Influence of On-Sight and Flash Climbing Styles on Advanced Climbers’ Route Completion for Bouldering

Route previewing has been established as a critical parameter in indoor climbing performance, as it could determine the success or failure in ascending the route. We addressed the effect of different types of previews on output climbing performance. Twenty-one advanced climbers (7b and 7c+ climbing grade) were required to complete 18 routes, rated at 6c, according to the French Rating Scale of Difficulty. Each climber previewed the route under three conditions: “No-previewing”, “video-model previewing”, and “real-model previewing”. Output climbing performance was assessed in terms of route completion. The results showed differences on output climbing performance between types of preview. Specifically, the climbers achieved more successful attempts at climbing to the “Top” of the wall when inspecting the route with the “real-model previewing” condition, compared to the other conditions of preview. On the contrary, the climbers displayed more failed attempts in climbing the route with the “on-sight” condition, compared to the “flash” styles (“video-model” and “real-model”). The preview of the route, including performance of a real/video-projected model manipulating climbing holds, seems to increase the opportunities to climb the boulder successfully, attuning climbers to information specifying ascending actions. Climbing coaches should reinforce the design of representative training, using flash styles, to promote movement solutions for route completion.

Innovative force sensor for indoor climbing holds – real-time measurements and data processing, design and validation

In this article, a system to measure the evolution of load in time and space during indoor climbing is described. The system is based on a set of dedicated multiaxial load cells, which measure the load on each hold of an indoor climbing wall. When the climber hangs on a hold, the load signal is read and sent to a digital acquisition and processing system. Sensor design allows for measurement of the force components applied to the climbing holds, regardless of the application point of the force on the hold. Local deformations were measured through strain gauges. Based on the electrical configuration of the strain gauges, the values of the applied forces can be computed, making the contributions to the deformation due to bending moments and torsion negligible. The sensor was designed, assuming a maximum applicable load of 200 kg without plastic deformation. The design process was based on both analytical and finite element method analyses. An experimental calibration and testing campaign was performed to validate the sensor design.

Climbing – From Extreme Sports to Therapy

Not so long ago climbing was perceived as an extremely demanding activity, intended only for an elite group, is now gaining new supporters year by year. The mass emergence of artificial (indoor) climbing walls with routes varied in different difficulty levels caused that nowadays it is a sport available for people of different ages, as well as those with disabilities. Comprehensive impact of climbing on the body aroused interest not only of trainers and teachers of physical education, but also physiotherapists, occupational therapists and psychotherapists. Therapeutic climbing is successfully used in the field of orthopaedics, psychotherapy, neurology and geriatrics, as well as an educational tool for the treatment of children and adolescents with hyperactivity, attention deficit or drug problems. It can also be used as a form of prevention of civilization diseases and a way of dealing with mental trauma caused by war and difficult living conditions.

Characterizing Steady-State Cardiovascular and Metabolic Responses of Recreational Climbers During Motorized Treadmill Climbing

Given that the popularity of indoor climbing exceeds that of outdoor climbing, health professionals need a better understanding of how these indoor climbing activities can be used to prescribe exercise. The primary goal of this study was to characterize both cardiovascular and metabolic responses of motorized treadmill climbing with respect to thresholds for heart rate as a percent of maximum (%HR) and metabolic equivalents (METs). Additionally, this study used these data to generate MET and energy expenditure (EE) prediction equations for prescription purposes. Methods: Twenty non-competitive recreational climbers (16 men; 4 women) were recruited to climb six combinations of “slow” and “fast” climbing speed (4.6-9.1 m/min) across three treadmill grades: vertical (90°), overhang or negative incline (85-80°), positive incline (95-100°). A portable metabolic system was worn by climbers during testing to measure HR and oxygen uptake (VO2), the latter of which was converted to EE and METs using standard formulae. Mean HR% and MET values were compared to intensity thresholds (65%, or 3 and 6 METs) using one-sample t-tests, while standard multiple regression techniques were used to predict EE and METs from a pool of variables (climbing treadmill speed and grade, body mass, gender. Results: HR% (70.0-85.4%) was >65% at all test conditions (P<0.01) and mean MET values exceeded the 3-MET threshold and was ?6-MET threshold at all conditions (6.0-8.5 METs; P<0.01). Multiple prediction equations for both EE (R2=0.81; SEE=±0.83 kcals/min; P<0.001) and METs (R2=0.73; SEE=±0.6 METs; P<0.001) included speed, grade, and gender. Conclusions: The vigorous metabolic intensity for motorized treadmill climbing (?6 METs) in this study was clearly sufficient to promote positive health and metabolic fitness in healthy adults. In addition, health professionals can use the EE and MET prediction equations to prescribe specific motorized treadmill climbing intensities to clients, as well as generate climbing-specific testing protocols.