scholarly journals STATISTICAL ANALYSIS OF WAVE RECORDS

2000 ◽  
Vol 1 (4) ◽  
pp. 2
Author(s):  
R. R. Putz
Keyword(s):  
Wave Activity ◽  
Spectral Energy ◽  
Wave System ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Surface Time ◽  
Individual Wave ◽  
Time Histories ◽  
Statistical Regularities ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
System Characteristics

The establishment of quantitative relationships between recorded wave-system characteristics and other phenomena requires numerical description of the wave record. Current concepts applied to time histories of wave activity at a point are discussed. Characteristic statistical regularities found in wave measurements are described. Examples given show the application of statistical techniques' to the description of wave systems in terms of the distribution of spectral energy as well as the distributions of "individual" wave heights and periods. Results from the prediction, from one point to another, of surface time histories illustrate the application of approximate spectral information.

scholarly journals Late Pleistocene Boulder Slumps Eroded from a Basalt Shoreline at El Confital Beach on Gran Canaria (Canary Islands, Spain)

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (2) ◽  
pp. 138
Author(s):  
Inés Galindo ◽  
Markes E. Johnson ◽  
Esther Martín-González ◽  
Carmen Romero ◽  
Juana Vegas ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Late Pleistocene ◽  
Historical Record ◽  
Three Dimensions ◽  
Marine Biota ◽  
Gran Canaria ◽  
Basaltic Rocks ◽  
Individual Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Scientific Value ◽  
The Impact

This study examines the role of North Atlantic storms degrading a Late Pleistocene rocky shoreline formed by basaltic rocks overlying hyaloclastite rocks on a small volcanic peninsula connected to Gran Canaria in the central region of the Canary Archipelago. A conglomerate dominated by large, ellipsoidal to angular boulders eroded from an adjacent basalt flow was canvassed at six stations distributed along 800 m of the modern shore at El Confital, on the outskirts of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. A total of 166 individual basalt cobbles and boulders were systematically measured in three dimensions, providing the database for analyses of variations in clast shape and size. The goal of this study was to apply mathematical equations elaborated after Nott (2003) and subsequent refinements in order to estimate individual wave heights necessary to lift basalt blocks from the layered and joint-bound sea cliffs at El Confital. On average, wave heights in the order of 4.2 to 4.5 m are calculated as having impacted the Late Pleistocene rocky coastline at El Confital, although the largest boulders in excess of 2 m in diameter would have required larger waves for extraction. A review of the fossil marine biota associated with the boulder beds confirms a littoral to very shallow water setting correlated in time with Marine Isotope Stage 5e (Eemian Stage) approximately 125,000 years ago. The historical record of major storms in the regions of the Canary and Azorean islands indicates that events of hurricane strength were likely to have struck El Confital in earlier times. Due to its high scientific value, the outcrop area featured in this study is included in the Spanish Inventory of Geosites and must be properly protected and managed to ensure conservation against the impact of climate change foreseen in coming years.

An Idealization of Wave Scatter Diagram for Spectral Fatigue Analysis

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Min Han Oh ◽  
Ki Myung Lee ◽  
Young Sik Jang
Keyword(s):  
Fatigue Analysis ◽  
Scatter Diagram ◽  
Analysis Method ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Environmental Loads ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Spectral Models ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights

A spectral fatigue analysis method is most popularly applied for the detailed design of FPSOs. As the environmental loads at the installation site are directly calculated in the spectral analysis, this method gives the most reliable results although it needs much time-consuming works to fully reflect the environmental loads. As the technology of wave measurements advances, the measured wave data increase. Also their spectral models are very complicated because these include many wave components such as swells and wind seas. Since much time and effort are needed to treat these enormous and complicated wave data for the spectral fatigue analysis, a rational idealization of wave data is definitely required. In this paper, wave scatter diagram at Offshore Nigeria was reviewed and their idealization method was proposed. The influence level of each sea state of the wave scatter diagram was identified considering the fatigue damage levels estimated from the significant wave heights and dominant fatigue load RAOs. The sea states giving small fatigue damages were lumped symmetrically by merging or disregarding while those giving large fatigue damages were kept as original. For the validation of this method, the comparisons of dominant fatigue loads and representative fatigue damages were presented for the idealized wave scatter diagram and the original one. From these comparison works, it was confirmed that the idealized wave scatter diagram gives reliable results with reduced amount of calculation work.

