Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach

2006 ◽  
Vol 159 (3) ◽  
pp. 97-105 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. G. L. Borthwick ◽  
M. Ford ◽  
B. P. Weston ◽  
P. H. Taylor ◽  
P. K. Stansby
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Run Up

Modeling solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs with large bottom roughness

2020 ◽  
Vol 218 ◽  
pp. 108208
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Xianjin Chen ◽  
Conghao Xu ◽  
Meijun Jia ◽  
Changbo Jiang
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals A Study of the Maximum Momentum Flux in the Solitary Wave Run-Up Zone over Back-Reef Slopes Based on a Boussinesq Model

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (4) ◽  
pp. 109 ◽  
Author(s):  
Liu ◽  
Shao ◽  
Ning
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Momentum Flux ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Slope Angle ◽  
Shock Capturing ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Back Reef ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

This study utilized a shock-capturing Boussinesq model FUNWAVE-TVD to investigate the maximum momentum flux in the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef slopes. Validation results of the present model were compared to the previous version of FUNWAVE using the eddy viscosity breaking model to demonstrate the advantages of the shock-capturing method in predicting the breaking solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs. A series of numerical experiments was designed comprehensively and performed then to obtain a new formulation for the envelope of the spatial distribution of the maximum momentum flux within the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef beaches, which is different from the one used over uniformly-sloping beaches. Finally, the effects of the variation of reef parameters (i.e., the fore-reef slope angle, reef flat width, and water depth over the reef flat) on the maximum momentum flux at the initial shoreline were investigated to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of tsunami hazard.

scholarly journals Large eddy simulation modeling of tsunami-like solitary wave processes over fringing reefs

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (6) ◽  
pp. 1281-1295 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Tiancheng He ◽  
Zhengzhi Deng ◽  
Long Chen ◽  
Huiqun Guo
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Large Eddy Simulation ◽  
Reef Slope ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Reef Crest ◽  
Primary Concern ◽  
Eddy Simulation ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Large Eddy ◽  
Run Up

Abstract. Many low-lying tropical and subtropical reef-fringed coasts are vulnerable to inundation during tsunami events. Hence accurate prediction of tsunami wave transformation and run-up over such reefs is a primary concern in the coastal management of hazard mitigation. To overcome the deficiencies of using depth-integrated models in modeling tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with fringing reefs, a three-dimensional (3-D) numerical wave tank based on the computational fluid dynamics (CFD) tool OpenFOAM® is developed in this study. The Navier–Stokes equations for two-phase incompressible flow are solved, using the large eddy simulation (LES) method for turbulence closure and the volume-of-fluid (VOF) method for tracking the free surface. The adopted model is firstly validated by two existing laboratory experiments with various wave conditions and reef configurations. The model is then applied to examine the impacts of varying reef morphologies (fore-reef slope, back-reef slope, lagoon width, reef-crest width) on the solitary wave run-up. The current and vortex evolutions associated with the breaking solitary wave around both the reef crest and the lagoon are also addressed via the numerical simulations.

A study of tsunami-like solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs

2018 ◽  
Vol 149 ◽  
pp. 142-155 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Fang He ◽  
Zhengjiang Tang ◽  
Zengsheng Liu
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals Assessment of Numerical Methods for Plunging Breaking Wave Predictions

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 264
Author(s):  
Shanti Bhushan ◽  
Oumnia El Fajri ◽  
Graham Hubbard ◽  
Bradley Chambers ◽  
Christopher Kees
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Turbulence Models ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Rans Turbulence Models ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Better Than

