scholarly journals FORCES INDUCED BY BREAKERS ON PILES

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 102 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robert L. Wiegel
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Impact Force ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Loading ◽  
Depth Of Penetration ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Proper Design ◽  
Bottom Depth ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Time Information

This paper consists of three parts. The first part presents a method for analyzing the forces exerted by breaking waves on a cirular pile. The force consists of two components, a slowly varying force and a much larger but very short duration quasi-impact force (probably of the order of 1/100 of a second). The second part is concerned with breaker characteristics, with emphasis being given to the few field data that have been measured. The third part consists of a presentation of some available data on surf zone bottom profile variations with time. Information on all three of these parts is needed for the proper design of a pile supported structure in the surf zone. If the bottom along the site of a proposed pier is sand, an estimate of the variability with time of the profile must be made. The effect of bottom depth and configuration on the height of waves moving shoreward, and the effect of this, in turn, on the wave loading is important in the calculations of wave-induced moments about the bottom. The ability of the structure to withstand these horizontal loads depends in part upon the depth of penetration of the piles. If the bottom varies with time, then calculations of wave characteristics and wave-induced loads on the piles should be made for appropriate bottom configurations.

scholarly journals COMPARISON OF MODEL AND OBSERVED NEARSHORE CIRCULATION

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 46 ◽  
Author(s):  
James H. Allender ◽  
John D. Ditmars ◽  
Wyman Harrison ◽  
Robert A. Paddock
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Input Data ◽  
Lake Michigan ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Nearshore Circulation ◽  
Water Level Changes ◽  
Local Water ◽  
Offshore Wave

Results from a two-dimensional numerical model for nearshore circulation induced by waves and wind are compared with observations made during two storms at a beach on Lake Michigan. Model-input data include bathymetry, offshore wave characteristics, wind histories, and local water-level changes. The predicted locations of the breaker zone are in rough accord with those observed during the storms. Data for comparison with model results consist of wave and current observations across the surf zone, especially those acquired by using a towed, instrumented sled. The comparisons show that the model often predicts peak currents near the breaker zone quite well, but underestimates the decay of wave height and the strength of longshore currents across the surf zone. Wave breaking on the bar-trough beach structure prevalent in this study apparently is not well represented by the model. An improved breaking criterion, treatment of breaking waves as traveling bores, and inclusion of horizontal mixing of momentum might add to better simulation of surf-zone currents.

scholarly journals Analysis of Rip Current Characteristics Using Dye Tracking Method

Atmosphere ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (6) ◽  
pp. 719
Author(s):  
Hyun Dong Kim ◽  
Kyu-Han Kim
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Rip Current ◽  
Rip Currents ◽  
Induced Current ◽  
Tracking Method ◽  
Survey Techniques ◽  
Current Characteristics ◽  
Bed Material ◽  
Wave Induced

Rip currents are strong water channels flowing away from the shoreline. They can occur on any shore with breaking waves. Rip currents play a significant role in changing the topography of shallow water regions by transporting large amounts of bed material offshore. Moreover, they pose a significant danger for people living in nearshore zones and surfers and cause hundreds of deaths annually worldwide. Therefore, rip current generation characteristics have been investigated to prevent casualties. In this study, a GPS drifter survey was chosen as the investigation method; however, a few drawbacks were discovered, such as low accuracy due to the GPS drifter becoming trapped in the surf zone. Therefore, drones and dyes were used to overcome the drawbacks of drifter methods. The results of dye tracking and the 3D wave-induced current numerical simulation were compared; the velocity and formation of the rip current were found to be relatively similar. With the technological advancements and invention of new survey equipment, the survey techniques also evolve, and this paper shows that the disadvantages of the GPS-based Lagrangian method can be overcome using a dye-mounted drone, which observes the rip current easily and accurately.

scholarly journals The Accelerations of a Wave Measurement Buoy Impacted by Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (2) ◽  
pp. 214
Author(s):  
Adam C. Brown ◽  
Robert K. Paasch
Keyword(s):  
Inertial Measurement Unit ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Spherical Wave ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Measurement Unit ◽  
High Fidelity ◽  
Wave Measurement ◽  
Near Shore ◽  
Shoaling Waves ◽  
Multiple Deployments

A spherical wave measurement buoy capable of detecting breaking waves has been designed and built. The buoy is 16 inches in diameter and houses a 9 degree of freedom inertial measurement unit (IMU). The orientation and acceleration of the buoy is continuously logged at frequencies up to 200 Hz providing a high fidelity description of the motion of the buoy as it is impacted by breaking waves. The buoy was deployed several times throughout the winter of 2013–2014. Both moored and free-drifting data were acquired in near-shore shoaling waves off the coast of Newport, OR. Almost 200 breaking waves of varying type and intensity were measured over the course of multiple deployments. The characteristic signature of spilling and plunging breakers was identified in the IMU data.

scholarly journals Influence of the Spatial Pressure Distribution of Breaking Wave Loading on the Dynamic Response of Wolf Rock Lighthouse

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
pp. 55
Author(s):  
Darshana T. Dassanayake ◽  
Alessandro Antonini ◽  
Athanasios Pappas ◽  
Alison Raby ◽  
James Mark William Brownjohn ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Dynamic Response ◽  
Pressure Distribution ◽  
Distinct Element ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wave Loading ◽  
Wave Impact ◽  
Pressure Distributions ◽  
Impact Area ◽  
The Impact

