scholarly journals EFFECT OF WAVE HISTORY TO BEACH PROFILE CHANGES DUE TO LONGSHORE SAND TRANSPORT

2000 ◽  
Vol 16 ◽  
pp. 541-546
Author(s):  
Takaaki UDA ◽  
Ken-ichi KATOH ◽  
Takayuki KUCHI-ISHI ◽  
Naohiro AKAMATSU
Keyword(s):  
Sand Transport ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Changes

scholarly journals EXPERIMENTS ON BEACH PROFILE CHANGE WITH A LARGE WAVE FLUME

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 85 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ryoichi Kajima ◽  
Takao Shimizu ◽  
Kohki Maruyama ◽  
Shozo Saito
Keyword(s):  
Simple Model ◽  
Transport Rate ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Grain Sizes ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Profile Change

Two-dimensional beach profile changes were investigated with a newly constructed prototype-scale wave flume. The flume is 205 m long, 3.4 m wide and 6 m deep. Sand of two grain sizes was used in the experiments. Analysis of the results was made through use of the parameter C, introduced by Sunamura and Horikawa (1974) to classify beaches as either erosional and accretionary. Beach profile changes obtained in the flume were similar to those in the prototype (field). Net sand transport rate distributions were classified into five types, two of which do not seem to have been observed in laboratory (smallscale) experiments. A simple model describing the five types was developed for evaluating two-dimensional beach profile changes.

scholarly journals DESCRIPTION OF BEACH CHANGES USING AN EMPIRICAL PREDICTIVE MODEL OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 86 ◽  
Author(s):  
Takaaki Uda ◽  
Hiroshi Hashimoto
Keyword(s):  
Predictive Model ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Data ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Offshore Transport ◽  
Eigenfunction Method ◽  
Profile Change

In order to analyze beach profile changes due to longshore and onshore-offshore sand transport, here is proposed a new model named the "empirical predictive model of beach profile change", which is an application of the empirical eigenfunction method. The analysis of the profile data obtained at the Misawa fishery port in Ogawarako Coast over five years from 1973 to 1977 indicates that profile changes due to longshore transport and to onshore-offshore transport can be separated. The model is shown to be effective in the analysis of profile changes near coastal structures.

scholarly journals FIELD INVESTIGATION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES AND THE ANALYSIS USING EMPIRICAL EIGENFUNCTIONS

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 84
Author(s):  
Hiroshi Hashimoto ◽  
Takaaki Uda
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Time Lag ◽  
Field Investigation ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Sand Waves ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Incident Waves

In order to investigate the response of beach profiles to incident waves, computations by the empirical eigenfunction analysis proposed by Winant et al. are performed. The analysis of the data obtained at Ajigaura Beach over three years from 1976 to 1979 indicates that beach profile changes due to longshore and onshore-offshore sediment transport are separable by the empirical eigenfunction method. The beach profile changes due to longshore sediment transport has a time lag of 12 weeks with respect to the change of wave direction at Ajigaura Beach. It was found theoretically that this time lag was due to the sand waves propagating in the longshore direction. Regarding as onshore-offshore sand transport, the second eigenfunction is associated with the beach changes due to onshore-offshore sand transport caused by the change of wave height.

Modeling beach profile changes by typhoon impacts at Xiamen coast

2018 ◽  
Vol 95 (3) ◽  
pp. 783-804
Author(s):  
Kai Yin ◽  
Sudong Xu ◽  
Wenrui Huang ◽  
Rui Li ◽  
Hong Xiao
Keyword(s):  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Changes

scholarly journals UNDERWATER MOUND FOR THE PROTECTION OF DURBAN'S BEACHES

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 62 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.A. Zwaborn ◽  
G.A.W. Fromme ◽  
J.B. FitzPatrick
Keyword(s):  
Settling Velocity ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Similarity Criterion ◽  
Test Results ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Reasonable Degree ◽  
Model Predictions ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
High Degree ◽  
Movable Bed

The construction of an underwater mound of sand for the protection and improvement of Durban's beaches has been recommended on the basis of intensive investigations These investigations included prototype measurements of beach changes as related to recorded sea conditions, basic scaling tests in which these beach changes were reproduced to scale in movable bed models and tests of the proposed underwater mound in models, using different scales in order to eliminate possible scale effects The test results showed that, provided the shear-settling velocity similarity criterion is satisfied, beach changes can be reproduced in a movable bed model to a reasonable degree of accuracy Optimum dimensions for the cross section of the mound were determined on the basis of the criterion for erosive and non-erosive wave conditions which was derived from the prototype beach profile changes and confirmed by model tests The resulting dimensions are a mound of sand about 4 5 km long, about 1 200 m offshore, reaching to 7 3 m below LWOST, with side slopes of 1 in 25 and a crest width of 61 m 3 3 Of the total quantity required (8 000 000 m ) some 2 500 000 m of sand, available from harbour dredging works in Durban Bay, had been dumped by May, 1970 Model predictions on mound stability and beach improvements were confirmed to a high degree of accuracy by the full scale events.

scholarly journals Beach Profile Changes Due to Low Crested Breakwaters at Sigandu Beach, Central Java

2015 ◽  
Vol 116 ◽  
pp. 510-519 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dede M. Sulaiman ◽  
Huda Bachtiar ◽  
Ahmad Taufiq ◽  
Hermanto
Keyword(s):  
Beach Profile ◽  
Central Java ◽  
Profile Changes

scholarly journals Equilibrium Beach Profile with Net Cross-Shore Sand Transport

2018 ◽  
Vol 144 (6) ◽  
pp. 04018016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nobuhisa Kobayashi ◽  
Tingting Zhu ◽  
Sravani Mallavarapu
Keyword(s):  
Sand Transport ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Equilibrium Beach Profile

scholarly journals A BASIC STUDY ON BEACH PROFILE CHANGES DUE TO CAPILLARY BARRIER OF REUSED SHELLS

2016 ◽  
Vol 72 (2) ◽  
pp. I_556-I_561
Author(s):  
Hiroki SUGA ◽  
Gozo TSUJIMOTO ◽  
Tetsuya KAKINOKI ◽  
Kohji UNO ◽  
Kaoru KOBAYASHI
Keyword(s):  
Capillary Barrier ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Basic Study ◽  
Profile Changes
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