This study evaluates the capability of Navier–Stokes solvers in predicting forward and backward plunging breaking, including assessment of the effect of grid resolution, turbulence model, and VoF, CLSVoF interface models on predictions. For this purpose, 2D simulations are performed for four test cases: dam break, solitary wave run up on a slope, flow over a submerged bump, and solitary wave over a submerged rectangular obstacle. Plunging wave breaking involves high wave crest, plunger formation, and splash up, followed by second plunger, and chaotic water motions. Coarser grids reasonably predict the wave breaking features, but finer grids are required for accurate prediction of the splash up events. However, instabilities are triggered at the air–water interface (primarily for the air flow) on very fine grids, which induces surface peel-off or kinks and roll-up of the plunger tips. Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) turbulence models result in high eddy-viscosity in the air–water region which decays the fluid momentum and adversely affects the predictions. Both VoF and CLSVoF methods predict the large-scale plunging breaking characteristics well; however, they vary in the prediction of the finer details. The CLSVoF solver predicts the splash-up event and secondary plunger better than the VoF solver; however, the latter predicts the plunger shape better than the former for the solitary wave run-up on a slope case.

MPM simulation of solitary wave run-up on permeable boundaries

2021 ◽  
Vol 111 ◽  
pp. 102602
Author(s):  
Lucy Harris ◽  
Dongfang Liang ◽  
Songdong Shao ◽  
Taotao Zhang ◽  
Grace Roberts
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals UNDULAR BORE DEVELOPMENT OVER A LABORATORY FRINGING REEF

2018 ◽  
pp. 53 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marion Tissier ◽  
Jochem Dekkers ◽  
Ad Reniers ◽  
Stuart Pearson ◽  
Ap Van Dongeren
Keyword(s):  
Coral Reefs ◽  
Wave Field ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Undular Bore ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Reef Type ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Infragravity Wave

Several studies have reported the development of undular bores over fringing coral reefs (e.g, Gallagher, 1976; Nwogu and Demirbilek, 2010) but the importance of this phenomenon for reef hydrodynamics has never been studied. Yet, the transformation of a long wave (e.g., swell or infragravity wave) into an undular bore leads to significant modifications of the wave field. The formation of undulations is for example associated to a significant increase of the leading bore height. Moreover, if the undulations have enough time to develop (i.e. if the reef flat is wide enough), the initial long wave will ultimately split into a series of solitons (e.g., Grue et al., 2008). All this is likely to affect wave run-up. As reeffronted coastlines are particularly vulnerable to flooding, a good understanding of long wave transformation over the reef flat, including their possible transformation into undular bores, is crucial. In this study, we investigate undular bore development over reef-type profiles based on a series of laboratory experiments. More specifically, we aim to characterize the conditions under which undular bores develop, and analyse how their development affect the hydrodynamics at the toe of the reef-lined beach and the resulting wave run-up.

scholarly journals Non-breaking and breaking solitary wave run-up

2002 ◽  
Vol 456 ◽  
pp. 295-318 ◽  
Author(s):  
YING LI ◽  
FREDRIC RAICHLEN
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Ad Hoc ◽  
Mapping Technique ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Good Prediction ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Domain Mapping ◽  
Run Up

The run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank was investigated experimentally and numerically. If only the general characteristics of the run-up process and the maximum run-up are of interest, for the case of a breaking wave the post-breaking condition can be simplified and represented as a propagating bore. A numerical model using this bore structure to treat the process of wave breaking and subsequent shoreward propagation was developed. The nonlinear shallow water equations (NLSW) were solved using the weighted essentially non-oscillatory (WENO) shock capturing scheme employed in gas dynamics. Wave breaking and post-breaking propagation are handled automatically by this scheme and ad hoc terms are not required. A computational domain mapping technique was used to model the shoreline movement. This numerical scheme was found to provide a relatively simple and reasonably good prediction of various aspects of the run-up process. The energy dissipation associated with wave breaking of solitary wave run-up (excluding the effects of bottom friction) was also estimated using the results from the numerical model.

Boussinesq modeling of solitary wave run-up reduction by emergent vegetation on a sloping beach

2018 ◽  
Vol 19 ◽  
pp. 78-87 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Zhengjiang Tang ◽  
Changbo Jiang ◽  
Wenrun He ◽  
Zengsheng Liu
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Emergent Vegetation ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Sloping Beach
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