scholarly journals FIELD INVESTIGATIONS IN SURF ZONES

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 29
Author(s):  
Hans Henning Dette ◽  
Alfred Fohrboter

During storm surges considerable wave energies are dissipated in surf zones; the energy transfer rates are in the order of one up to two powers of ten higher than outside the surf zone. A breaker parameter s introduced by FOHRBOTER (1974) with regard to a quantitative breaker classification, especially of the intermediate types between surging and spilling, was found to be convenient for practical application. The breaker parameter e is in close relation with the horizontal asymmetry parameter a of the breaking wave. With decreasing breaker parameter the asymmetry is increased and reverse. Within the longshore currents macro-turbulences were discovered. The periodical fluctuation parameter y was found to increase nearly linearily with decreasing breaker parameter; the narrower the area is, where the main energy is dissipated the smaller becomes the mean periodical fluctuation which seems to be independent of the wave period but reaches up to 7 and more fluctuations within the wave period. The mean longshore currents velocities reached up to 1.5 m/s above the seabottom; th£ coefficient of variation was scattering considerably between 400 per cent at low velocities (v,= 0.1 m/s) and 20 per cent at the highest velocities (v.= 1.5 m/s). The instantaneous longshore current velocities were nearly symmetrically distributed around the mean velocity, the mean amplitudes were nearly constant and reached approx 0.35 m/s whereas the periodical fluctuation decreased from 2.6 s at low mean velocities up to 1.7 s at high velocities.

2000 ◽  
Vol 1 (2) ◽  
pp. 3 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. L. Inman ◽  
W. H. Quinn

Surface and bottom currents in the surf zone were measured at 15 equally spaced points along two straight beaches with approximately parallel bottom contours. The measurements showed that offshore currents predominate over onshore currents at the bottom, while at the surface there is a slight predominance in the onshore direction. With regard to the longshore component, it was found that surface and bottom currents have a similar velocity distribution. The variability of the longshore component as measured by its standard deviation is equal to or larger than the mean longshore velocity. This wide variation in longshore currents indicates the impracticability of estimating the mean velocity from a single observation of longshore current. It was found that the momentum approach to the prediction of longshore currents by Putnam, Munk and Traylor (1949) leads to useful forecasts provided the beach friction coefficient k is permitted to vary with the longshore velocity, V. The indicated relation is k~v^(-3/2).


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 49 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pietro Scandura ◽  
Erminia Capodicasa ◽  
Enrico Foti

The results of an experimental study concerning with the measurements of the steady current induced by sea waves approaching the coast are reported. The experiments have been performed in a large wave flume in order to minimize the scale effects. The measurements have been carried out at four different stations along the wave flume by using Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters. The results show that the mean velocity profiles are significantly influenced by the wave period. In particular, when the period reduces the mean velocity gradient close to the wave trough increases. The trend of the velocity profiles is different from that predicted by the theory and mostly reported by other experiments. However, experimental results are reported in literature which are in a qualitative agreement with the present ones.


1962 ◽  
Vol 84 (3) ◽  
pp. 251-254 ◽  
Author(s):  
F. K. Deaver ◽  
W. R. Penney ◽  
T. B. Jefferson

An investigation has been made to determine the effect of low frequency oscillations of relatively large amplitude on the rate of heat transfer from a small horizontal wire to water. Frequencies from 0 to 4.25 cps and amplitudes to 2.76 in. were employed. Temperature differences up to 140 deg F provided heat flux from 2000 to 300,000 Btu/hr ft2. A Reynolds number was defined based on the mean velocity of the wire, and it was shown that heat-transfer rates may be predicted by either forced, free, or mixed convection correlations depending on the relative magnitudes of Reynolds and Grashof numbers.


1964 ◽  
Vol 1 (9) ◽  
pp. 12
Author(s):  
Tsao-Yi Chiu ◽  
Per Bruun

This article introduces the longshore current computations based on theories published under the title "Longshore Currents and Longshore Troughs" (Bruun, 1963). Two approaches are used to formulate the longshore current velocities for a beach profile with one bar under the following assumptions: (1) that longshore current is evenly distributed (or a mean can be taken) along the depthj (2) that the solitary wave theory is applicable for waves in the surf zone; (3) that the statistical wave-height distribution for a deep water wave spectrum with a single narrow band of frequencies can be used near the shore, and (4) that the depth over the bar crest, Dcr, equal 0.8Hv/i /o\. Breaking wave height H^Q/^X is designated to be the actual height equal to Hw-j (significant wave height). Diagrams have been constructed for both approaches for beach profiles with one bar, from which longshore current velocities caused by various wave-breaking conditions can be read directly. As for longshore currents along the beach with a multibar system, fifteen diagrams covering a great variety of wave-breaking conditions are provided for obtaining longshore current velocities in different troughs.


