sea waves. Recent studies have shown that the interaction between heavy particles and Stokes drift leads to unexpected phenomena mostly related to inertial effects. We perform a series of laboratory experiments with the aim to directly measure MPs’ trajectories under different wave conditions. The main objective is to quantify the inertial effect and, ultimately, suggest a new analytical formulation for the net settling velocity. The latter formula might be implemented in a larger scale transport model in order to account for inertial effects in a simplified approach.


Author(s):  
Jun-ichi SAKAMOTO ◽  
Haruhiko MATSUMOTO ◽  
Kesayoshi HADANO ◽  
Takuzo AMANO ◽  
Kiyonobu MITSUNOBU

2017 ◽  
Vol 21 (11) ◽  
pp. 5503-5515 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hiroyuki Hirashima ◽  
Francesco Avanzi ◽  
Satoru Yamaguchi

Abstract. The heterogeneous movement of liquid water through the snowpack during precipitation and snowmelt leads to complex liquid water distributions that are important for avalanche and runoff forecasting. We reproduced the formation of capillary barriers and the development of preferential flow through snow using a three-dimensional water transport model, which was then validated using laboratory experiments of liquid water infiltration into layered, initially dry snow. Three-dimensional simulations assumed the same column shape and size, grain size, snow density, and water input rate as the laboratory experiments. Model evaluation focused on the timing of water movement, thickness of the upper layer affected by ponding, water content profiles and wet snow fraction. Simulation results showed that the model reconstructs relevant features of capillary barriers, including ponding in the upper layer, preferential infiltration far from the interface, and the timing of liquid water arrival at the snow base. In contrast, the area of preferential flow paths was usually underestimated and consequently the averaged water content in areas characterized by preferential flow paths was also underestimated. Improving the representation of preferential infiltration into initially dry snow is necessary to reproduce the transition from a dry-snow-dominant condition to a wet-snow-dominant one, especially in long-period simulations.


Author(s):  
N. Broner ◽  
H.G. Leventhall

Over recent years, it has become apparent that low frequency noise annoyance is more widespread than originally believed. Annoyance has occurred where the emitted noise is unbalanced towards the low frequencies even though the dB(A) level has been low. Following laboratory experiments carried out as part of an investigation into low frequency annoyance, combined with field annoyance data, the Low Frequency Noise Rating (LFNR) curves are proposed for the assessment of low frequency noise annoyance complaints.


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