scholarly journals Comment on “Breaking wave induced cross-shore tracer dispersion in the surf zone: Model results and scaling”

2007 ◽  
Vol 112 (C11) ◽  
Author(s):  
Stephen M. Henderson
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Zone Model ◽  
Tracer Dispersion ◽  
Wave Induced

scholarly journals TOWARD A SIMPLE MODEL OF THE WAVE BREAKING TRANSITION REGION IN SURF ZONES

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 72 ◽  
Author(s):  
David R. Basco ◽  
Takao Yamashita
Keyword(s):  
Simple Model ◽  
Transition Region ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Zone Model ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Linear Growth Model ◽  
Semi Empirical

Breaking waves undergo a transition from oscillatory, irrotational motion, to highly rotational (turbulent) motion with some particle translation. On plane or monotonically decreasing beach profiles, this physically takes place in such a way that the mean water level remains essentially constant within the transition region. Further shoreward a rapid set-up takes place within the inner, bore-like region. The new surf zone model of Svendsen (1984) begins at this transition point and the new wave there contains a trapped volume of water within the surface roller moving with the wave speed. This paper describes a simple model over the transition zone designed to match the Svendsen (1984) model at the end of the transition region. It uses a simple, linear growth model for the surface roller area development and semi-empirical model for the variation of the wave shape factor. Breaking wave type can vary from spilling through plunging as given by a surf similarity parameter. The model calculates the wave height decrease and width of the transition region for all breaker types on plane or monotonically depth decreasing beaches.

A Quasi-3D Surf Zone Model

1995 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jung Lyul Lee ◽  
Hsiang Wang
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Zone Model

Ship Dynamics in the Surf Zone Model Testing

2008 ◽  
Author(s):  
Miguel Quintero ◽  
Faydra Schaffer
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Model Testing ◽  
Zone Model ◽  
Ship Dynamics

scholarly journals Nonlinear wave energy modelling in the surf zone

1996 ◽  
Vol 3 (2) ◽  
pp. 127-134 ◽  
Author(s):  
Th. V. Karambas
Keyword(s):  
Wave Energy ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Energy Balance Equation ◽  
Propagation Model ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Dissipation Term ◽  
Energy Modelling ◽  
Turbulence Effects ◽  
Energy And Momentum ◽  
Energy Equations

Abstract. Breaking wave energy in the surf zone is modelled through the incorporation of the time dependent energy balance equation in a non linear dispersive wave propagation model. The energy equations solved simultaneously with the momentum and continuity equation. Turbulence effects and the non uniform horizontal velocity distribution due to breaking is introduced in both the energy and momentum equations. The dissipation term is a function of the velocity defect derived from a turbulent analysis. The resulting system predicts both wave characteristics (surface elevation and velocity) and the energy distribution inside surf zone. The model is validated against experimental data and analytical expressions.

scholarly journals Hydrodynamics of Regular Breaking Wave

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Diana De Padova ◽  
Michele Mossa
Keyword(s):  
Flow Field ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Laser Doppler Anemometry ◽  
Single Point ◽  
Measurement Techniques ◽  
Experimental Studies ◽  
Outer Region ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Measured Velocity ◽  
Spatial Gradients

Turbulence and undertow currents play an important role in surf-zone mixing and transport processes; therefore, their study is fundamental for the understanding of nearshore dynamics and the related planning and management of coastal engineering activities. Pioneering studies qualitatively described the features of breakers in the outer region of the surf zone. More detailed information on the velocity field under spilling and plunging breakers can be found in experimental works, where single-point measurement techniques, such as Hot Wire Anemometry and Laser Doppler Anemometry (LDA), were used to provide maps of the flow field in a time-averaged or ensemble-averaged sense. Moreover, the advent of non-intrusive measuring techniques, such as Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) provided accurate and detailed instantaneous spatial maps of the flow field. However, by correlating spatial gradients of the measured velocity components, the instantaneous vorticity maps could be deduced. Moreover, the difficulties of measuring velocity due to the existence of air bubbles entrained by the plunging jet have hindered many experimental studies on wave breaking encouraging the development of numerical model as useful tool to assisting in the interpretation and even the discovery of new phenomena. Therefore, the development of an WCSPH method using the RANS equations coupled with a two-equation k–ε model for turbulent stresses has been employed to study of the turbulence and vorticity distributions in in the breaking region observing that these two aspects greatly influence many coastal processes, such as undertow currents, sediment transport and action on maritime structures.

scholarly journals PROBABILITIES OF BREAKING WAVE CHARACTERISTICS

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 25 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Ian Collins
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Probability Density ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Probability Distributions ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Probability Densities ◽  
Wave Heights

Utilizing the hydrodynamic relationships for shoaling and refraction of waves approaching a shoreline over parallel bottom contours a procedure is developed to transform an arbitrary probability density of wave characteristics in deep water into the corresponding breaking characteristics in shallow Water A number of probability distributions for breaking wave characteristics are derived m terms of assumed deep water probability densities of wave heights wave lengths and angles of approach Some probability densities for wave heights at specific locations in the surf zone are computed for a Rayleigh distribution in deep water The probability computations are used to derive the expectation of energy flux and its distribution.

scholarly journals Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

2015 ◽  
Vol 62 (1-2) ◽  
pp. 27-39 ◽  
Author(s):  
Grzegorz R. Cerkowniak ◽  
Rafał Ostrowski ◽  
Magdalena Stella
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Shear Stresses ◽  
Research Station ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Sea Bottom ◽  
Theoretical Investigations ◽  
Deep Water Wave ◽  
Offshore Wave ◽  
Wave Induced

AbstractThe paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly by breaking. The main field data comprise offshore wave parameters and three cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Waveinduced nearbed velocities and bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for weak, moderate, strong and extreme storm conditions to determine sediment motion regimes at various locations on the seaward boundary of the surf zone. The paper contains a discussion on the depth of closure concept, according to which the offshore range of sea bottom changes can be determined by the extreme seasonal deep-water wave parameters.

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