2005 ◽  
Vol 35 (11) ◽  
pp. 2187-2203 ◽  
Author(s):  
Falk Feddersen ◽  
J. H. Trowbridge

Abstract The effect of breaking-wave-generated turbulence on the mean circulation, turbulence, and bottom stress in the surf zone is poorly understood. A one-dimensional vertical coupled turbulence (k–ɛ) and mean-flow model is developed that incorporates the effect of wave breaking with a time-dependent surface turbulence flux and uses existing (published) model closures. No model parameters are tuned to optimize model–data agreement. The model qualitatively reproduces the mean dissipation and production during the most energetic breaking-wave conditions in 4.5-m water depth off of a sandy beach and slightly underpredicts the mean alongshore current. By modeling a cross-shore transect case example from the Duck94 field experiment, the observed surf-zone dissipation depth scaling and the observed mean alongshore current (although slightly underpredicted) are generally reproduced. Wave breaking significantly reduces the modeled vertical shear, suggesting that surf-zone bottom stress cannot be estimated by fitting a logarithmic current profile to alongshore current observations. Model-inferred drag coefficients follow parameterizations (Manning–Strickler) that depend on the bed roughness and inversely on the water depth, although the inverse depth dependence is likely a proxy for some other effect such as wave breaking. Variations in the bed roughness and the percentage of breaking-wave energy entering the water column have a comparable effect on the mean alongshore current and drag coefficient. However, covarying the wave height, forcing, and dissipation and bed roughness separately results in an alongshore current (drag coefficient) only weakly (strongly) dependent on the bed roughness because of the competing effects of increased turbulence, wave forcing, and orbital wave velocities.


1979 ◽  
Vol 44 (3) ◽  
pp. 700-710 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ivan Fořt ◽  
Hans-Otto Möckel ◽  
Jan Drbohlav ◽  
Miroslav Hrach

Profiles of the mean velocity have been analyzed in the stream streaking from the region of rotating standard six-blade disc turbine impeller. The profiles were obtained experimentally using a hot film thermoanemometer probe. The results of the analysis is the determination of the effect of relative size of the impeller and vessel and the kinematic viscosity of the charge on three parameters of the axial profile of the mean velocity in the examined stream. No significant change of the parameter of width of the examined stream and the momentum flux in the stream has been found in the range of parameters d/D ##m <0.25; 0.50> and the Reynolds number for mixing ReM ##m <2.90 . 101; 1 . 105>. However, a significant influence has been found of ReM (at negligible effect of d/D) on the size of the hypothetical source of motion - the radius of the tangential cylindrical jet - a. The proposed phenomenological model of the turbulent stream in region of turbine impeller has been found adequate for values of ReM exceeding 1.0 . 103.


2021 ◽  
Vol 4 ◽  
pp. 100207
Author(s):  
Muhammad Iqbal Basri ◽  
Ida Farida ◽  
Yudy Goysal ◽  
Jumraini Tammasse ◽  
Muhammad Akbar

Water ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (7) ◽  
pp. 883
Author(s):  
Nargess Moghaddassi ◽  
Seyed Habib Musavi-Jahromi ◽  
Mohammad Vaghefi ◽  
Amir Khosrojerdi

As 180-degree meanders are observed in abundance in nature, a meandering channel with two consecutive 180-degree bends was designed and constructed to investigate bed topography variations. These two 180-degree mild bends are located between two upstream and downstream straight paths. In this study, different mean velocity-to-critical velocity ratios have been tested at the upstream straight path to determine the meander’s incipient motion. To this end, bed topography variations along the meander and the downstream straight path were addressed for different mean velocity-to-critical velocity ratios. In addition, the upstream bend’s effect on the downstream bend was investigated. Results indicated that the maximum scour depth at the downstream bend increased as a result of changing the mean velocity-to-critical velocity ratio from 0.8 to 0.84, 0.86, 0.89, 0.92, 0.95, and 0.98 by, respectively, 1.5, 2.5, 5, 10, 12, and 26 times. Moreover, increasing the ratio increased the maximum sedimentary height by 3, 10, 23, 48, 49, and 56 times. The upstream bend’s incipient motion was observed for the mean velocity-to-critical velocity ratio of 0.89, while the downstream bend’s incipient motion occurred for the ratio of 0.78.


Author(s):  
Armando Félix Quiñonez ◽  
Guillermo E Morales Espejel

This work investigates the transient effects of a single subsurface inclusion over the pressure, film thickness, and von Mises stress in a line elastohydrodynamic lubrication contact. Results are obtained with a fully-coupled finite element model for either a stiff or a soft inclusion moving at the speed of the surface. Two cases analyzed consider the inclusion moving either at the same speed as the mean velocity of the lubricant or moving slower. Two additional cases investigate reducing either the size of the inclusion or its stiffness differential with respect to the matrix. It is shown that the well-known two-wave elastohydrodynamic lubrication mechanism induced by surface features is also applicable to the inclusions. Also, that the effects of the inclusion become weaker both when its size is reduced and when its stiffness approaches that of the matrix. A direct comparison with predictions by the semi-analytical model of Morales-Espejel et al. ( Proc IMechE, Part J: J Engineering Tribology 2017; 231) shows reasonable qualitative agreement. Quantitatively some differences are observed which, after accounting for the semi-analytical model's simplicity, physical agreement, and computational efficiency, may then be considered as reasonable for engineering applications.


2014 ◽  
Vol 905 ◽  
pp. 369-373
Author(s):  
Choo Tai Ho ◽  
Yoon Hyeon Cheol ◽  
Yun Gwan Seon ◽  
Noh Hyun Suk ◽  
Bae Chang Yeon

The estimation of a river discharge by using a mean velocity equation is very convenient and rational. Nevertheless, a research on an equation calculating a mean velocity in a river was not entirely satisfactory after the development of Chezy and Mannings formulas which are uniform equations. In this paper, accordingly, the mean velocity in unsteady flow conditions which are shown loop form properties was estimated by using a new mean velocity formula derived from Chius 2-D velocity formula. The results showed that the proposed method was more accurate in estimating discharge, when compared with the conventional formulas.


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