scholarly journals BEACH CUT IN RELATION TO SURF ZONE MORPHODYNAMICS

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 60 ◽  
Author(s):  
L.D. Wright
Keyword(s):  
Incident Wave ◽  
Field Experiments ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Subharmonic Resonance ◽  
Southeastern Australia ◽  
The World ◽  
Wave Conditions

Field experiments on the coast of Southeastern Australia, supplemented by systematic observations in a variety of environments in other parts of the world, indicate at least three quasi-discrete modes of subaerial beach cut, each of which is related to a distinct set of mechanisms. For any given set of incident wave conditions, the operation or non-operation of a particular mode of cutting depends on the morphodynamic state of the surf-zone and beach. Steep, reflective, beaches are susceptible to cut under moderate swell conditions by accentuated runup and berm overtopping associated with subharmonic resonance. Appreciably more energy is required to cut flat dissipative beaches. Cut of dissipative beaches involves high setup which oscillates at infragravity frequency and allows the bores of broken waves to penetrate to the backshore. Beach states intermediate between the reflective and dissipative extremes are subject to cut by both the modes just described as well as by scour in the embayments of topographically arrested rips which can cause significant localized erosion even when the coast regionally is accreting. Beaches which most commonly exhibit intermediate topographies are the least stable and most mobile.

scholarly journals ON PREDICTING INFRAGRAVITY ENERGY IN THE SURF ZONE

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 130
Author(s):  
Asbury H. Sallenger ◽  
Robert A. Holman
Keyword(s):  
Incident Wave ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Standing Waves ◽  
Wave Mode ◽  
Edge Wave ◽  
Flow Data ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Synthetic Spectra ◽  
Wave Conditions

Flow data were obtained in the surf zone across a barred profile during a storm. RMS cross-shore velocities due to waves in the infragravity band (wave periods greater than 20 s) had maxima in excess of 0.5 m/s over the bar crest. For comparison to measured spectra, synthetic spectra of cross-shore flow were computed using measured nearshore profiles. The synthetic spectra were calculated assuming a white runup spectrum of mode-4 edge waves of unit amplitude, although the results would be essentially the same for standing waves or any edge-wave mode above 2. The structure, in the infragravity band, of these synthetic spectra corresponded reasonably well with the structure of the measured spectra. Total variances of measured cross-shore flow within the infragravity band were nondimensionalized by dividing by total infragravity variances of synthetic spectra. These nondimensional variances were independent of distance offshore and increased with the square of the breaker height. Thus, cross-shore flow due to infragravity waves can be estimated with knowledge of the nearshore profile and incident wave conditions.

scholarly journals TOWARD AN IMPROVED EMPIRICAL FORMULA FOR LONGSHORE SAND TRANSPORT

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 88 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nicholas C. Kraus ◽  
Kathryn J. Gingerich ◽  
Julie Dean Rosati
Keyword(s):  
Oscillatory Flow ◽  
Field Experiments ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Transport Rate ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Total Transport ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Correction Terms

This paper presents results of two field experiments performed using portable traps to obtain point measurements of the longshore sand transport rate in the surf zone. The magnitude of the transport rate per unit width of surf zone is found to depend on the product of the local wave height and mean longshore current speed, but correlation is much improved by including two correction terms, one accounting for local wave energy dissipation and the other for the fluctuation in the longshore current. The field transport rates are also found to be compatible with laboratory rates obtained under combined unidirectional and oscillatory flow. Total transport rates previously reported for this experiment program are revised with recently determined sand trapping efficiencies.

Long-term field experiments of the world

2003 ◽  
Vol 49 (5) ◽  
pp. 465-483 ◽  
Author(s):  
Katalin Debreczeni ◽  
Martin Körschens
Keyword(s):  
Field Experiments ◽  
The World ◽  
Term Field

scholarly journals Population structure and reproductive biology of Metamysidopsis neritica (Crustacea: Mysidacea) in a sand beach in south Brazil

2008 ◽  
Vol 25 (3) ◽  
pp. 403-412 ◽  
Author(s):  
Patrícia Calil ◽  
Carlos A. Borzone
Keyword(s):  
Population Structure ◽  
Reproductive Biology ◽  
Direct Relationship ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Population Characteristics ◽  
Egg Volume ◽  
Sand Beach ◽  
The World ◽  
Egg Number ◽  
South Brazil

Mysidacea are common sublittoral crustaceans that inhabit all coasts in the world. In this study, the population characteristics and the reproductive biology of Metamysidopsis neritica Bond-Buckup & Tavares, 1992 were studied in the surf zone of a south Brazilian beach (Atami). Mysids were sampled at monthly intervals from August, 1999 to July, 2000 (total of 29,490 individuals). Individuals were classified into six population categories. The highest abundance occurred in May (8,665) and August (6,415), and lowest in September (336) and December (368). Three main generations were identified, namely the summer, fall and winter generations. The winter generation was the longest (four to five months). The fall generation lasted four months, and the summer one extended from three to four months. Ovigerous females occurred throughout the year, with a greater proportion in July. The number of eggs or larvae varied from one to 16. Weak associations were found between female length and egg number, egg volume, and the number of larvae with and without eyes. Egg volume increased during the coldest season, whereas the smallest values were recorded during summer. These results suggest a possible direct relationship between egg volume and generation longevity.

scholarly journals Turbulence and Flow–Sediment Interactions in Open-Channel Flows

