New Perspectives on Wave Transformation Over a Nearhorizontal Shore Platform: Comparison of a Twodimensional and Transect Approach

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Raphael Louis Krier-Mariani ◽  
Wayne J. Stephenson ◽  
Sarah J. Wakes ◽  
Mark E. Dickson
Keyword(s):  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Shore Platform ◽  
Platform Comparison ◽  
Transect Approach

scholarly journals Wave transformation across a macrotidal shore platform under low to moderate energy conditions

2017 ◽  
Vol 43 (1) ◽  
pp. 298-311 ◽  
Author(s):  
Wayne J. Stephenson ◽  
Larissa A. Naylor ◽  
Helen Smith ◽  
Bin Chen ◽  
Ralph P. Brayne
Keyword(s):  
Energy Conditions ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Shore Platform ◽  
Moderate Energy

The coastal refraction-diffraction wave propagation model

1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Propagation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Diffraction Effect ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Diffraction Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Propagation ◽  
Wave Propagation Model

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.

PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Vertical Axis ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spectral Structure ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
The Waves

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.

Numerical Computation of Wave Transformation on Beaches

1992 ◽  
Vol 35 (1) ◽  
pp. 1-19 ◽  
Author(s):  
Xiping Yu ◽  
Masahiko Isobe ◽  
Akira Watanabe
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Computation ◽  
Wave Transformation

scholarly journals Process-Based Model Prediction of Coastal Dune Erosion through Parametric Calibration

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (6) ◽  
pp. 635
Author(s):  
Hyeok Jin ◽  
Kideok Do ◽  
Sungwon Shin ◽  
Daniel Cox
Keyword(s):  
Large Scale ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Model Performance ◽  
Coastal Dunes ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Storm Event ◽  
Face Model ◽  
Dune Erosion ◽  
Simulation Performance ◽  
Sand Bar

Coastal dunes are important morphological features for both ecosystems and coastal hazard mitigation. Because understanding and predicting dune erosion phenomena is very important, various numerical models have been developed to improve the accuracy. In the present study, a process-based model (XBeachX) was tested and calibrated to improve the accuracy of the simulation of dune erosion from a storm event by adjusting the coefficients in the model and comparing it with the large-scale experimental data. The breaker slope coefficient was calibrated to predict cross-shore wave transformation more accurately. To improve the prediction of the dune erosion profile, the coefficients related to skewness and asymmetry were adjusted. Moreover, the bermslope coefficient was calibrated to improve the simulation performance of the bermslope near the dune face. Model performance was assessed based on the model-data comparisons. The calibrated XBeachX successfully predicted wave transformation and dune erosion phenomena. In addition, the results obtained from other two similar experiments on dune erosion with the same calibrated set matched well with the observed wave and profile data. However, the prediction of underwater sand bar evolution remains a challenge.

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