scholarly journals Wave transformation across a macrotidal shore platform under low to moderate energy conditions

2017 ◽  
Vol 43 (1) ◽  
pp. 298-311 ◽  
Author(s):  
Wayne J. Stephenson ◽  
Larissa A. Naylor ◽  
Helen Smith ◽  
Bin Chen ◽  
Ralph P. Brayne
1995 ◽  
Vol 95 (1) ◽  
pp. 1-11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Troels Aagaard ◽  
Jørgen Nielsen ◽  
Brian Greenwood ◽  
Christian Christiansen ◽  
Lars Lund-Hansen ◽  
...  

1991 ◽  
Vol 65 (6) ◽  
pp. 945-957 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lewis M. Brown ◽  
Carl B. Rexroad ◽  
Donald L. Eggert ◽  
Alan S. Horowitz

The Providence Limestone member of the Dugger Formation in Indiana and its lithologic correlatives in the southern part of the Illinois Basin are thin lime mudstones to packstones lying stratigraphically between the Herrin and Hymera Coal Members of the Dugger Formation and their equivalents. The purposes of the study are to describe and correlate the Providence conodont fauna and to apply biofacies analysis and petrographic study to interpreting the paleoenvironments.Providence conodonts are dominated by representatives of the Idiognathodus-Streptognathodus plexus. Hindeodus is abundant; Neognathodus is common; and Idioprioniodus, Adetognathus, and Diplognathodus are common only in some sections. Aethotaxis is a minor constituent.Conodont biofacies reflect a shallow, nearshore, low- to moderate-energy marine environment. The Idiognathodus-Streptognathodus plexus indicates quiet to moderately elevated energy levels. Hindeodus replaces part of the Idiognathodus-Streptognathodus plexus in higher energy conditions. Diplognathodus has an affinity for low to slightly elevated energy conditions. Migration during ontogeny to quite, organic-rich water from a more open, slightly higher energy environment is indicated for Streptognathodus oppletus.Assignment to the Neognathodus dilatus-N. roundyi zone indicates a middle Desmoinesian age. The new species Diplognathodus indianaensis is morphologically intermediate between the early Desmoinesian D. coloradoensis and the late Desmoinesian D. illinoisensis and allows refinement of a Diplognathodus-based zonation.


1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.


2015 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 2135-2147 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. Y. Lo

General relativity is incomplete since it does not include the gravitational radiation reaction force and the interaction of gravitation with charged particles. General relativity is confusing because Einstein's covariance principle is invalid in physics. Moreover, there is no bounded dynamic solution for the Einstein equation. Thus, Gullstrand is right and the 1993 Nobel Prize for Physics press release is incorrect. Moreover, awards to Christodoulou reflect the blind faith toward Einstein and accumulated errors in mathematics. Note that the Einstein equation with an electromagnetic wave source has no valid solution unless a photonic energy-stress tensor with an anti-gravitational coupling is added. Thus, the photonic energy includes gravitational energy. The existence of anti-gravity coupling implies that the energy conditions in space-time singularity theorems of Hawking and Penrose cannot be satisfied, and thus are irrelevant. Also, the positive mass theorem of Yau and Schoen is misleading, though considered as an achievement by the Fields Medal. E = mc2 is invalid for the electromagnetic energy alone. The discovery of the charge-mass interaction establishes the need for unification of electromagnetism and gravitation and would explain many puzzles. Experimental investigations for further results are important.


Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.


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