scholarly journals Alkenones, a Renewably Sourced, Biobased Wax as an SPF Booster for Organic Sunscreens

Cosmetics ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 6 (1) ◽  
pp. 11 ◽  
Author(s):  
An Huynh ◽  
Mariam Abou-Dahech ◽  
Christopher Reddy ◽  
Gregory O’Neil ◽  
Mark Chandler ◽  
...  

Sun exposure can affect the skin in various ways leading to short- and long-term consequences. Waxes are often used to optimize the rheological behavior of products and provide an even sunscreen film on the skin, which can boost the sun protection factor (SPF) of ultraviolet (UV) filters. In this study, a biobased wax, alkenones, sourced from commercially available and sustainable microalgae was evaluated as an SPF booster in sunscreens. Thirty-five sunscreens were formulated using three waxes and four organic liquid UV filters. Products were tested for pH, viscosity, spreadability, stability, as well as in vitro SPF and water resistance. Alkenones’ in vitro SPF boosting capacity was similar to beeswax and cetyl alcohol with three “reef-safe” UV filters. None of the waxes used provided significant water resistance, however, using film-former water resistance could be built into the products. A key finding is that alkenones increased the in vitro SPF without increasing apparent viscosity. All products had a skin-compatible pH and they all remained stable at 25 °C for 10 weeks. Overall, the alkenones’ performance was comparable to those of the comparator waxes. Our in vitro results indicate that alkenones offer a sustainable, biobased, non-animal derived choice as an SPF booster for organic sunscreens.

2020 ◽  
Vol 17 (2) ◽  
pp. 1-14
Author(s):  
Chin Yi Sul ◽  
Ana Lucia Morocho-Jacomel ◽  
Fabiana Vieira Lima ◽  
Gabriela Argollo Marques ◽  
Wendi Lucia Avila Rodriguez ◽  
...  

The use of functional bioactive ingredients and the property of water resistance are differentials in the choice of more effective and safer sunscreens. Water-resistance tests are expensive, time-consuming, and usually performed on subjects that expose them to irradiation and long immersion times. Thus, the study of in vitro water resistance using different film/ barrier-forming agents is relevant for obtaining sunscreen resistant to rinsing. We aimed to evaluate the water resistance of a rutin-based bioactive sunscreen containing distinct film/barrier-forming agents by an in vitro method. The in vitro water resistance assessment (% WRR) was carried out in a water bath. In vitro sun protection factor (SPF), critical A, (nm), UVA/UVB ratio, and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF(0)) were evaluated before and after rinsing using a diffuse reflectance spectrophotometer with integration sphere. The formulation with dimethicone showed higher values of SPF after rinsing and achieved the requirement of % WRR greater than 50%. All formulations showed similar variations for all other parameters. The results highlighted the property of water resistance provided by the dimethicone, indicating that this emollient is an interesting ingredient choice for sunscreens.


Cosmetics ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 6 (2) ◽  
pp. 25 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lucia Montenegro ◽  
Ludovica Santagati

Some vegetable oils have many biological properties, including UV-absorbing capacity. Therefore, their use has been suggested to reduce the content of organic UV-filters in sunscreen products. In this work, we investigated the feasibility of developing oil-based vehicles with a high sun protection factor (SPF) using pomegranate oil (PMG) and shea oil (BPO) in association with different percentages of organic UV-filters (octyl– methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and bemotrizinol). We characterized the spreadability, occlusion factor, pH, and required hydrophilic lipophilic balance of the resulting formulations, and did not observe relevant differences due to the incorporation of vegetable oils. The in vitro spectrophotometric determinations of SPF values highlighted that the addition of BPO (1% (w/w)) and PMG (1% (w/w)) resulted in an increase in SPF in comparison with the same formulations that contained only organic UV-filters. The SPF increase was more significant for the formulations that contained lower amounts of organic UV-filters. The results of this study supported the hypothesis that including suitable vegetable oils in sunscreen formulations could be a promising strategy to design products with a lower content of organic UV-filters.


2020 ◽  
Vol 88 (2) ◽  
pp. 22
Author(s):  
Maíra Bueno Ariede ◽  
Ana Lucia Morocho-Jácome ◽  
Thalita Marcílio Candido ◽  
Felipe Rebello Lourenço ◽  
Edna Tomiko Myiake Kato ◽  
...  

Several topical products have been developed to avoid the harmful effects from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, such as sunscreens. Research for actives from natural sources is increasing due to the fact that chemical filters could induce adverse events. The microalgae Botryococcus braunii has potential interest in cosmetic applications. Specialized literature reported that B. braunii aqueous extract induced a reduction in skin dehydration and collagen production and promoted antioxidant activity. This research aimed to produce B. braunii biomass and to investigate its contribution regarding photoprotection. Formulations containing B. braunii dry biomass, with or without UV filters into vehicles composed of an emulsifying polymer or a self-emulsifying base, were evaluated in vitro by means of photoprotective activity and photostability. B. braunii dry biomass did not provide adequate photoprotection efficacy; however, it was observed that the self-emulsifying base promoted better sun protection factor (SPF) in comparison with the emulsifying polymer.


2008 ◽  
Vol 50 (2) ◽  
pp. 159-161 ◽  
Author(s):  
Céline Couteau ◽  
Roula Chammas ◽  
Soumia Alami-El Boury ◽  
Benjamin Choquenet ◽  
Eva Paparis ◽  
...  

2002 ◽  
Vol 24 (4) ◽  
pp. 644-645 ◽  
Author(s):  
April Ginther

In the introduction to The power of tests: A critical perspective on the uses of language tests, Elana Shohamy raises the following questions: What is the meaning of a test for test takers, parents, teachers, and school administrators? What are the short- and long-term consequences of tests on the lives of individuals? What are the motivating factors behind the administration of language tests? What are the politics of the tests? These kinds of questions logically arise when the examination of testing includes a concern with the use of tests by educational institutions, policy makers, and society at large. Focusing primarily on the misuse of tests, this volume chronicles both intended and unintended test consequences.


2015 ◽  
Vol 87 (9-10) ◽  
pp. 937-951 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bernd Herzog ◽  
Uli Osterwalder

AbstractSunscreens are used to protect the human skin against harmful effects of solar UV radiation. The most important quantity characterizing sunscreen performance is the sun protection factor (SPF). At the stage of development of new sun protection formulations quick and inexpensive methods for estimation of the UV screening performance are highly desirable. The most convenient approach towards this goal is given by computational simulations. Models for the calculation of the SPF employ the same algorithm as used with in vitro SPF measurements, but replace the transmittance measurement by the calculation of the overall absorbance of the UV filters in an irregular sunscreen film. The simulations require a database with quantitative UV extinction spectra of the relevant UV filters as well as a mathematical description of the film irregularity. The simulation algorithm implies also the consideration of photodegradation properties of the UV filters in the sunscreen composition. Besides using such simulations for designing new sunscreen formulations, the calculations can also support the understanding of sunscreen performance in general.


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