Numerical Simulation and Experimental Validation on the Surf-Riding and Broaching of a Fishing Vessel

2016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Liwei Yu ◽  
Ning Ma ◽  
Sheming Fan ◽  
Peiyuan Feng ◽  
Xiechong Gu
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Simulation ◽  
Numerical Simulations ◽  
Model Test ◽  
Periodic Motion ◽  
Following Seas ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Model Experiments ◽  
Time Histories ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Surf Riding

Model experiments and numerical simulations on the surf-riding and broaching in following seas of a 42.5m long purse seiner are conducted. Firstly, the free running model experiments with various ship speeds and wave heights are performed in the towing tank to reproduce the phenomena of surf-riding and broaching. Then, the 6-DOF weakly nonlinear unified model is applied to simulate the motions of the purse seiner with the same cases as the model experiments. Through the comparison between results of model test and numerical simulation, the occurrence conditions of periodic motion, surf-riding and broaching are roughly determined. Finally, it is found that although it is difficult for the numerical simulations to get the same time histories as model tests, the modes of motion (periodic motion, surf-riding or broaching) obtained from the numerical simulations agree well qualitatively and quantitatively in part with the model test results.

scholarly journals Wave measurements with a modified HydroBall® buoy using different GNSS processing strategies

GEOMATICA ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 73 (1) ◽  
pp. 1-14
Author(s):  
Benoit Crépeau Gendron ◽  
Mohamed Ali Chouaer ◽  
Rock Santerre ◽  
Mathieu Rondeau ◽  
Nicolas Seube
Keyword(s):  
Precise Point Positioning ◽  
Reference Station ◽  
Controlled Environment ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Wave Measurement ◽  
Processing Strategies ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Kinematic Ppp ◽  
Gnss Processing

One of the CIDCO’s (The Interdisciplinary Center for the Development of Ocean Mapping) HydroBall® GNSS buoys has been specifically adapted to evaluate its potential for wave measurement at centimeter accuracy level. Multiple GNSS processing strategies were tested, namely PPK (Post-Processed Kinematic), PPP (Precise Point Positioning), and TRP (Time Relative Positioning). Experiments were carried out in a hydraulic flume where waves of different amplitudes and periods were generated in a controlled environment. The wave heights obtained by the various GNSS solutions were compared with ultrasonic gauge measurements placed along the flume. The best results were obtained with the PPK and TRP solutions with root mean squared (RMS) values of 2 cm (on average). The main advantages of the TRP solution are that it does not require any reference station nearby (contrary to PPK) or precise ephemerides (required by PPP). A sinusoidal regression comparison of the wave height time series allowed determination of the wave period and amplitude with mean errors of 0.06 s and 0.8 cm, respectively.

scholarly journals Diagnosing the Horizontal Propagation of Rossby Wave Packets along the Midlatitude Waveguide

2017 ◽  
Vol 145 (8) ◽  
pp. 3247-3264 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gabriel Wolf ◽  
Volkmar Wirth
Keyword(s):  
Wave Packet ◽  
Rossby Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Packets ◽  
Wave Activity ◽  
Severe Weather ◽  
Robust Methods ◽  
Misleading Information ◽  
Individual Wave ◽  
Wave Activity Flux

