Southern California Deep-Water Wave Climate: Characterization and Application to Coastal Processes

2008 ◽  
Vol 244 ◽  
pp. 1022-1035 ◽  
Author(s):  
Peter N. Adams ◽  
Douglas L. Inman ◽  
Nicholas E. Graham
2003 ◽  
Vol 37 (3) ◽  
pp. 589-612 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard M. Gorman ◽  
Karin R. Bryan ◽  
Andrew K. Laing

2021 ◽  
Vol 144 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuzhu Li ◽  
David R. Fuhrman

Abstract Instabilities of deep-water wave trains subject to initially small perturbations (which then grow exponentially) can lead to extreme waves in offshore regions. The present study focuses on the two-dimensional Benjamin–Feir (or modulational) instability and the three-dimensional crescent (or horseshoe) waves, also known as Class I and Class II instabilities, respectively. Numerical studies on Class I and Class II wave instabilities to date have been mostly limited to models founded on potential flow theory; thus, they could only properly investigate the process from initial growth of the perturbations to the initial breaking point. The present study conducts numerical simulations to investigate the generation and development of wave instabilities involving the wave breaking process. A computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model solving Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with a turbulence closure model in terms of the Reynolds stress model is applied. Wave form evolutions, Fourier amplitudes, and the turbulence beneath the broken waves are investigated.


1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 4 ◽  
Author(s):  
C.G. Graham ◽  
G. Verboom ◽  
C.J. Shaw

This paper presents the results of recent investigations at three sites where waves have been monitored simultaneously by two commonly used deep-water wave recorders, over a total period of 16 sensor-years. The study confirms earlier statements that there are relative differences between the wave parameters and statistical values calculated from the measurements of the two instruments. However, the large amount of data has enabled the authors to quantify the results in engineering terms and to assess the implications for extreme value analysis, spectral analysis and wave climate operational planning.


Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma

New experimental data for the evolution of deep-water wave packets has been presented. The present experimental data shows that the local maximum steepness for extreme waves is significantly above the criterion of the limiting Stokes waves. The wavelet spectra of the wave groups around the breaking locations indicate that the energy of higher harmonics can be generated quickly before wave breaking and mainly concentrate at the part of the wave fronts. After wave breaking, however, these higher harmonics energy is dissipated immediately. Furthermore, the variations of local peak frequency have also been examined. It is found that frequency downshift increases with the increase of initial steepness and wave packet size.


Water Waves ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 113-122 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Magnani ◽  
M. Onorato ◽  
D. Gunn ◽  
M. Rudman ◽  
B. Kibler ◽  
...  

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