The climbing protocol of the Swiss Alpine Club – an approximation of biological correlates?

2018 ◽  
Vol 66 (1) ◽  

Introduction: Sport climbing is becoming more and more popular however, protocols for analyzing technique do rarely exist. One common tool in Switzerland is the standard climbing protocol of SAC, which is oriented at the standard movement of climbing allowing to rate individual technique. In this study interaction of blood lactate concentration and its interaction with technique scores were analyzed. Methods: 12 sportclimbers of good leisure sport level with regular climbing activity performed 3 previously unknown routes with difficulties of 6–, 6, 6+ (UIAA Scale) in a climbing hall. Before and immediately after climbing blood lactate concentration was measured: Technical skills for all routes were rated with technical protocol of standard movement developed by the Swiss Alpine Club. Results: Average values of blood lactate concentration increased in route 6– from 1.9 ± 0.6 mmol/l to 3 ± 1.1 mmol/l, in 6 from 2 ± 0.6 mmo/l to 3.4 ± 1.2 mmol/l, in 6+ from 2.2 ± 0.7 mmol/l to 4.4 ± 1.8 mmol/l. Rated technical skills continuously decreased with increasing difficulties of climbing routes with interindividual large differences. Discussion: Principally, the inverse decrease of technique scores to lactate concentration implies, that the tested protocol not only measures technical skills but also physiological components. Furthermore, the identified relationship of technique and strength implies a close relationship in climbing of these two components.

2015 ◽  
Vol 30 (4) ◽  
pp. 228-231 ◽  
Author(s):  
A.F. Gáspari ◽  
R. Berton ◽  
M.E. Lixandrão ◽  
R. Perlotti Piunti ◽  
M.P.T. Chacon-Mikahil ◽  
...  

2016 ◽  
Vol 41 (11) ◽  
pp. 1197-1203 ◽  
Author(s):  
Felipe Mattioni Maturana ◽  
Daniel A. Keir ◽  
Kaitlin M. McLay ◽  
Juan M. Murias

Critical power (CP) conceptually represents the highest power output (PO) at physiological steady-state. In cycling exercise, CP is traditionally derived from the hyperbolic relationship of ∼5 time-to-exhaustion trials (TTE) (CPHYP). Recently, a 3-min all-out test (CP3MIN) has been proposed for estimation of CP as well the maximal lactate steady-state (MLSS). The aim of this study was to compare the POs derived from CPHYP, CP3MIN, and MLSS, and the oxygen uptake and blood lactate concentrations at MLSS. Thirteen healthy young subjects (age, 26 ± 3years; mass, 69.0 ± 9.2 kg; height, 174 ± 10 cm; maximal oxygen uptake, 60.4 ± 5.9 mL·kg−1·min−1) were tested. CPHYP was estimated from 5 TTE. CP3MIN was calculated as the mean PO during the last 30 s of a 3-min all-out test. MLSS was the highest PO during a 30-min ride where the variation in blood lactate concentration was ≤ 1.0 mmol·L−1 during the last 20 min. PO at MLSS (233 ± 41 W; coefficient of variation (CoV), 18%) was lower than CPHYP (253 ± 44 W; CoV, 17%) and CP3MIN (250 ± 51 W; CoV, 20%) (p < 0.05). Limits of agreement (LOA) from Bland–Altman plots between CPHYP and CP3MIN (–39 to 31 W), and CP3MIN and MLSS (–29 to 62 W) were wide, whereas CPHYP and MLSS presented the narrowest LOA (–7 to 48 W). MLSS yielded not only the maximum PO of stable blood lactate concentration, but also stable oxygen uptake. In conclusion, POs associated to CPHYP and CP3MIN were larger than those observed during MLSS rides. Although CPHYP and CP3MIN were not different, the wide LOA between these 2 tests and the discrepancy with PO at MLSS questions the ability of CP measures to determine the maximal physiological steady-state.


2019 ◽  
Vol 14 (6) ◽  
pp. 757-764 ◽  
Author(s):  
Martina A. Maggioni ◽  
Matteo Bonato ◽  
Alexander Stahn ◽  
Antonio La Torre ◽  
Luca Agnello ◽  
...  

