Deep Water Wave Generations by Moving Wind Systems

1961 ◽  
Vol 87 (2) ◽  
pp. 113-144
Author(s):  
Basil W. Wilson
2021 ◽  
Vol 144 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuzhu Li ◽  
David R. Fuhrman

Abstract Instabilities of deep-water wave trains subject to initially small perturbations (which then grow exponentially) can lead to extreme waves in offshore regions. The present study focuses on the two-dimensional Benjamin–Feir (or modulational) instability and the three-dimensional crescent (or horseshoe) waves, also known as Class I and Class II instabilities, respectively. Numerical studies on Class I and Class II wave instabilities to date have been mostly limited to models founded on potential flow theory; thus, they could only properly investigate the process from initial growth of the perturbations to the initial breaking point. The present study conducts numerical simulations to investigate the generation and development of wave instabilities involving the wave breaking process. A computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model solving Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with a turbulence closure model in terms of the Reynolds stress model is applied. Wave form evolutions, Fourier amplitudes, and the turbulence beneath the broken waves are investigated.


Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma

New experimental data for the evolution of deep-water wave packets has been presented. The present experimental data shows that the local maximum steepness for extreme waves is significantly above the criterion of the limiting Stokes waves. The wavelet spectra of the wave groups around the breaking locations indicate that the energy of higher harmonics can be generated quickly before wave breaking and mainly concentrate at the part of the wave fronts. After wave breaking, however, these higher harmonics energy is dissipated immediately. Furthermore, the variations of local peak frequency have also been examined. It is found that frequency downshift increases with the increase of initial steepness and wave packet size.


Water Waves ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 113-122 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Magnani ◽  
M. Onorato ◽  
D. Gunn ◽  
M. Rudman ◽  
B. Kibler ◽  
...  

1971 ◽  
Vol 48 (1) ◽  
pp. 81-90 ◽  
Author(s):  
Montgomery W. Slatkin

The initial-value problem for waves generated by ground motion near a shore is solved using linear shallow water theory and an exponential bottom profile. It is found that long waves can be trapped along the coast and travel with the deep water wave speed, (gh)½. The energy in these waves decays with x−½ instead of x−1 so that more energy would be observed on this coast than expected on the basis of deep water wave amplitudes.


1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 8
Author(s):  
L. Draper ◽  
J.D. Humphery ◽  
E.G. Pitt

Two commonly used deep-water wave recorders which depend on acceleration measurement were calibrated on a Hi metre diameter vertical wheel, and also on much smaller laboratory test rigs, over a range of wave periods likely to be encountered at sea. The results showed that the instruments behaved according to expectations. In addition, spectra from two instruments of the same types which were deployed within one mile of each other were compared and shown to be similar.


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