scholarly journals SEDIMENT TRANSPORT ON NEARLY-PRISMATIC BEACHES

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 128
Author(s):  
Marcel J.F. Stive ◽  
J.A. Roelvink
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Recent Progress ◽  
Dynamic Modelling ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Quantitative Modelling ◽  
Obliquely Incident ◽  
Current Systems ◽  
Profile Development

Recent progress in the quantitative modelling of the undertow has stimulated the modelling of cross-shore sediment transport. More so than before it seems now possible to attempt the dynamic modelling of beach profile development. Also, integration of dynamic cross-shore sediment transport formulations in horizontally two-dimensional models for watermotion and sediment transport has recently been suggested. This seems to be a first step of integrating depth-averaged 2DH-modelling with 2DV-profile- modelling. Here an overview is given of these developments and the understanding gained sofar of the several current systems and the induced sediment transport and morphology that are found in the situation of random waves normally and obliquely incident on beaches which vary not or only slowly alongshore.

scholarly journals BEACH PROFILES AND ON-OFFSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 67 ◽  
Author(s):  
Akira Watanabe ◽  
Yoshihiko Riho ◽  
Kiyoshi Horikawa
Keyword(s):  
Shear Stress ◽  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Laboratory Test ◽  
Test Data ◽  
Critical Shear Stress ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Bottom Shear Stress ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Sloping Beach

The on-offshore sediment transport due to waves on a sloping beach is studied by analyzing the laboratory test data on two-dimensional beach deformation. The net rates of sediment transport both inside and outside the breaker zone are evaluated from beach profile changes and are related to the nondimensional bottom shear stress or the Shields parameter. The importance of the critical shear stress and of asymmetrical to-and-fro water partical motion near the bottom is pointed out.

scholarly journals EFFECTS OF A VERTICAL SEAWALL ON PROFILE RESPONSE

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 111 ◽  
Author(s):  
Michael R. Barnett ◽  
Hsiang Wang
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Break Point ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Limited Extent ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Temporal Profile ◽  
Recovery Response ◽  
Transport Patterns

An attempt is made to determine beach profile response due to the presence of a vertical seawall placed in various cross-shore positions, and to examine the differences between natural beaches and seawall-backed beaches in response to normally incident wave attack. The investigation was mainly restricted to two-dimensional profile response under erosive wave conditions, with beach recovery response monitored to a limited extent. Spatial and temporal profile response was investigated by examining time-series profile configuration, volumetric changes, sediment transport patterns, and quasiequilibrium profile configuration. Additionally, dominant profile features such as the break point and reflection bars (as well as scour at the toe of the seawall-backed profiles) were observed and quantified.

scholarly journals SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND BEACH TRANSFORMATION

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 88 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tomoya Shibayama ◽  
Kiyoshi Horikawa
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Field Investigations ◽  
Transport Calculation ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Profile Change

Laboratory and field investigations were performed in order to formulate a predictive model of two-dimensional beach profile change. The observed transport was classified into six types, and transport formulas were deduced for each type based on a microscale description of sediment movement caused by wave action. A numerical model of two-dimensional beach transformation was then developed. Beach profile changes calculated with the model were then compared with the laboratory results. The model was found to give reasonable results except in the vicinity of the wave plunging point. The sediment transport calculation is based on a sinusoidal velocity profile. The model appeares to give good results as long as the wave motion can be reasonably approximated by linear wave theory.

A numerical model for beach profile development

1985 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
pp. 231-234 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Swain ◽  
J. R. Houston
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Numerical Model ◽  
Key Words ◽  
Laboratory Tests ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Time Dependent ◽  
Water Level Fluctuations ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Sediment Size ◽  
Profile Development

A time-dependent numerical model that calculates beach profile development due to offshore sediment transport is developed. The model allows variable wave conditions, water level fluctuations due to tide, arbitrary bathymetry, and sediment size. The accuracy of the model is tested by comparison of calculations with laboratory and with field data. The agreement between calculated and measured beach profiles is good. Key words: numerical model, beach profile, laboratory tests, field data.

Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves, wave groups and random waves

2011 ◽  
Vol 58 (2) ◽  
pp. 214-227 ◽  
Author(s):  
T.E. Baldock ◽  
J.A. Alsina ◽  
I. Caceres ◽  
D. Vicinanza ◽  
P. Contestabile ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Swash Zone ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Wave Groups

scholarly journals A MODEL FOR OFFSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 97 ◽  
Author(s):  
M.J.F. Stive ◽  
J.A. Battjes
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Equilibrium State ◽  
Return Flow ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Water Motion ◽  
First Approximation

Observation of the two-dimensional breaking of random waves on a beach suggests that under conditions of active surf an important mechanism in the process of offshore sediment transport is the transport by the undertow or return flow, induced by the breaking of waves. It is found that a model incorporating this mechanism exclusively is able to describe the local sediment transport and the resulting bottom variation of a beach under random wave attack to a first approximation. A laboratory verification is made based on measurements of both the dynamics of the water motion and the bottom profile. Finally, a realistic equilibrium state is shown to result from the model

scholarly journals ONSHORE-OFFSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT NUMERICAL MODEL

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 84
Author(s):  
A. Swain ◽  
J.R. Houston
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Numerical Model ◽  
Water Level ◽  
Storm Surge ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Water Level Fluctuations ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Sediment Size ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Profile Development

A numerical model is presented for calculating beach profile development due to offshore sediment transport and tested with laboratory and field data. The model allows variable wave conditions, water level fluctuations due to tide and storm surge, arbitrary bathymetry, and arbitrary sediment size. The agreement between calculated and measured beach profile erosion is good.

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