scholarly journals WAVE DIRECTION COMPUTATIONS WITH THREE GAGE ARRAYS

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 19 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. Esteva
Keyword(s):  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Aerial Photographs ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Linear Arrays ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Mathematical Expressions ◽  
The Waves

Wave direction is an important parameter in the solution of many coastal engineering problems such as the estimation of sediment transport and the response of coastal structures. Wave-gage arrays are among the most widely proposed systems for measuring wave direction. In late March 1970, the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) installed an array of five pressure sensors off the California coast. Figure 1 gives the location of the array, its geometry and dimensions. The water depth at the site was approximately 9.14 meters (30 feet) and the gages were positioned .76 meters (2.5 feet) from the bottom. One use for the array data would be to compare redundant values of wave direction and estimate the level of accuracy of the computations. Redundant values of direction were obtained from the ten three-gage arrays possible with five gages. Three-gage arrays offer some advantages over arrays involving a larger number of gages and have been proposed by many investigators. An obvious advantage involves economics. Non-linear arrays offer the advantage over linear arrays that straight forward mathematical expressions can be derived for the unambigous computation of direction. These expressions involve the phase differences between gage pairs for the waves present, no recourse to two-dimensional spectral analysis is necessary. However, it is necessary to assume long and relatively straight crested waves, traveling in well determined directions, and geometrically stationary over the array. The first two assumptions are supported by high altitude aerial photographs, Figure 2 and, by radar scans of the wave field, Figure 3. Fujinawa (1975) conjectures that narrow directional spread is responsible for the incomplete recovery of the true directional spectrum from field records in his computations using high directional resolution.

scholarly journals RECENT ADVANCES IN 3D MODELLING OF WAVE-STRUCTURE INTERACTION WITH CFD MODELS

2018 ◽  
pp. 91 ◽  
Author(s):  
Javier L. Lara ◽  
Inigo J. Losada ◽  
Gabriel Barajas ◽  
Maria Maza ◽  
Benedetto Di Paolo
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Wave Structure ◽  
New Physics ◽  
3D Modelling ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Structure Interaction

Numerical modelling of the interaction of water waves with coastal structures has continuously been among the most relevant challenges in coastal engineering research and practice. During the last years, 3D modelling based on RANS-type equations, has been the dominant methodology to address the mathematical modelling of wave and coastal structure interaction. However, the three-dimensionality of many flowstructure interactions processes demands overcoming existing modelling limitations. Under some circumstances relevant three-dimensional processes are still tackled using physical modelling. It has been shown that beyond numerical implementation of the well-known mathematical 3-D formulation of the Navier-Stokes equations, the application of 3-D codes to standard coastal engineering problems demands some additional steps to be taken. These steps could be classified into three main groups relevant to: a) the modelling of the physical processes; b) the use of the tool and c) the applicability of the codes. This work presents an analysis of the use of three-dimensional flow models to analyze wave interaction with coastal structures focusing on recent developments overcoming existing limitations. Last modelling advances, including the implementation of new physics and pre-and postprocessing tools will be shown with the aim of extending the use of three-dimensional modelling of wavestructure interaction in both coastal and offshore fields.

scholarly journals Foreword: Proceedings of the 33rd International Conference

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 1 ◽  
Author(s):  
Patrick J. Lynett ◽  
Jane M Smith
Keyword(s):  
Research Council ◽  
State Of The Art ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Environmental Restoration ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Review Committee ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
International Conference ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Convention Center

The 33rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE 2012) was held in Santander, Spain, 1 July to 6 July 2012. The Local Organizing Committee, led by Iñigo J. Losada and Raúl Medina, is acknowledged for their dedicated preparation over many years that led to a successful conference with broad participation. Eight-hundred attendees from 45 countries gathered at the Santander Convention Center to discuss research and applications in coastal engineering. The papers contained in this Proceedings cover a wide range of topics including waves; swash, nearshore currents, and long waves; coastal management, risk, and environmental restoration; sediment transport and morphology; and coastal structures. The authors have provided state-of-the-art contributions, and this volume could not be produced without their commitment to solving coastal engineering challenges. The members of the ASCE/COPRI Coastal Engineering Research Council (CERC) and the ICCE 2012 Technical Review Committee reviewed 877 abstracts and selected the 524 paper and 110 posters that were presented at the conference. The dedication of the Council members has led to the continued high quality and popularity of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Preparation of these proceedings would not be possible without the assistance of many colleagues. Thank you to Prof. Robert A. Dalrymple, CERC Chairman, and Prof. Billy L. Edge, CERC Vice Chairman, for their guidance and encouragement. Additional thanks go to Iñigo J. Losada for answering our many requests for information and for his gracious hospitality in Santander.

PERUBAHAN GARIS PANTAI DI TELUK PRIGI, KABUPATEN TRENGGALEK, JAWA TIMUR

2020 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 16
Author(s):  
Khairana Ayu Shabrina ◽  
Rudi Siap Bintoro ◽  
Giman Giman
Keyword(s):  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Research Center ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Water Index

<p>Teluk Prigi merupakan perairan di pesisir Samudera Hindia yang dikelilingi oleh bentang alam tebing yang tinggi sehingga wilayah pesisir yang memiliki kondisi dinamis dapat mengakibatkan terjadinya perubahan garis pantai apabila tidak dikelola dengan baik. Maka dari itu pada penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui faktor oseanografi yang menyebabkan terjadinya perubahan garis pantai. Metode yang digunakan terdiri dari pemisahan arus, peramalan gelombang, gelombang pecah, energi gelombang dan refraksi gelombang dengan menggunakan metode menurut <em>Coastal Engineering Research Center </em>(CERC). Selain itu ekstraksi garis pantai dengan metode <em>NDWI (Normal Differential Water Index)</em>, dan analisis jenis sedimen menggunakan modul yang dikeluarkan oleh Pusjatan Balitbang PU. Faktor oseanografi yang dominan menjadi penyebab perubahan garis pantai adalah gelombang bangkitan angin yang pola gelombangnya mengalami perubahan arah yang cenderung tegak lurus pantai, selain itu arus pasang surut menjadi faktor pendukung dengan kecepatan 0,0037 m/s bergerak menuju Utara. Sehingga, kondisi garis pantai pada tahun 2003 dan 2014, 2014 dan 2018 luasan sedimentasi terbesar mencapai 28.949 m<sup>2</sup> dan 52.020 m<sup>2</sup> yang berada di Desa Prigi. Sedangkan Sedangkan lokasi abrasi pada tahun 2003 dan 2014, 2014 dan 2018 luasnya mencapai 4.204 m<sup>2</sup> dan 3.326 m<sup>2</sup>.</p>

U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center's Ecology Program

1984 ◽  
Vol 16 (3-4) ◽  
pp. 525-532
Author(s):  
E J Pullen ◽  
P L Knutson ◽  
A K Hurme
Keyword(s):  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Coastal Vegetation ◽  
Army Corps ◽  
Army Corps Of Engineers ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Navigation Channel ◽  
Biological Environment ◽  
Ecology Program ◽  
The U.S ◽  
Shore Erosion

The Coastal Engineering Research Center at Fort Belvoir, Virginia, is responsible for research that supports the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Civil Works program. This research involves coastal navigation, channel design and maintenance, storm flooding, shore erosion control, and coastal ecology. The ecology research is focused on two major areas: (1) use of coastal vegetation for engineering purposes and (2) effects of coastal engineering activities on the biological environment. The objectives and accomplishments of the ecology research are discussed and specific examples of field guidance are presented.

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