scholarly journals SHALLOW-WATER SPECTRAL WAVE MODELING

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 37
Author(s):  
Robert E. Jensen

A parametric shallow-water spectral wave modeling technique is developed and is tested against extensive field measurements of wave height, period and spectral shape. The wave model considers wave growth and finite water depth mechanisms such as spectral wave shoaling, wave-bottom interactions, wave-wave interactions and wave breaking. The key to this approach is that the resulting wave conditions are provided by transformation mechanisms rather than transforming spectral components during wave propagation. Thus long-term wave hindcasts can be performed economically without the loss in accuracy.

Author(s):  
Mustafa Kemal Ozalp ◽  
Serdar Beji

For realistic wave simulations in the nearshore zone besides nonlinear interactions, the dissipative effects of wave breaking must also be taken into account. This paper presents the applications of a spectral nonlinear wave model with a dissipative breaking mechanism introduced by Beji and Nadaoka (1997). Results obtained for spectral components are converted to the time series and compared with Beji and Battjes' (1993) laboratory measurements and the field measurements of Nakamura and Katoh (1992) in the surf zone. While the model predicts the spilling-type breaking of irregular waves in acceptable agreement with the measurements in time domain, the agreement is unsatisfactory for plunging-type breakers.


Water ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (11) ◽  
pp. 1566
Author(s):  
Barbara Proença ◽  
Florian Ganthy ◽  
Richard Michalet ◽  
Aldo Sottolichio

Field measurements of bed elevation and related wave events were performed within a tidal marsh, on two cordgrass species, Spartina anglica (exotic) and Spartina maritima (native), in the Bay of Arcachon (SW France). Bed- and water-level time series were used to infer on the sediment behavior patterns from short to long term. A consistent response was found between the bed-level variation and the wave forcing, with erosion occurring during storms and accretion during low energy periods. Such behavior was observed within the two species, but the magnitude of bed-level variation was higher within the native than the exotic Spartina. These differences, in the order of millimeters, were explained by the opposite allocation of biomass of the two species. On the long term, the sedimentation/erosion patterns were dominated by episodic storm events. A general sediment deficit was observed on the site, suggested by an overall bed-level decrease registered within both species. However, further verification of within species variation needs to be considered when drawing conclusions. Despite possible qualitative limitations of the experimental design, due to single point survey, this work provides original and considerable field data to the understanding the different species ability to influence bed sediment stabilization and their potential to build marsh from the mudflat pioneer stage. Such information is valuable for coastal management in the context of global change.


2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Evan Miles ◽  
Michael McCarthy ◽  
Amaury Dehecq ◽  
Marin Kneib ◽  
Stefan Fugger ◽  
...  

AbstractGlaciers in High Mountain Asia generate meltwater that supports the water needs of 250 million people, but current knowledge of annual accumulation and ablation is limited to sparse field measurements biased in location and glacier size. Here, we present altitudinally-resolved specific mass balances (surface, internal, and basal combined) for 5527 glaciers in High Mountain Asia for 2000–2016, derived by correcting observed glacier thinning patterns for mass redistribution due to ice flow. We find that 41% of glaciers accumulated mass over less than 20% of their area, and only 60% ± 10% of regional annual ablation was compensated by accumulation. Even without 21st century warming, 21% ± 1% of ice volume will be lost by 2100 due to current climatic-geometric imbalance, representing a reduction in glacier ablation into rivers of 28% ± 1%. The ablation of glaciers in the Himalayas and Tien Shan was mostly unsustainable and ice volume in these regions will reduce by at least 30% by 2100. The most important and vulnerable glacier-fed river basins (Amu Darya, Indus, Syr Darya, Tarim Interior) were supplied with >50% sustainable glacier ablation but will see long-term reductions in ice mass and glacier meltwater supply regardless of the Karakoram Anomaly.


