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1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
Author(s):  
Billy L. Edge

These proceedings of the Eighteenth Coastal Engineering Conference held in Cape Town, Republic of South Africa, November 14-19, 1982 include the 167 papers presented at the conference. The proceedings are divided into 5 major subject areas. Part I, theoretical and observed wave characteristics, includes discussions on wave height distribution, waves in nearshore zones, tide predictions, wave energy conversion and wind effects. Part II, covers aspects of coastal sediment problems such as sediment transport, shore protection, beach profile changes, and beach erosion. Part III, coastal structures and related problems, covers construction, monitoring and performance of different coastal and offshore structures. Coastal, estuarine, and environmental problems are addressed in Part IV, including design of coastal water intakes, salinity intrusion, ocean outfalls, and environmental effects of construction. The final section covers ship motion response.

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 26
Author(s):  
J.T. Juang

Due to the special bathymetry in Taiwan Strait, the waves off the western coast of Taiwan are considered to be composed of two-source wave system. One propagates from the central part of the Strait named main wave, and the other is generated by the local wind known as local wave which occurs along the shore. After the combination and the transformation procedure from these two-nonlinear-source wave system, the wave height distribution in Taiwan Strait should be modified. A comparison of the wave height distributions based on the present proposed method with the field data indicates that the present method yields a better result than other theorems. Furthermore, the result of application of two non-linear wave theorem to wave prediction are also presented.


2008 ◽  
Vol 17 ◽  
pp. 13-18 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Lionello ◽  
M. B. Galati

Abstract. This study analyzes the link between the SWH (Significant Wave Height) distribution in the Mediterranean Sea during the second half of the 20th century and the Northern Hemisphere SLP (Sea Level Pressure) teleconnection patterns. The SWH distribution is computed using the WAM (WAve Model) forced by the surface wind fields provided by the ERA-40 reanalysis for the period 1958–2001. The time series of mid-latitude teleconnection patterns are downloaded from the NOAA web site. This study shows that several mid-latitude patterns are linked to the SWH field in the Mediterranean, especially in its western part during the cold season: East Atlantic Pattern (EA), Scandinavian Pattern (SCA), North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), East Atlantic/West Russia Pattern (EA/WR) and East Pacific/ North Pacific Pattern (EP/NP). Though the East Atlantic pattern exerts the largest influence, it is not sufficient to characterize the dominant variability. NAO, though relevant, has an effect smaller than EA and comparable to other patterns. Some link results from possibly spurious structures. Patterns which have a very different global structure are associated to similar spatial features of the wave variability in the Mediterranean Sea. These two problems are, admittedly, shortcomings of this analysis, which shows the complexity of the response of the Mediterranean SWH to global scale SLP teleconnection patterns.


Author(s):  
PING WANG

The shoreline of northern Colombia is located in the tropical zone along the south coast of Caribbean Sea. Its coastal processes are strongly influenced by the northeast trade wind, which results in the dominating northeasterly approaching wave occurring over 95% of the time. This drives a persistent southwestward longshore sand transport. The state of the beach along the generally northeast-southwest trending northern Colombia coast is strongly influenced by this constant unidirectional longshore sediment transport. At locations where this westward longshore sand transport is interrupted, naturally or  anthropogenically, beach accretion occurs along the updrift shoreline coupled with erosion at the downdrift side. Natural interruption of longshore transport can be caused by tidal inlets, protruding headland, shoreline orientation change, and nearshore bathymetry variations. Anthropogenic interruption of the longshore transport along the northern Colombia coast is mainly caused by the construction of groins, as well as harbors at some locations. Numerous groins were constructed due to their local success in creating beach accretion at the drift side. However, severe beach erosion occurs along the downdrift shoreline. Shoreline protection along the northern Colombia coast, and coasts in the tropical area in general, should carefully consider the persistent unidirectional longshore sand transport and should not be misguided by the local updrift accumulation as being a successful project.


Water ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 10 (11) ◽  
pp. 1647 ◽  
Author(s):  
Enzo Pranzini ◽  
Giorgio Anfuso ◽  
Irene Cinelli ◽  
Marco Piccardi ◽  
Giovanni Vitale

Analysis of a large shoreline database (from 1878 to 2017) and recompilation of information on type/age of shore protection structures along the Northern Tuscany, allowed a deep insight of the progressive armouring of this coastal sector. The area experienced beach erosion since the end of the 19th century due to reduced sediment inputs from rivers and harbour constructions. Shore protection structures started to develop at the beginning of the 20th century, first to protect settlements and coastal roads, later to maintain a beach for tourist activity. The changing of the goal and the increasing awareness of the negative impact of some structures resulted in an evolution of coastal defence projects: initially, seawalls and revetments, later detached breakwaters and, more recently, groins. Today, a reduction in hard structures is perceived by removing or lowering detached breakwaters and groins below mean sea level. The forcing function of the growing tourism industry is producing a demand for projects and their design is detailed in this paper: results will be of use in the correct design of a long-term, general, erosion management plan to restore the natural sediment circulation patterns.


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 170 ◽  
Author(s):  
Osamu Toyoshima

Japan is a mountaineous country, and coastal areas have been looked upon quite valuable. In most cases, shorelines were slightly advancing until 1950, although there are some exceptional coasts which have been under continuous erosion for more than a thousand years. However, in the last thirty years, beaches began to be eroded one after another, and the countermeasure against beach erosion has become one of the most important problems in the national land preservation. Since the early 1960's, many seawalls against the beach erosion have been constructed. The table shows the amounts of the shore protection works constructed in the last twenty years.


1983 ◽  
Vol 88 (C10) ◽  
pp. 5925 ◽  
Author(s):  
Edward B. Thornton ◽  
R. T. Guza

2006 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sudip Basak

The environment prevalent in ocean necessitates the pile foundations supporting offshore structures to be designed against lateral cyclic loading initiated by wave action. Such quasi-static load reversal induces deterioration in the strength and stiffness of the soil-pile system introducing progressive reduction in the bearing capacity as well as settlement of the pile foundation. To understand the effect of lateral cyclic load on pile group, a new apparatus, consisting of mechanically and electrically controlled components, has been designed and fabricated. Each of the components of this apparatus is calibrated and a series of trial tests are performed for its performance study. This paper presents detailed description of the apparatus, calibration and operating principle of each of its components, the observations made from trial experiments and the relevant conclusions drawn therefrom.


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