It has been suggested that upper-tropospheric Rossby wave packets propagating along the midlatitude waveguide may play a role for triggering severe weather. This motivates the search for robust methods to detect and track Rossby wave packets and to diagnose their properties. In the framework of several observed cases, this paper compares different methods that have been proposed for these tasks, with an emphasis on horizontal propagation and on a particular formulation of a wave activity flux previously suggested by Takaya and Nakamura. The utility of this flux is compromised by the semigeostrophic nature of upper-tropospheric Rossby waves, but this problem can partly be overcome by a semigeostrophic coordinate transformation. The wave activity flux allows one to obtain information from a single snapshot about the meridional propagation, in particular propagation from or into polar and subtropical latitudes, as well as about the onset of wave breaking. This helps to clarify the dynamics of individual wave packets in cases where other, more conventional methods provide ambiguous or even misleading information. In some cases, the “true dynamics” of the Rossby wave packet turns out to be more complex than apparent from the more conventional diagnostics, and this may have important implications for the predictability of the wave packet.

scholarly journals WAVE STATISTICS ALONG THE NORTHERN COAST OF EGYPT

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 5
Author(s):  
M. Manohar ◽  
I.E. Mobarek ◽  
A. Morcos ◽  
H. Rahal
Keyword(s):  
Nile Delta ◽  
Spectral Band ◽  
Northern Coast ◽  
Wave Statistics ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Narrow Spectral Band ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights ◽  
Nile Delta Coast ◽  
Comprehensive Study

As a forerunner of a comprehensive study of wave and energy climate of the Nile Delta coast covering a period of more than 50 years, wave measurements taken in 3 locations along the coast in the year 1972 were statistically analysed. Shortcut methods based on statistical approach were used to analyse the wave records enabling quicker analysis. Spectral analysis of the wave records indicates narrow spectral band similar to Raleigh distribution. The histograms and frequency distribution curves of significant wave heights, and the relationships between various statistical prarameters such as H , H,,,„, H,,„ and H also max 1/10' 1/3 rms agree closely with Raleigh distribution curves and parameters enabling the use of Raleigh distribution function in subsequent studies. Finally since the wave characteristics and wave energy climates are most important in the analysis of coastline changes, they are drawn from the data obtained from the analysis.

Global Laser Rangefinder Profilometry: Initial Test and Uncertainty Analysis

2006 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jason B. Carneal ◽  
Paisan Atsavapranee
Keyword(s):  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Laser Rangefinder ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Surface Ship ◽  
Measuring Surface ◽  
Calm Water ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Surface Profiles ◽  
Probe Measurements

Global Laser Rangefinder Profilometry (GLRP) is a novel optical technique for instantaneous measurement of complex three-dimensional surfaces. A functional GLRP system has been constructed in the Maneuvering and Seakeeping Basin (MASK) at the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division (NSWCCD). The system is capable of measuring surface height displacements over 800 measurement points at 30 Hz. The MASK GLRP system was used to measure the surface profiles of large waves produced by wave-makers in the MASK and bow waves generated by a surface ship remote-controlled model (RCM). Several large wave measurements were performed at various wave heights and compared to sonic probe measurements. The large wave measurements were found to be consistent with sonic probe measurements to within 5%. The results from the large wave measurements and RCM model bow wave measurements are presented and discussed. Data was collected in calm water to quantify sources of error, including optical jitter. The random error of the GLRP system is estimated at approximately 1.6 mm. The purpose of this work was to test the ability of the GLRP system for use in tests commonly performed at NSWCCD.

