scholarly journals THE LARGE-HEIGHT RESPONSE OF TWO WAVE RECORDERS

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 8
Author(s):  
L. Draper ◽  
J.D. Humphery ◽  
E.G. Pitt
Keyword(s):  
Laboratory Test ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Acceleration Measurement ◽  
Deep Water Wave

Two commonly used deep-water wave recorders which depend on acceleration measurement were calibrated on a Hi metre diameter vertical wheel, and also on much smaller laboratory test rigs, over a range of wave periods likely to be encountered at sea. The results showed that the instruments behaved according to expectations. In addition, spectra from two instruments of the same types which were deployed within one mile of each other were compared and shown to be similar.

scholarly journals Computational Fluid Dynamics Simulation of Deep-Water Wave Instabilities Involving Wave Breaking

2021 ◽  
Vol 144 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuzhu Li ◽  
David R. Fuhrman
Keyword(s):  
Fluid Dynamics ◽  
Computational Fluid Dynamics ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Class Ii ◽  
Dynamics Simulation ◽  
Class I ◽  
Wave Instabilities ◽  
Deep Water Wave

Abstract Instabilities of deep-water wave trains subject to initially small perturbations (which then grow exponentially) can lead to extreme waves in offshore regions. The present study focuses on the two-dimensional Benjamin–Feir (or modulational) instability and the three-dimensional crescent (or horseshoe) waves, also known as Class I and Class II instabilities, respectively. Numerical studies on Class I and Class II wave instabilities to date have been mostly limited to models founded on potential flow theory; thus, they could only properly investigate the process from initial growth of the perturbations to the initial breaking point. The present study conducts numerical simulations to investigate the generation and development of wave instabilities involving the wave breaking process. A computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model solving Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with a turbulence closure model in terms of the Reynolds stress model is applied. Wave form evolutions, Fourier amplitudes, and the turbulence beneath the broken waves are investigated.

Laboratory Observations on the Evolution of Deep-Water Wave Packets

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Packets ◽  
Local Maximum ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Higher Harmonics ◽  
Stokes Waves ◽  
Deep Water Wave

New experimental data for the evolution of deep-water wave packets has been presented. The present experimental data shows that the local maximum steepness for extreme waves is significantly above the criterion of the limiting Stokes waves. The wavelet spectra of the wave groups around the breaking locations indicate that the energy of higher harmonics can be generated quickly before wave breaking and mainly concentrate at the part of the wave fronts. After wave breaking, however, these higher harmonics energy is dissipated immediately. Furthermore, the variations of local peak frequency have also been examined. It is found that frequency downshift increases with the increase of initial steepness and wave packet size.

scholarly journals Experimental Realization of Periodic Deep-Water Wave Envelopes with and without Dissipation

Water Waves ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 113-122 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Magnani ◽  
M. Onorato ◽  
D. Gunn ◽  
M. Rudman ◽  
B. Kibler ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Experimental Realization ◽  
Deep Water Wave

Long waves generated by ground motion

1971 ◽  
Vol 48 (1) ◽  
pp. 81-90 ◽  
Author(s):  
Montgomery W. Slatkin
Keyword(s):  
Ground Motion ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Initial Value Problem ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Speed ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Initial Value ◽  
Deep Water Wave ◽  
Linear Shallow Water Theory

The initial-value problem for waves generated by ground motion near a shore is solved using linear shallow water theory and an exponential bottom profile. It is found that long waves can be trapped along the coast and travel with the deep water wave speed, (gh)½. The energy in these waves decays with x−½ instead of x−1 so that more energy would be observed on this coast than expected on the basis of deep water wave amplitudes.

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