2009 ◽  
Vol 66 (7) ◽  
pp. 2073-2084 ◽  
Author(s):  
Peter Névir ◽  
Matthias Sommer

Abstract Nambu field theory, originated by Névir and Blender for incompressible flows, is generalized to establish a unified energy–vorticity theory of ideal fluid mechanics. Using this approach, the degeneracy of the corresponding noncanonical Poisson bracket—a characteristic property of Hamiltonian fluid mechanics—can be replaced by a nondegenerate bracket. An energy–vorticity representation of the quasigeostrophic theory and of multilayer shallow-water models is given, highlighting the fact that potential enstrophy is just as important as energy. The energy–vorticity representation of the hydrostatic adiabatic system on isentropic surfaces can be written in complete analogy to the shallow-water equations using vorticity, divergence, and pseudodensity as prognostic variables. Furthermore, it is shown that the Eulerian equation of motion, the continuity equation, and the first law of thermodynamics, which describe the nonlinear evolution of a 3D compressible, adiabatic, and nonhydrostatic fluid, can be written in Nambu representation. Here, trilinear energy–helicity, energy–mass, and energy–entropy brackets are introduced. In this model the global conservation of Ertel’s potential enstrophy can be interpreted as a super-Casimir functional in phase space. In conclusion, it is argued that on the basis of the energy–vorticity theory of ideal fluid mechanics, new numerical schemes can be constructed, which might be of importance for modeling coherent structures in long-term integrations and climate simulations.


2014 ◽  
Vol 30 (02) ◽  
pp. 66-78
Author(s):  
Mark Pavkov ◽  
Morabito Morabitob

Experiments were conducted at the U.S. Naval Academy's Hydromechanics Laboratory to determine the effect of finite water depth on the resistance, heave, and trim of two different trimaran models. The models were tested at the same length to water depth ratios over a range of Froude numbers in the displacement speed regime. The models were also towed in deep water for comparison. Additionally, the side hulls were adjusted to two different longitudinal positions to investigate possible differences resulting from position. Near critical speed, a large increase in resistance and sinkage was observed, consistent with observations of conventional displacement hulls. The data from the two models are scaled up to a notional 125-m length to illustrate the effects that would be observed for actual ships similar in size to the U.S. Navy's Independence Class Littoral Combat Ship. Faired plots are developed to allow for rapid estimation of shallow water effect on trimaran resistance and under keel clearance. An example is provided.


2019 ◽  
Vol 213 ◽  
pp. 486-498 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guanfang Sun ◽  
Yan Zhu ◽  
Ming Ye ◽  
Jinzhong Yang ◽  
Zhongyi Qu ◽  
...  

2010 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 345-360 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. L. Shroyer ◽  
J. N. Moum ◽  
J. D. Nash

Abstract. The energetics of large amplitude, high-frequency nonlinear internal waves (NLIWs) observed over the New Jersey continental shelf are summarized from ship and mooring data acquired in August 2006. NLIW energy was typically on the order of 105 Jm−1, and the wave dissipative loss was near 50 W m−1. However, wave energies (dissipations) were ~10 (~2) times greater than these values during a particular week-long period. In general, the leading waves in a packet grew in energy across the outer shelf, reached peak values near 40 km inshore of the shelf break, and then lost energy to turbulent mixing. Wave growth was attributed to the bore-like nature of the internal tide, as wave groups that exhibited larger long-term (lasting for a few hours) displacements of the pycnocline offshore typically had greater energy inshore. For ship-observed NLIWs, the average dissipative loss over the region of decay scaled with the peak energy in waves; extending this scaling to mooring data produces estimates of NLIW dissipative loss consistent with those made using the flux divergence of wave energy. The decay time scale of the NLIWs was approximately 12 h corresponding to a length scale of 35 km (O(100) wavelengths). Imposed on these larger scale energetic trends, were short, rapid exchanges associated with wave interactions and shoaling on a localized topographic rise. Both of these events resulted in the onset of shear instabilities and large energy loss to turbulent mixing.


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