Strategizing Alternative Visual Artworks Medium through Upcycle Textile

This research aims to provide a procedural process of recycled textiles as an alternative medium in visual artwork. In this study, recycled textiles are not processed to become fibers. However, textile waste will be segregated, selected, sorted, cut and combined as new materials through vernacular techniques. The study is divided into a Recycled Textile Analysis Innovation (RTAI) and a Recycled Textile Production (RTP) for visual artwork adapting from Multiple Creative Talent by Calvin W. Tylor. The significance of this study will be showcased through the 'Lestari Perca' exhibition to promote awareness in recycling textile through art-making. Keywords: Recycle textile; alternative medium; visual artwork. eISSN: 2398-4287 © 2021. The Authors. Published for AMER ABRA cE-Bs by e-International Publishing House, Ltd., UK. This is an open access article under the CC BYNC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). Peer–review under responsibility of AMER (Association of Malaysian Environment-Behaviour Researchers), ABRA (Association of Behavioural Researchers on Asians) and cE-Bs (Centre for Environment-Behaviour Studies), Faculty of Architecture, Planning & Surveying, Universiti Teknologi MARA, Malaysia. DOI: https://doi.org/10.21834/ebpj.v6iSI6.3043

Textile material from Old Dongola: preliminary observations on trade and sartorial practices in the Ottoman period

The paper presents the textile material retrieved from the so-called House of the Mekk, which appears as one of the most important compounds (by size and intricate plan) of the Funj period, established in the Old Dongola citadel. The general typology of the textiles, representative of an urban settlement, is presented and two study-cases (piece-dyed blue cottons and fabrics decorated with plaid-effect pattern in white and blue) are further discussed. The textile analysis is complemented by written sources of various kinds (court registers, traveler's accounts) to provide information about trade routes and goods and also to offer a preliminary picture of the sartorial practices of the elite at Old Dongola during the Ottoman period.

Functional Analysis of Garments in 18th Century Burials from St. Michael’s Crypt in Vienna, Austria

The Michaelergruft in Vienna (St. Michael’s crypt), Austria, is located near the imperial palace Vienna and has been used between 1560 and 1784 by the local nobility of the city center in Vienna. The inventory of a large number of coffins has been preserved due to favorite environmental conditions, it offers the possibility to study specific details about the funeral customs of the 17th and 18th century in Central Europe. Selected burials dating to the 18th century from the Michaelergruft serve as case studies for developing new theoretical and methodological approaches in investigating the textiles and garments found in the coffins. Garments found in crypts usually are analysed due to costume history, aspects of conservation and preparation. Also textile analysis and modern analytical methods are applied to the material. In discussing the garments from St. Michael’s crypt, questions about the interpretation of the costume arise such as if they are “normal” daily life (or festivy) garments or specific funeral costumes. In the following paper criteria are discussed which enable to distinguish between “functional garments” worn also in daily life, “adapter garments” (daily life clothing that has been re-sewn, cut or altered to be used as garment for the dead), and “funeral costumes” that have been deliberately made.

PENGEMBANGAN BAHAN AJAR PADA PELATIHAN MEMBATIK BERBASIS BUDAYA LOKAL

AbstrakPenelitian ini berdasarkan pengembangan bahan ajar yang digunakan untuk pelatihan membatik pada program PPPUD UNP 2019, dengan judul “Pengembangan Kerajinan Batik Berbasis Budaya Lokal di Kabupaten Agam Sumatera Barat, Menuju Pasar Global”. Hal ini dilaksanakan, seiring dengan usaha pemerintah daerah yang mendorong industri batik tumbuh dan berkembang di Sumatera Barat, salah satunya adalah UMKM Batik Minang Alam Takambang yang berlokasi di Nagari Batu Palano Kec. Sungai Puar Kab. Agam, Propinsi Sumatera Barat yang menjadi mitra dalam PPPUD UNP. Sebagai unggulan daerah UMKM Batik Minang Alam Takambang harus didorong untuk dapat berkembang sama dengan batik lainnya yang telah dahulu maju di pulau Jawa. Metode dalam mengembangkan bahan ajar ini adalah Research and Development dengan model penelitian 4D yang terdiri dari tahap pendefinisian, tahap perencanaan, tahap pengembangan dan tahap penyebaran. Bahan ajar yang dikembangkan dianggap telah dapat digunakan oleh peserta pelatihan membatik dalam proses belajar, berdasarkan hasil penelitian data uji validitas dan praktikalitas, dengan hasil 83,35% kategori sangat valid. Sedangkan data uji praktikalitas dengan hasil 85,89% kategori sangat praktis. Dapat disimpulkan bahwa bahan ajar batik tulis layak digunakan sebagai media pembelajaran pada mata kuliah analisis tekstil.Kata Kunci: bahan ajar, pelatihan, membatik, budaya lokal.AbstractThis research is based on the development of teaching materials used for batik training in the 2019 PPP UNP PPPUD program, entitled "Development of Local Culture-Based Batik Crafts in Agam Regency, West Sumatra, Towards a Global Market". This was carried out, along with the efforts of the local government to encourage the batik industry to grow and develop in West Sumatra, one of which was the Minangkabau Batik Minang Alam Takambang located in Nagari Batu Palano Kec. Sungai Puar Kab. Agam, West Sumatra Province which is a partner in PPPUD UNP. As the pre-eminent regional SME Batik Minang Alam Takambang should be encouraged to be able to develop together with other batik that had previously advanced on the island of Java. The method in developing this teaching material is Research and Development with the 4D research model consisting of the defining stage, the planning stage, the development stage and the deployment stage. Teaching material developed is considered to be able to be used by batik training participants in the learning process, based on the results of the validity and practicality test data, with the results of 83.35% the category is very valid. While the practicality test data with the results of 85.89% is very practical category. It can be concluded that the written batik teaching material is fit to be used as a learning medium in textile analysis courses.Keywords: teaching materials, training, batik, local culture.

Probability-Based Validation of the Forensic Method "Microscopic Analysis of Textile Fibers"

The results of validation of the method “Microscopic analysis of textile fibers” used in forensic fiber examination are presented. An attempt is made to estimate reliability of testing of this method numerically by the proportions of right and false results and credibility ratio.The testing method under consideration consists in establishing a set of external characteristics of natural and chemical textile fibers: color, peculiarities of coloration, morphological features, presence/absence of a matting agent. These generic characteristics are used in forensic textile analysis. As the objects of testing fiber samples from comparative collection of a forensic fiber laboratory were used. Four experts participated in the experiment independently examining eleven fiber samples by eleven external characteristics for a week.A low (2,2 %) rate of false results in relation to the total number of tests was established as well as the low (less than 3,0 %) rate of each expert’s false results. The probability of the right results of characteristics’ assessment is 30 times higher than the probability of false results.The results of the experiment permit the conclusion that the method is suitable to be used in forensic fiber examination when dealing with various tasks: classification, identification, situational and diagnostic.