scholarly journals CURRENTS IN THE SURF ZONE

2000 ◽  
Vol 1 (2) ◽  
pp. 3 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. L. Inman ◽  
W. H. Quinn

Surface and bottom currents in the surf zone were measured at 15 equally spaced points along two straight beaches with approximately parallel bottom contours. The measurements showed that offshore currents predominate over onshore currents at the bottom, while at the surface there is a slight predominance in the onshore direction. With regard to the longshore component, it was found that surface and bottom currents have a similar velocity distribution. The variability of the longshore component as measured by its standard deviation is equal to or larger than the mean longshore velocity. This wide variation in longshore currents indicates the impracticability of estimating the mean velocity from a single observation of longshore current. It was found that the momentum approach to the prediction of longshore currents by Putnam, Munk and Traylor (1949) leads to useful forecasts provided the beach friction coefficient k is permitted to vary with the longshore velocity, V. The indicated relation is k~v^(-3/2).

Author(s):  
Jeffrey P. Bons ◽  
Rory Blunt ◽  
Steven Whitaker

The rebound characteristics of 100–500μm quartz particles from an aluminum surface were imaged using the particle shadow velocimetry (PSV) technique. Particle trajectory data were acquired over a range of impact velocity (30–90 m/s) and impact angle (20°–90°) typical for gas turbine applications. The data were then analyzed to obtain coefficients of restitution (CoR) using four different techniques: (1) individual particle rebound velocity divided by the same particle’s inbound velocity (2) individual particle rebound velocity divided by inbound velocity taken from the mean of the inbound distribution of velocities from all particles (3) rebound velocity distribution divided by inbound velocity distribution related using distribution statistics and (4) the same process as (3) with additional precision provided by the correlation coefficient between the two distributions. It was found that the mean and standard deviation of the CoR prediction showed strong dependence on the standard deviation of the inbound velocity distribution. The two methods that employed statistical algorithms to account for the distribution shape [methods (3) and (4)] actually overpredicted mean CoR by up to 6% and CoR standard deviation by up to 100% relative to method (1). The error between the methods is shown to be a strong (and linear) function of correlation coefficient, which is typically 0.2–0.6 for experimental CoR data. Non-Gaussianity of the distributions only accounts for up to 1% of the error in mean CoR, and this largely from the non-zero skewness of the inbound velocity distribution. Particle rebound data acquired using field average techniques that do not provide an estimate of correlation coefficient are most accurately evaluated using method (2). Method (3) can be used with confidence if the standard deviation of the inbound velocity distribution is less than 10% of the mean velocity, or if a linear correction based on an assumed correlation coefficient is applied.


1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 29
Author(s):  
Hans Henning Dette ◽  
Alfred Fohrboter

During storm surges considerable wave energies are dissipated in surf zones; the energy transfer rates are in the order of one up to two powers of ten higher than outside the surf zone. A breaker parameter s introduced by FOHRBOTER (1974) with regard to a quantitative breaker classification, especially of the intermediate types between surging and spilling, was found to be convenient for practical application. The breaker parameter e is in close relation with the horizontal asymmetry parameter a of the breaking wave. With decreasing breaker parameter the asymmetry is increased and reverse. Within the longshore currents macro-turbulences were discovered. The periodical fluctuation parameter y was found to increase nearly linearily with decreasing breaker parameter; the narrower the area is, where the main energy is dissipated the smaller becomes the mean periodical fluctuation which seems to be independent of the wave period but reaches up to 7 and more fluctuations within the wave period. The mean longshore currents velocities reached up to 1.5 m/s above the seabottom; th£ coefficient of variation was scattering considerably between 400 per cent at low velocities (v,= 0.1 m/s) and 20 per cent at the highest velocities (v.= 1.5 m/s). The instantaneous longshore current velocities were nearly symmetrically distributed around the mean velocity, the mean amplitudes were nearly constant and reached approx 0.35 m/s whereas the periodical fluctuation decreased from 2.6 s at low mean velocities up to 1.7 s at high velocities.