The survivability analysis of offshore rock lighthouses requires several assumptions of the pressure distribution due to the breaking wave loading (Raby et al. (2019), Antonini et al. (2019). Due to the peculiar bathymetries and topographies of rock pinnacles, there is no dedicated formula to properly quantify the loads induced by the breaking waves on offshore rock lighthouses. Wienke’s formula (Wienke and Oumeraci (2005) was used in this study to estimate the loads, even though it was not derived for breaking waves on offshore rock lighthouses, but rather for the breaking wave loading on offshore monopiles. However, a thorough sensitivity analysis of the effects of the assumed pressure distribution has never been performed. In this paper, by means of the Wolf Rock lighthouse distinct element model, we quantified the influence of the pressure distributions on the dynamic response of the lighthouse structure. Different pressure distributions were tested, while keeping the initial wave impact area and pressure integrated force unchanged, in order to quantify the effect of different pressure distribution patterns. The pressure distributions considered in this paper showed subtle differences in the overall dynamic structure responses; however, pressure distribution #3, based on published experimental data such as Tanimoto et al. (1986) and Zhou et al. (1991) gave the largest displacements. This scenario has a triangular pressure distribution with a peak at the centroid of the impact area, which then linearly decreases to zero at the top and bottom boundaries of the impact area. The azimuthal horizontal distribution was adopted from Wienke and Oumeraci’s work (2005). The main findings of this study will be of interest not only for the assessment of rock lighthouses but also for all the cylindrical structures built on rock pinnacles or rocky coastlines (with steep foreshore slopes) and exposed to harsh breaking wave loading.

scholarly journals Development and Validation of Quasi-Eulerian Mean Three-Dimensional Equations of Motion Using the Generalized Lagrangian Mean Method

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
pp. 76
Author(s):  
Duoc Nguyen ◽  
Niels Jacobsen ◽  
Dano Roelvink
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Successful Implementation ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Mean Motion ◽  
Generalized Lagrangian

This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is employed to derive a set of quasi-Eulerian mean three-dimensional equations of motion, where effects of the waves are included through source terms. The obtained equations are expressed to the second-order of wave amplitude. Whereas the classical Eulerian-mean equations of motion are only applicable below the wave trough, the new equations are valid until the mean water surface even in the presence of finite-amplitude surface waves. A two-dimensional numerical model (2DV model) is developed to validate the new set of equations of motion. The 2DV model passes the test of steady monochromatic waves propagating over a slope without dissipation (adiabatic condition). This is a primary test for equations of mean motion with a known analytical solution. In addition to this, experimental data for the interaction between random waves and a mean current in both non-breaking and breaking waves are employed to validate the 2DV model. As shown by this successful implementation and validation, the implementation of these equations in any 3D model code is straightforward and may be expected to provide consistent results from deep water to the surf zone, under both weak and strong ambient currents.

Distributions of void fraction under breaking waves in the surf zone

2005 ◽  
Vol 32 (14-15) ◽  
pp. 1829-1840 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ashabul Hoque ◽  
Shin-ichi Aoki
Keyword(s):  
Void Fraction ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves

Distribution of Wave Impact Forces From Breaking and Non-Breaking Waves

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anne M. Fullerton ◽  
Thomas C. Fu ◽  
Edward S. Ammeen
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Qualitative Assessment ◽  
Total Force ◽  
Impact Loads ◽  
Wave Impact ◽  
Data Set ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Wide Range

Impact loads from waves on vessels and coastal structures are highly complex and may involve wave breaking, making these changes difficult to estimate numerically or empirically. Results from previous experiments have shown a wide range of forces and pressures measured from breaking and non-breaking waves, with no clear trend between wave characteristics and the localized forces and pressures that they generate. In 2008, a canonical breaking wave impact data set was obtained at the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division, by measuring the distribution of impact pressures of incident non-breaking and breaking waves on one face of a cube. The effects of wave height, wavelength, face orientation, face angle, and submergence depth were investigated. A limited number of runs were made at low forward speeds, ranging from about 0.5 to 2 knots (0.26 to 1.03 m/s). The measurement cube was outfitted with a removable instrumented plate measuring 1 ft2 (0.09 m2), and the wave heights tested ranged from 8–14 inches (20.3 to 35.6 cm). The instrumented plate had 9 slam panels of varying sizes made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and 11 pressure gages; this data was collected at 5 kHz to capture the dynamic response of the gages and panels and fully resolve the shapes of the impacts. A Kistler gage was used to measure the total force averaged over the cube face. A bottom mounted acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) was used to obtain measurements of velocity through the water column to provide incoming velocity boundary conditions. A Light Detecting and Ranging (LiDAR) system was also used above the basin to obtain a surface mapping of the free surface over a distance of approximately 15 feet (4.6 m). Additional point measurements of the free surface were made using acoustic distance sensors. Standard and high-speed video cameras were used to capture a qualitative assessment of the impacts. Impact loads on the plate tend to increase with wave height, as well as with plate inclination toward incoming waves. Further trends of the pressures and forces with wave characteristics, cube orientation, draft and face angle are investigated and presented in this paper, and are also compared with previous test results.

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