Ensemble models from machine learning: an example of wave runup and coastal dune erosion

After decades of study and significant data collection of time-varying swash on sandy beaches, there is no single deterministic prediction scheme for wave runup that eliminates prediction error – even bespoke, locally tuned predictors present scatter when compared to observations. Scatter in runup prediction is meaningful and can be used to create probabilistic predictions of runup for a given wave climate and beach slope. This contribution demonstrates this using a data-driven Gaussian process predictor; a probabilistic machine-learning technique. The runup predictor is developed using 1 year of hourly wave runup data (8328 observations) collected by a fixed lidar at Narrabeen Beach, Sydney, Australia. The Gaussian process predictor accurately predicts hourly wave runup elevation when tested on unseen data with a root-mean-squared error of 0.18 m and bias of 0.02 m. The uncertainty estimates output from the probabilistic GP predictor are then used practically in a deterministic numerical model of coastal dune erosion, which relies on a parameterization of wave runup, to generate ensemble predictions. When applied to a dataset of dune erosion caused by a storm event that impacted Narrabeen Beach in 2011, the ensemble approach reproduced ∼85 % of the observed variability in dune erosion along the 3.5 km beach and provided clear uncertainty estimates around these predictions. This work demonstrates how data-driven methods can be used with traditional deterministic models to develop ensemble predictions that provide more information and greater forecasting skill when compared to a single model using a deterministic parameterization – an idea that could be applied more generally to other numerical models of geomorphic systems.

Ensemble models from machine learning: an example of wave runup and coastal dune erosion

After decades of study and significant data collection of time-varying swash on sandy beaches, there is no single deterministic prediction scheme for wave runup that eliminates prediction error – even bespoke, locally tuned predictors present scatter when compared to observations. Scatter in runup prediction is meaningful and can be used to create probabilistic predictions of runup for a given wave climate and beach slope. This contribution demonstrates this using a data-driven Gaussian process predictor; a probabilistic machine learning technique. The runup predictor is developed using one year of hourly wave runup data (8328 observations) collected by a fixed LIDAR at Narrabeen Beach, Sydney, Australia. The Gaussian process predictor accurately predicts hourly wave runup elevation when tested on unseen data with a root mean-squared-error of 0.18 m and bias of 0.02 m. The uncertainty estimates output from the probabilistic GP predictor are then used practically in a deterministic numerical model of coastal dune erosion, which relies on a parameterization of wave runup, to generate ensemble predictions. When applied to a dataset of dune erosion caused by a storm event that impacted Narrabeen Beach in 2011, the ensemble approach reproduced ~ 85 % of the observed variability in dune erosion along the 3.5 km beach and provided clear uncertainty estimates around these predictions. This work demonstrates how data-driven methods can be used with traditional deterministic models to develop ensemble predictions that provide more information and greater forecasting skill when compared to a single model using a deterministic parameterization; an idea that could be applied more generally to other numerical models of geomorphic systems.

MODELING BEACH PROFILE EVOLUTION – A STATISTICAL–PROCESS BASED APPROACH

This paper presents a new combined statistical-process based approach for modeling storm driven, cross-shore beach profile response. The approach discussed here involves combining detailed statistical modeling of offshore storm data and a process based morphodynamic model (XBeach), to assess the medium to long-term morphodynamic response of cross-shore beach profiles. Up until now the use of process-based models has been curtailed at the storm event timescale. This approach allows inclusion of the post-storm recovery, in addition to individual event impacts, thus allowing longer-term predictions. The calibration of XBeach for modeling, both, storm induced erosion and post- storm recovery, taking Narrabeen Beach, NSW, Australia as a case study; and the approach used to combine XBeach with the statistical framework to develop the approach are discussed.