Purpose: To investigate the effects of ball drills and repeated-sprint-ability training during the regular season in basketball players. Methods: A total of 30 players were randomized into 3 groups: ball-drills training (BDT, n = 12, 4 × 4 min, 3 vs 3 with 3-min passive recovery), repeated-sprint-ability training (RSAT, n = 9, 3 × 6 × 20-m shuttle running with 20-s and 4-min recovery), and general basketball training (n = 9, basketball technical/tactical exercises), as control group. Players were tested before and after 8 wk of training using the following tests: , squat jump, countermovement jump, Yo-Yo Intermittent Recovery Test Level 1 (YIRT1), agility T test, line-drill test, 5-/10-/20-m sprints, and blood lactate concentration. A custom-developed survey was used to analyze players’ technical skills. Results: After training, significant improvements were seen in YIRT1 (BDT P = .014, effect size [ES] ± 90% CI = 0.8 ± 0.3; RSAT P = .022, ES ± 90% CI = 0.7 ± 0.3), the agility T test (BDT P = .018, ES ± 90% CI = 0.7 ± 0.5; RSAT P = .037, ES ± 90% CI = 0.7 ± 0.5), and the line-drill test (BDT P = .010, ES ± 90% CI = 0.3 ± 0.1; RSAT P < .0001, ES ± 90% CI = 0.4 ± 0.1). In the RSAT group, only 10-m sprint speeds (P = .039, ES ± 90% CI = 0.3 ± 0.2) and blood lactate concentration (P = .004, ES ± 90% CI = 0.8 ± 1.1) were improved. Finally, technical skills were increased in BDT regarding dribbling (P = .038, ES ± 90% CI = 0.8 ± 0.6), shooting (P = .036, ES ± 90% CI = 0.8 ± 0.8), passing (P = .034, ES ± 90% CI = 0.9 ± 0.3), rebounding (P = .023, ES ± 90% CI = 1.1 ± 0.3), defense (P = .042, ES ± 90% CI = 0.5 ± 0.5), and offense (P = .044, ES ± 90% CI = 0.4 ± 0.4) skills. Conclusions: BDT and RSAT are both effective in improving the physical performance of basketball players. BDT had also a positive impact on technical skills. Basketball strength and conditioning professionals should include BDT as a routine tool to improve technical skills and physical performance simultaneously throughout the regular training season.


2014 ◽  
Vol 62 (1) ◽  

Quantifying actual individual training intensity in resistance training is essential for athletes and trainers, but is at present only possible with methodological problems. Thus, the purpose of this article is to examine the relationship of different types of RPE (rating of perceived exertion) with blood lactate concentrations in hypertrophy training. Hereby it is possible, to deduce conclusions about the validity of the RPE-scale and different times of monitoring. In this article two studies with male subjects are presented (study 1: n=10, 23.7 ± 2.8 years; study 2: n=16, 24.9 ± 2.0 years). In both surveys, subjects had to complete 3 sets with 3 minutes of rest between sets in every exercise. Blood lactate was measured before each exercise and two minutes after the completion of each set. RPE was questioned in different forms simultaneous to lactate measurement as well as directly after each set. Results show medium correlations between subjective perception of exertion and blood lactate concentrations (mean r=0.55-0.71). RPE for the whole body (RPE-O) directly measured after the sets, showed the highest relationship with r=0.71. Maximum lactate values ranged from 4.59–15.22 mmol/l between the subjects. As a result, subjective perception of exertion seems to be parallel to blood lactate concentration on an individual basis. Here, the different forms of RPE-questioning have to be regarded individually. The large range of lactate values show a high individuality of lactate response, also influenced by the amount of muscle mass used. As a conclusion, quantifying individual training intensity should be only done in an individual, longitudinal setting with highly constant surrounding conditions. Although it remains unclear, if a discrete and valid diagnostic tool exists.


2015 ◽  
Vol 63 (1) ◽  

We suggest that leisure cross country skiers can also profit from a serious endurance capacity diagnostic. The aim of this study was to establish a reliable and valid protocol in order to make serious recommendation for training schedule of athleths. In order to analyze the relationship between endurance performance and the technic specific capabilities of cross country skiing aiming to allow valid recommendations participants had to absolve two test protocols. The first test consisted of detecting running pace on a treadmill at a 4 mmol/l blood lactate concentration. Second, participants had to absolve a Coopertest in skating technique on flat ground allowing to measure maximum distance absolved during 12 minutes and maximum heart rate. Between the absolved distance on the Coopertest and the pace at 4mmol/l blood lactate a correlative relationship of 0,43 was identified (R2 = 0,43). These analyses allow that participants can position themselves in the sample concerning their technical capabilities. On the other side our analyses let us suggest, that technical capabilities also in leisure sports play an important role, which are best continousely and constantely trained.


2020 ◽  
Vol 19 (1) ◽  
pp. 32
Author(s):  
Gustavo Taques Marczynski ◽  
Luís Carlos Zattar Coelho ◽  
Leonardo Emmanuel De Medeiros Lima ◽  
Rodrigo Pereira Da Silva ◽  
Dilmar Pinto Guedes Jr ◽  
...  

