BEACH PROFILES AND ON-OFFSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT
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The on-offshore sediment transport due to waves on a sloping beach is studied by analyzing the laboratory test data on two-dimensional beach deformation. The net rates of sediment transport both inside and outside the breaker zone are evaluated from beach profile changes and are related to the nondimensional bottom shear stress or the Shields parameter. The importance of the critical shear stress and of asymmetrical to-and-fro water partical motion near the bottom is pointed out.
2020 ◽
Vol 35
(1)
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pp. 15-26
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2020 ◽