The Use of Silicones as Extractants of Biologically Active Substances from Vegetable Raw Materials

Based on theoretical studies, the authors of this paper propose the use of cosmetic organosilicon polymers (commonly called silicones) for the extraction of a complex of biologically active substances contained in vegetable raw materials. It is important to note that the biological molecules do not interact with the organosilicones and, therefore, their properties are not altered after the extraction. In this work, we investigate the efficiency of several polyorganosiloxanes as extractants of vegetable raw materials (Calendula Officialis L. and Artemisia Absinthium L.) useful for the preparation of cosmetic emulsions. Specifically, the extraction studies were conducted by using polyorganosiloxanes with a single component (polydimethylsiloxane Silicone Oil 350 cSt, cyclopentasiloxane BRB CM 50, and phenyltrimethicone BRB PTM 20) as well as a mixture (PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane BRB 526, a solution of dimethiconol in cyclopentasiloxane BRB 1834, and amodimethicone BRB 1288). Compared to water and ethyl alcohol, polyorganosiloxanes are more effective in the extraction of the biologically active substances that are contained in the raw plants. Interestingly, the combination of different polyorganosiloxanes improved the extraction efficiency. The attained knowledge can be helpful in the development of a novel protocol for the formulation of emulsions appealing for cosmetic applications.

Influence of Solvents on the Antioxidant Properties of the Birch Outer Bark Extract in Cosmetic Emulsions

The goal of this study was to evaluate the influence of birch outer bark (BOB) extraction solvents on the antioxidant properties of the obtained dry extracts, which were added in cosmetic product emulsions. Extracts obtained in ethanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol and ethyl acetate as well as one purified in ethanol by means of recrystallization were used as antioxidant additives, in 30 and 60 mg·g-1 concentrations, to cosmetic water-in-oil type emulsions. It was found that raw extracts had a considerably higher antioxidant stability than purified ones, because the raw extracts showed a higher phenolic compound content. The highest stability was detected in the cosmetic sample, which had a raw BOB extract obtained in 2-propanol. At the additive concentration of 60 mg·g-1, the protection factor was 20.6 times higher than in the case of a blank sample. Among other solvents used, 2-propanol showed the best solubility for BOB extract phenolic compounds, the content of which reached 3.58 wt% from the oven dry extract. It could be concluded that raw BOB extracts act as an excellent antioxidant additive in cosmetic emulsions.

Olive Oil with Ozone-Modified Properties and Its Application

Olive oil application in the cosmetic industry may be extended by its ozonation, bringing about new oil properties and increased stability. Olive oil treated with 0.04 mole O3 or 0.10 mole O3 per 100 g oil was subjected to chemical parameters evaluation and composition scrutinizing by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and headspace solid-phase microextraction (HS-SPME) GC-MS analysis. The biological activity of refined and ozonated oil included their antimicrobial properties by the agar diffusion method and cytotoxicity by the MTT assay towards two normal (LLC-PK1, HaCaT) and two cancerous (Caco-2, HeLa) cell lines. The oils served as the basis in cosmetic emulsions. The chosen organoleptic features, preservative efficacy in a challenge test, and persistency during six months of these formulations were assessed. However, the ozonation of the olive oil resulted in a decrease in unsaturated acids; several additional compounds were detected in the ozonated oil, which positively affect the physicochemical, sensory, and functional properties of cosmetic emulsions. Emulsions based on the ozonated olive oil retain their properties longer compared to emulsions based on the refined olive oil. Ozonated oil treated with 0.10 mole O3/100 g oil allowed increasing the shelf life of the non-preserved formulation up to six months. A weak inhibitory effect against Candida albicans and Aspergillus brasiliensis was also demonstrated for this emulsion in the challenge test. Moreover, an interesting aroma, slightly enhanced antimicrobial activity against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, C. albicans, A. brasiliensis, and a lack of cytotoxicity at concentrations 625 µg mL−1 make the ozonated olive oil a promising raw material for the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries.

The Role of Solid Particles Obtained from Plant Materials in Improvement the Quality of Cosmetic Care Balms

The sensory properties of cosmetic emulsions are part of the basic properties of products such as face creams and body balms. They are extremely important parameters in the product evaluation by consumers. Cosmetics manufacturers are increasingly introducing ingredients in the form of solid particles (talc, bentonite, clay) into formulations to improve the sensory properties of products. Their addition simplifies the application of the emulsion on the skin, effects faster absorption and leaves a feeling of silky smoothness after application. During the work, we investigated solid particles of plant origin: powder from ground orange peel and oat grain. These ingredients were introduced into the formulation of the model body balms. The antioxidant and physicochemical properties of the obtained emulsions as well as the skin hydration after their application were evaluated. It has been shown that the introduction of solid plant particles increases the antioxidant properties of the emulsions and significantly improves emulsion stability and skin moisture after application.

Lavandula angustifolia PROPAGATED IN IN VITRO CULTURES ON MEDIA CONTAINING AgNPs AND AuNPs – AN ALTERNATIVE TO SYNTHETIC PRESERVATIVES IN COSMETICS

We determined the preservation properties of Lavandula angustifolia propagated on media with gold or silver nanoparticles with a particle size of 13 and 30 nm. Cosmetic emulsions prepared by using lavender tissue that was propagated on media containing AuNPs and AgNPs showed increased preservative capacities when compared with the control ones. In the case of control cosmetic emulsions, which had no added plant tissues or dehydroacetic acid and benzoic acid (DHA BA), bacterial and fungal colonies appeared after the second week of the experiment. The addition of lavender tissue propagated on media without AuNPs or AgNPs protected the tasted samples from microbial contamination; in this case, bacterial contamination was detected after 4 weeks and fungal contamination after 6 weeks. The addition of lavender tissue propagated on medium containing AgNPs with a particle size of 13 nm at a concentration of 1 mg · dm−3 prolonged the time of detection of bacteria colonies to 8 weeks (0.9) and this result was close and comparable to the effect of DHA BA. Higher concentrations of AgNPs in the culture medium, as well as a larger particle diameter (30 nm), resulted in the decreased preservative capacity of plant tissues. The presence of AuNPs in the culture media showed a positive effect on the antimicrobial activity of lavender; however, to a lesser degree than in the case of AgNPs. Disintegrated fragments of lavender tissue propagated on media containing 1 mg ∙ dm−3 AgNPs with particle size of 13 nm can be used to preserve short shelf life cosmetic emulsions.

Formulation and characterization of anti‐aging cosmetic emulsions based on collagen hydrolysate and caffeine

The goal of this work was to formulate and characterize some O/W emulsions, designed as skin anti-aging creams. The cosmetic formulations based on collagen hydrolysate, caffeine and natural ingredients (essential and vegetable oils) were evaluated organoleptically, in terms of pH, morphological, superficial and rheological properties. The rheological measurements were carried out at 23 and 32°C, and the shear stress versus shear rate ascending and descending rheograms were built, as well as the flow patterns viscosity versus shear rate. All emulsions obtained are stable at different temperatures and the pH values correspond to the skin physiological one, indicating that cosmeceuticals can be safely applied to the skin. Results from the optical microscopy analysis show that all emulsions presented a creamy and foamy appearance. The superficial profiles, quantified through contact angle at solid/liquid interface, indicated a high emulsions hydrophilicity degree. The emulsions showed a pseudoplastic and thixotropic behaviour, facilitating the flow formulations and the topical application. The flow properties were quantified according to the Power law model, and the thixotropic analysis was performed using specific descriptors as thixotropic area and thixotropic index. The designed emulsions presented physico-chemical properties adequate for cosmetic skin care product formulations.