1953 ◽  
Vol 20 (1) ◽  
pp. 109-114
Author(s):  
S. I. Pai

Abstract The Reynolds equations of motion of turbulent flow of incompressible fluid have been studied for turbulent flow between parallel plates. The number of these equations is finally reduced to two. One of these consists of mean velocity and correlation between transverse and longitudinal turbulent-velocity fluctuations u 1 ′ u 2 ′ ¯ only. The other consists of the mean pressure and transverse turbulent-velocity intensity. Some conclusions about the mean pressure distribution and turbulent fluctuations are drawn. These equations are applied to two special cases: One is Poiseuille flow in which both plates are at rest and the other is Couette flow in which one plate is at rest and the other is moving with constant velocity. The mean velocity distribution and the correlation u 1 ′ u 2 ′ ¯ can be expressed in a form of polynomial of the co-ordinate in the direction perpendicular to the plates, with the ratio of shearing stress on the plate to that of the corresponding laminar flow of the same maximum velocity as a parameter. These expressions hold true all the way across the plates, i.e., both the turbulent region and viscous layer including the laminar sublayer. These expressions for Poiseuille flow have been checked with experimental data of Laufer fairly well. It also shows that the logarithmic mean velocity distribution is not a rigorous solution of Reynolds equations.


2015 ◽  
Vol 741 ◽  
pp. 475-480
Author(s):  
Na Gao ◽  
Chen Pu ◽  
Bao Chen

2nd order implicit format is implemented in the Navier-Stokes code to deal with instantaneous item unsteady flows. Three simulations are made to testify the method on flow control. First, the external flow fields of synthetic jets are simulated, the mean velocity on the center line, the jet width and velocity distribution are compared well with experimental results. Secondly, the flow fields of synthetic jet in a crossflow are simulated, orifice slot, the mean velocity on the center line and velocity distribution are compared well with experimental results. Finally, the flow control experiments on separation of airfoil are simulated, control methods include steady suction and synthetic jets. Both methods show their ability to favorably effect the flow separation, shortening the length of separation bubble and improving the pressure levels in separation areas in different degrees.


Author(s):  
Pranav Joshi ◽  
Joseph Katz

The goal of this research is to study the effect of favorable pressure gradient (FPG) on the near wall structures of a turbulent boundary layer on a smooth wall. 2D-PIV measurements have been performed in a sink flow, initially at a coarse resolution, to characterize the development of the mean flow and (under resolved) Reynolds stresses. Lack of self-similarity of mean velocity profiles shows that the boundary layer does not attain the sink flow equilibrium. In the initial phase of acceleration, the acceleration parameter, K = v/U2dU/dx, increases from zero to 0.575×10−6, skin friction coefficient decreases and mean velocity profiles show a log region, but lack universality. Further downstream, K remains constant, skin friction coefficient increases and the mean velocity profiles show a second log region away from the wall. In the initial part of the FPG region, all the Reynolds stress components decrease over the entire boundary layer. In the latter phase, they continue to decrease in the middle of the boundary layer, and increase significantly close to the wall (below y∼0.15δ), where they collapse when normalized with the local freestream velocity. Turbulence production and wallnormal transport, scaled with outer units, show self-similar profiles close to the wall in the constant K region. Spanwise-streamwise plane data shows evidence of low speed streaks in the log layer, with widths scaling with the boundary layer thickness.


1982 ◽  
Vol 119 ◽  
pp. 173-217 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. E. Perry ◽  
M. S. Chong

In this paper an attempt is made to formulate a model for the mechanism of wall turbulence that links recent flow-visualization observations with the various quantitative measurements and scaling laws established from anemometry studies. Various mechanisms are proposed, all of which use the concept of the horse-shoe, hairpin or ‘A’ vortex. It is shown that these models give a connection between the mean-velocity distribution, the broad-band turbulence-intensity distributions and the turbulence spectra. Temperature distributions above a heated surface are also considered. Although this aspect of the work is not yet complete, the analysis for this shows promise.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 49 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pietro Scandura ◽  
Erminia Capodicasa ◽  
Enrico Foti

The results of an experimental study concerning with the measurements of the steady current induced by sea waves approaching the coast are reported. The experiments have been performed in a large wave flume in order to minimize the scale effects. The measurements have been carried out at four different stations along the wave flume by using Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters. The results show that the mean velocity profiles are significantly influenced by the wave period. In particular, when the period reduces the mean velocity gradient close to the wave trough increases. The trend of the velocity profiles is different from that predicted by the theory and mostly reported by other experiments. However, experimental results are reported in literature which are in a qualitative agreement with the present ones.


2002 ◽  
Vol 13 (06) ◽  
pp. 829-835
Author(s):  
P. PAŚCIAK ◽  
M. J. KRAWCZYK ◽  
K. KUŁAKOWSKI

The Duke–Rubinstein model of gel electrophoresis is applied to calculate the velocity of DNA molecules. We have found that the velocity distribution becomes flat at high electric fields. Simultaneously, the percentage of immobile molecules increases. Effectively, the mean velocity starts to decrease at high fields. The field value, where the mean velocity is maximal, decreases with the molecule length. The results are compared with those from similar calculations obtained by Heukelum and Beljaars within the cage model.


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