Method of Predicting the Crimp of Jacquard-Woven Fabrics

The aim of this study was to investigate the distribution of crimp in new jacquard fabric structures (in which one-layer and two-layer weaves are combined) in the fabric width and to create a method of crimp prediction. It was established that crimp was around 18.80% and changed within the limits of errors, i.e., a range of only ~4%, in the fabric width. It can therefore be said that the warp crimp was constant in the fabric width. Because the warp crimp of jacquard fabric changed insignificantly (within the limits of errors), it can be stated that the fabric-setting parameters and structural solutions were chosen and matched correctly, and such fabric can be woven on any jacquard weaving loom.

Pigment mixing effect realized with pre-dyed opaque yarns for Jacquard textile design development

In modern Jacquard weaving, the application of yarn color variety is limited to electronic Jacquard machinery and realizing a wide scope of weave colors can be challenging. Therefore, when reproducing a pictorial image with a small yarn variety, artwork colors are defined by a CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, and black) system and its primary color data are used to associate with weave structures. In alignment with a CMYK pattern layout, shaded weave structures are incorporated to expand the accessible gamut of weave colors and natural shading is realized by different cover factors in the warp and weft. The mixing effect of CMYK yarns is intended for resolving the technical limitations of current digital Jacquard weaving. In this study, quantitative research is designed to examine four yarn mixing effects for which pairs of CMYK yarns are superimposed (e.g., [C]+[M], [C]+[Y], [M]+[Y], [C]+[K], [M]+[K], [Y]+[K]) and 90 different weave colors are produced in six groups. Once they are formatted in a standardized size, weave samples are measured by a spectrophotometer and analyzed by three coordinates ( L*, a*, and b*) of a CIELAB color system. As shown by the analysis results, the weave colors bear not only varied brightness, hue, and chroma alternations, but also a great similarity to the pigment mixing effect. In application of the color mixing effect, a new way of woven color presentation is achieved and introduced as a new development of Jacquard design.

Innovation of Creative Lady Wear Based on Origami and Jacquard

This paper presents a research of women clothing style, pattern design, and fabric by developing origami culture and double faced jacquard weaving. Four kinds of clothing styles are researched by folding fabric according some origami concept. Based on the developed folded garment structures, some positioned patterns are studied for modern advanced fashion design purposes. In the technology aspect, jacquard technology is used in this study. Jacquard technology uses double stitching structure which face and back patterns are not the same. The face fabric is colorful with pure silk while the back fabric is composite of twill and eight weft satin pattern with silk and cashmere yarn. The final example presents a combination creation of garment and fabric. The method and design of this type of creation requires a high integration of aesthetic and technical aspects, therefore a high added value would be achieved.