Water ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (11) ◽  
pp. 3169
Author(s):  
Roberto Gaudio
Keyword(s):  
Open Channel ◽  
Field Experiments ◽  
State Of The Art ◽  
Channel Flows ◽  
Special Issue ◽  
Panoramic View ◽  
Open Channel Flows ◽  
River Hydraulics ◽  
The World ◽  
Computing Skills

The main focus of this Special Issue of Water is the state-of-the-art and recent research on turbulence and flow–sediment interactions in open-channel flows. Our knowledge of river hydraulics is becoming deeper and deeper, thanks to both laboratory/field experiments related to the characteristics of turbulence and their link to the erosion, transport, deposition, and local scouring phenomena. Collaboration among engineers, physicists, and other experts is increasing and furnishing new inter/multidisciplinary perspectives to the research in river hydraulics and fluid mechanics. At the same time, the development of both sophisticated laboratory instrumentation and computing skills is giving rise to excellent experimental–numerical comparative studies. Thus, this Special Issue, with ten papers by researchers from many institutions around the world, aims at offering a modern panoramic view on all the above aspects to the vast audience of river researchers.

scholarly journals FIELD MEASUREMENTS AND MODELLING OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS AT A HIGH-ENERGY GEOLOGICALLY-CONSTRAINED BEACH

2020 ◽  
pp. 18
Author(s):  
Arthur Mouragues ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Vincent Marieu
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Forcing ◽  
Circulation Patterns ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Nearshore Currents ◽  
Set Up

We present field measurements of nearshore currents at a high-energy mesotidal beach with the presence of a 500-m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave forcing and tide elevation were found to largely impact circulation patterns. In particular, under 4-m oblique wave conditions, our measurements indicate the presence of an intense low-frequency fluctuating deflection rip flowing against the headland and extending well beyond the surf zone. An XBeach model is further set up to hindcast such flow patterns.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/EiqnjBIkWJE

scholarly journals Studi Hindcasting Dalam Menentukan Karakteristik Gelombang dan Klasifikasi Zona Surf Di Pantai Uluwatu, Bali

2018 ◽  
Vol 5 (1) ◽  
pp. 119
Author(s):  
Karina Santoso ◽  
I Dewa Nyoman Nurweda Putra ◽  
I Gusti Bagus Sila Dharma
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Calculation Result ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wind Data ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
The World

Bali is one of the islands where there are many surf zones with various characteristics. In addition, Bali is also a heaven with a classy wave for the surfers of the world. One of the most challenging places to surf in Bali is Uluwatu Beach. Uluwatu Beach is ranked the 3rd best surf spot in the world version of CNN Travel in 2012. Wind causes sea waves, therefore wind data can be used to estimate the height and direction of the waves. Wave Hindcasting with Sverdrup, Munk and Bretschneider (SMB) method is calculated based on wind data for 10 years (2001 - 2010) from BMKG Ngurah Rai Station - Denpasar to obtain a significant wave height and period. In this research, it is necessary to approach through Hindcasting procedure, wave transformation analysis and surfing Terminology in determining the type of breaking wave and classification of surf zone in Uluwatu Beach area. Wave calculation result in Uluwatu Beach dominated by wave that coming from west side with significant wave height (Hs) of 0.98 m and significant wave period (Ts) of 5.21 s. The wave height due to the influence of wave refraction and shoaling is 0.976 m. The breaking wave height obtained from the calculation is 1.04 m at a depth of 0.849 m. From the result in this research, it can be concluded that the breaking wave type that occurred at Uluwatu Beach is plunging type according to the calculation result from its Irribaren number (0.4 <Ni <2.3). The classification of the surf zone at Uluwatu Beach based on its breakup type of wave is thought to be a good zone for surfers on intermediate level.

Subharmonic resonance of proposed storm gates for Venice Lagoon

1994 ◽  
Vol 444 (1920) ◽  
pp. 257-265 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Evidence ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Laboratory Tests ◽  
Venice Lagoon ◽  
Subharmonic Resonance ◽  
Horizontal Axis ◽  
Trapped Modes ◽  
Resonance Mechanism ◽  
Trapped Mode ◽  
Incident Waves

A recent design of storm barriers at the inlets of Venice Lagoon consists of a number of articulated inclined gates hinged on a horizontal axis on the seabed. In laboratory tests with normally incident waves the gates have been found to oscillate at half of the incident wave frequency and out of phase with their immediate neighbours. In this paper we identify the resonance mechanism by first showing the existence of trapped modes as a consequence of the articulated construction. Experimental evidence is shown for the trapped mode and its subharmonic resonance by normally incident waves.

BIOREMEDIATION: RESULTS OF THE FIELD TRIALS OF LANDEVENNEC (FRANCE)

1995 ◽  
Vol 1995 (1) ◽  
pp. 917-918 ◽  
Author(s):  
François-Xavier Merlin ◽  
Philippe Pinvidic ◽  
Christian Chaumery ◽  
Jean Oudot ◽  
Richard P. J. Swannell ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Chemical Composition ◽  
Field Experiments ◽  
Field Trials ◽  
Residual Oil ◽  
The World ◽  
Biodegradation Efficiency

ABSTRACT Results of studies performed all around the world on bioremediation techniques are not often comparable because they have been performed through different methodologies. To address this problem, several organizations have combined their efforts to define a common methodology to assess bioremediation techniques’ efficiency through field experiments. To confirm the validity of this protocol, a 9 month experiment was performed on oiled plots on a sheltered estuarine beach in France. In this experiment, biodegradation efficiency was assessed though multiple analyses (chemical and microbiogical) including changes in chemical composition of the residual oil.

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