GENERATION OF A PAIR OF SURFACE TIME HISTORIES FOR JAKARTA USED FOR EARTHQUAKE RESISTANCE DESIGN OF INFRASTRUCTURES

2015 ◽  
Vol 77 (11) ◽  
Author(s):  
B.M. Hutapea ◽  
M. Asrurifak ◽  
Hendriyawan Hendriyawan ◽  
Masyhur Irsyam
Keyword(s):  
Ground Surface ◽  
Time History ◽  
Hazard Maps ◽  
Surface Time ◽  
History Analysis ◽  
Earthquake Design ◽  
Time Histories ◽  
Design Loads ◽  
Dynamic Time ◽  
The Impact

It is not the earthquake but the collapse of the building and infrastructure that will cause the damage and the loss of human lives. To mitigate these hazards, the building and infrastructure need to be designed such that will not collapse due to earthquake. This paper presents the procedure for generating time histories at ground surface for Jakarta area. Required data to generate these modified time histories were extracted from the Team for Revision of Seismic Hazard Maps of Indonesia 2010. The results are used as input motions in dynamic time history analysis for predicting earthquake design loads for infrastructures, such as bridges such that those structures can be designed to bear the impact of an earthquake and prevent collapse

scholarly journals Comparison of HF Radar Fields of Directional Wave Spectra Against In Situ Measurements at Multiple Locations

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (8) ◽  
pp. 271 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guiomar Lopez ◽  
Daniel C. Conley
Keyword(s):  
Grid Cell ◽  
Hf Radar ◽  
Spectral Energy ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Inversion Algorithm ◽  
Heterogeneous Information ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
Radar Wave

The coastal zone hosts a great number of activities that require knowledge of the spatial characteristics of the wave field, which in coastal seas can be highly heterogeneous. Information of this type can be obtained from HF radars, which offer attractive performance characteristics in terms of temporal and spatial resolution. This paper presents the validation of radar-derived fields of directional wave spectra. These were retrieved from measurements collected with an HF radar system specifically deployed for wave measurement, using an established inversion algorithm. Overall, the algorithm reported accurate estimates of directional spectra, whose main distinctive characteristic was that the spectral energy was typically spread over a slightly broader range of frequencies and directions than in their in situ-measured counterparts. Two errors commonly reported in previous studies, namely the overestimation of wave heights and noise related to short measurement periods, were not observed in our results. The maximum wave height recorded by two in situ devices differed by 30 cm on average from the radar-measured values, and with the exception of the wave spreading, the standard deviations of the radar wave parameters were between 3% and 20% of those obtained with the in situ datasets, indicating the two were similarly grouped around their means. At present, the main drawback of the method is the high quality signal required to perform the inversion. This is in part responsible for a reduced data return, which did not exceed 55% at any grid cell over the eight-month period studied here.

scholarly journals WAVE CLIMATE ANALYSIS FOR ENGINEERING PURPOSE

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 2 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hans H. Dette ◽  
Alfred Fuhrboter
Keyword(s):  
Wave Climate ◽  
Incoming Wave ◽  
Offshore Area ◽  
The North ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Wind Velocities ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
The North Sea ◽  
One Year ◽  
Climate Analysis

The North Sea (Fig. 1) is known as a random sea with depths in the southern part between 40 m and 100 m so that in contrary to the Atlantic and Pacific coastlines deep sea wave conditions do not exist. After four years of comprehensive wave measurements in the offshore area of the Island of Sylt near the Danish border a general analysis of the wave climate in that region was possible. In this paper results and suggestions will be presented under the aspect of replacing qualitative judgements by quantitative statements which are derived from the knowledge of the adjacent wave climate. Because the wave action varies from year to year a general time unit is not advisable for the evaluation of shore processes; therefore the time scale should be substituted by the integral of incoming wave energy occurring after a certain time. The investigated method of expressing the total energy of one season or one year in the electrical unit Kilowatthour (kWh) per meter (m) width of shoreline could prove in future as a feasible way of classifying the irregular seasonal and yearly wave intensities. It is further shown that wave measurements over a period of several years can be sufficient for the investigation of correlations between the wind velocities occurring from all directions and the resulting wave heights. In case of satisfying correlation factors it will then be possible to carry out feedback operations for periods from which only records of wind velocities and directions are available and even to hindcast the wave heights for certain not yet measured wind velocities.

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