The aim of this study was to analyze the influence of two velocities of execution relative to blood lactate concentration in strength training exercise until the momentary concentric failure. Fifteen men (29.1 ± 5.9 years), trained, participated in the experiment. The volunteers performed three bench press sessions, with an interval of 48 hours between them. At the first session, individuals determined loads through the 10-12 RMs test. In the following two sessions, three series with 90 seconds of interval were performed, in the second session slow execution speed (cadence 3030) and later in the third session fast speed (cadence 1010). For statistical analysis, the Student-T test was used for an independent sample study and considered the value of probability (p) ≤ 0.05 statistically significant. By comparing the number of repetitions and time under tension of the two runs, all series compared to the first presented significant reductions (p < 0.05). The total work volume was higher with the fast speed (p < 0.05). The study revealed that rapid velocities (cadence 1010) present a higher concentration of blood lactate when compared to slow runs (cadence 3030). The blood lactate concentration, in maximum repetitions, is affected by the speed of execution.Keywords: resistance training, cadence, blood lactate.


1993 ◽  
Vol 75 (6) ◽  
pp. 2727-2733 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. H. McKeever ◽  
K. W. Hinchcliff ◽  
D. F. Gerken ◽  
R. A. Sams

Four mature horses were used to test the effects of two doses (50 and 200 mg) of intravenously administered cocaine on hemodynamics and selected indexes of performance [maximal heart rate (HRmax), treadmill velocity at HRmax, treadmill velocity needed to produce a blood lactate concentration of 4 mmol/l, maximal mixed venous blood lactate concentration, maximal treadmill work intensity, and test duration] measured during an incremental treadmill test. Both doses of cocaine increased HRmax approximately 7% (P < 0.05). Mean arterial pressure was 30 mmHg greater (P < 0.05) during the 4- to 7-m/s steps of the exercise test in the 200-mg trial. Neither dose of cocaine had an effect on the responses to exertion of right atrial pressure, right ventricular pressure, or maximal change in right ventricular pressure over time. Maximal mixed venous blood lactate concentration increased 41% (P < 0.05) with the 50-mg dose and 75% (P < 0.05) with the 200-mg dose during exercise. Administration of cocaine resulted in decreases (P < 0.05) in the treadmill velocity needed to produce a blood lactate concentration of 4 mmol/l from 6.9 +/- 0.5 and 6.8 +/- 0.9 m/s during the control trials to 4.4 +/- 0.1 m/s during the 200-mg cocaine trial. Cocaine did not alter maximal treadmill work intensity (P > 0.05); however, time to exhaustion increased by approximately 92 s (15%; P < 0.05) during the 200-mg trial.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)


Animals ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (3) ◽  
pp. 743
Author(s):  
Francesca Arfuso ◽  
Claudia Giannetto ◽  
Elisabetta Giudice ◽  
Francesco Fazio ◽  
Michele Panzera ◽  
...  

The current study aimed to investigate whether peripheral modulators of serotoninergic function and neurohumoral factors’ changes in athletic horses during an official jumping competition, and to evaluate their relationship with the physical performance of competing horses. From 7 Italian Saddle mares (6–9 years; mean body weight 440 ± 15 kg), performing the same standardized warm-up and jumping course during an official class, heart rate (HR) was monitored throughout the competition. Rectal temperature (RT) measurement, blood lactate and glucose concentration, serum tryptophan, leucine, valine, the tryptophan/branched-chain amino-acids ratio (Try/BCAAs), dopamine, prolactin, and non-esterified fatty acids (NEFAs) were assessed before the exercise event (T0), at the end of the competition stage (5 min ± 10 s following the cessation of the exercise, TPOST5), and 30 min after the end of competition (TPOST30). Highest HR values were recorded during the course and at the outbound (p < 0.0001); blood lactate concentration and RT increased after exercise with respect to the rest condition (p < 0.0001). Lower leucine and valine levels (p < 0.01), and higher tryptophan, Try/BCAAs ratio, and NEFAs values were found at TPOST5 and TPOST30 with respect to T0 (p < 0.0001). A higher prolactin concentration was found at TPOST5 and TPOST30 compared to T0 (p < 0.0001), whereas dopamine showed decreased values after exercise compared to rest (p < 0.0001). Statistically significant correlations among the peripheral indices of serotoninergic function, neurohumoral factors, and athletic performance parameters were found throughout the monitoring period. The findings provide indirect evidence that the serotoninergic system may be involved in fatigue during jumper exercise under a stressful situation, such as competition, in which, in addition to physical effort, athletic horses exhibit more passive behavior.


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