scholarly journals A Study of the Maximum Momentum Flux in the Solitary Wave Run-Up Zone over Back-Reef Slopes Based on a Boussinesq Model

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (4) ◽  
pp. 109 ◽  
Author(s):  
Liu ◽  
Shao ◽  
Ning
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Momentum Flux ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Slope Angle ◽  
Shock Capturing ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Back Reef ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

This study utilized a shock-capturing Boussinesq model FUNWAVE-TVD to investigate the maximum momentum flux in the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef slopes. Validation results of the present model were compared to the previous version of FUNWAVE using the eddy viscosity breaking model to demonstrate the advantages of the shock-capturing method in predicting the breaking solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs. A series of numerical experiments was designed comprehensively and performed then to obtain a new formulation for the envelope of the spatial distribution of the maximum momentum flux within the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef beaches, which is different from the one used over uniformly-sloping beaches. Finally, the effects of the variation of reef parameters (i.e., the fore-reef slope angle, reef flat width, and water depth over the reef flat) on the maximum momentum flux at the initial shoreline were investigated to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of tsunami hazard.

Modeling solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs with large bottom roughness

2020 ◽  
Vol 218 ◽  
pp. 108208
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Xianjin Chen ◽  
Conghao Xu ◽  
Meijun Jia ◽  
Changbo Jiang
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

Study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs based on a shock-capturing Boussinesq model

2019 ◽  
Vol 84 ◽  
pp. 216-224 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yue Ning ◽  
Weijie Liu ◽  
Xizeng Zhao ◽  
Yao Zhang ◽  
Zhilin Sun
Keyword(s):  
Shock Capturing ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals Large eddy simulation modeling of tsunami-like solitary wave processes over fringing reefs

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (6) ◽  
pp. 1281-1295 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Tiancheng He ◽  
Zhengzhi Deng ◽  
Long Chen ◽  
Huiqun Guo
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Large Eddy Simulation ◽  
Reef Slope ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Reef Crest ◽  
Primary Concern ◽  
Eddy Simulation ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Large Eddy ◽  
Run Up

Abstract. Many low-lying tropical and subtropical reef-fringed coasts are vulnerable to inundation during tsunami events. Hence accurate prediction of tsunami wave transformation and run-up over such reefs is a primary concern in the coastal management of hazard mitigation. To overcome the deficiencies of using depth-integrated models in modeling tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with fringing reefs, a three-dimensional (3-D) numerical wave tank based on the computational fluid dynamics (CFD) tool OpenFOAM® is developed in this study. The Navier–Stokes equations for two-phase incompressible flow are solved, using the large eddy simulation (LES) method for turbulence closure and the volume-of-fluid (VOF) method for tracking the free surface. The adopted model is firstly validated by two existing laboratory experiments with various wave conditions and reef configurations. The model is then applied to examine the impacts of varying reef morphologies (fore-reef slope, back-reef slope, lagoon width, reef-crest width) on the solitary wave run-up. The current and vortex evolutions associated with the breaking solitary wave around both the reef crest and the lagoon are also addressed via the numerical simulations.

A study of tsunami-like solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs

2018 ◽  
Vol 149 ◽  
pp. 142-155 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Fang He ◽  
Zhengjiang Tang ◽  
Zengsheng Liu
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals UNDULAR BORE DEVELOPMENT OVER A LABORATORY FRINGING REEF

2018 ◽  
pp. 53 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marion Tissier ◽  
Jochem Dekkers ◽  
Ad Reniers ◽  
Stuart Pearson ◽  
Ap Van Dongeren
Keyword(s):  
Coral Reefs ◽  
Wave Field ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Undular Bore ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Reef Type ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Infragravity Wave

Several studies have reported the development of undular bores over fringing coral reefs (e.g, Gallagher, 1976; Nwogu and Demirbilek, 2010) but the importance of this phenomenon for reef hydrodynamics has never been studied. Yet, the transformation of a long wave (e.g., swell or infragravity wave) into an undular bore leads to significant modifications of the wave field. The formation of undulations is for example associated to a significant increase of the leading bore height. Moreover, if the undulations have enough time to develop (i.e. if the reef flat is wide enough), the initial long wave will ultimately split into a series of solitons (e.g., Grue et al., 2008). All this is likely to affect wave run-up. As reeffronted coastlines are particularly vulnerable to flooding, a good understanding of long wave transformation over the reef flat, including their possible transformation into undular bores, is crucial. In this study, we investigate undular bore development over reef-type profiles based on a series of laboratory experiments. More specifically, we aim to characterize the conditions under which undular bores develop, and analyse how their development affect the hydrodynamics at the toe of the reef-lined beach and the resulting wave run-up.

scholarly journals LES Modeling of Tsunami-like Solitary Wave Processes over Fringing Reefs

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Tiancheng He ◽  
Zhengzhi Deng ◽  
Long Chen ◽  
Huiqun Guo
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Reef Slope ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Reef Crest ◽  
Primary Concern ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Two Phase ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Adopted Model

Abstract. Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical reef-fringed coasts are vulnerable to inundation during tsunami events. Hence accurate prediction of tsunami wave transformation and runup over such reefs is a primary concern in the coastal management of hazard mitigation. To overcome the deficiencies of using depth-integrated models in modeling tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with fringing reefs, a three-dimensional (3D) numerical wave tank based on the Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) tool OpenFOAM® is developed in this study. The Navier–Stokes equations for two-phase incompressible flow are solved, using the Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method for turbulence closure and the Volume of Fluid (VOF) method for tracking the free surface. The adopted model is firstly validated by two existing laboratory experiments with various wave conditions and reef configurations. The model is then applied to examine the impacts of varying reef morphologies (fore-reef slope, back-reef slope, lagoon width, reef-crest width) on the solitary wave runup. The current and vortex evolutions associated with the breaking solitary wave around both the reef crest and the lagoon are also addressed via the numerical simulations.

Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach

2006 ◽  
Vol 159 (3) ◽  
pp. 97-105 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. G. L. Borthwick ◽  
M. Ford ◽  
B. P. Weston ◽  
P. H. Taylor ◽  
P. K. Stansby
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Run Up
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