scholarly journals La industria textil y su regulación en el siglo XVI: caso particular de Toledo = The textile industry and its regulation in the XVI century: Toledo, a particular case

Author(s):  
María Ángela Jiménez Montañés

Resumen<br /><br />El sector al que correspondió el mayor protagonismo dentro de la industria europea moderna fue, sin lugar a dudas, el textil. Ello no representaba, en realidad, novedad alguna, pues la industria medieval se desarrolló precisamente en función primordialmente de la fabricación de tejidos. El vestido, al tiempo que una necesidad inmediata, resulta expresión visual de distinción social, aún más que la decoración de la vivienda. Por ello la industria textil creció a expensas tanto de la necesidad como del lujo. Uno de los grandes cambios que se producen en este tipo de industria durante todo el siglo XV y se consolida en el XVI se centra en las relaciones de producción, en la utilización de mano de obra campesina y la consolidación del ciclo de producción artesano rural. La mano de obra rural comienza a trabajar por su cuenta o en dependencia del empresario-productor de la ciudad. Si bien, la profunda transformación de la industria textil tendrá lugar en el siglo XVIII, con la revolución industrial.<br />La transformación de la industria textil del siglo XVI propició la expansión de una nueva figura en el ámbito mercantil, que se denomina mercader-empresario, y por tanto, del sistema doméstico de producción conocido como Verlagssystem. Este nuevo sistema implicará modificaciones de factores claves para el desarrollo de las futuras sociedades mercantiles como pueden ser: el capital, la utilización de la materia prima y su proceso de transformación, la formación de los costes de producción y comercialización, la obtención de beneficios y su distribución, la concentración del capital y la generación de rentes. En definitiva, la creación de una nueva clase social, la burguesía. Este trabajo se centra en la industria sedera de la ciudad de Toledo en el siglo XVI.<br /><br /><br />Abstract<br /><br />The textile sector, was the greater protagonist, without doubt, within the modern European industry. It did not represent, in fact, newness some, because the medieval industry was developed indeed in function fundamentally of the weave manufacture. The dress, to the time that an immediate necessity, is visual expression from social distinction, still more that the decoration of the house. For that reason, the textile industry grew as much to expenses of the necessity as of the luxury. One of the great changes that throughout take place in this type of industry, during century XV and consolidates in the XVI, is focused in the relations of production, the use of manual labor farmer and the consolidation of the cycle of production rural craftsman. The rural manual labor begins to work by itself or in dependency of the small businessman of the city. Although, the deep transformation of the textile industry will take place in century XVIII, with the industrial revolution. The transformation of the textile industry of century XVI caused the expansion of a new figure in the mercantile scope, that denominates merchant-small businessman and therefore, of the domestic system of production known like Verlagssystem. This new system will imply modifications of key factors for the development of the future mercantile societies as they can be: the capital, the use of the raw material and its process of transformation, the formation of the commercialization and production costs, the obtaining of benefits and its distribution, the concentration of the capital and the generation of you rent. Really, the creation of a new social class, the bourgeoisie. This work is focused in the silk industry of the city of Toledo in century XVI.

Information ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
pp. 27
Author(s):  
Jiazhen Zhang ◽  
Jeremy Cenci ◽  
Vincent Becue ◽  
Sesil Koutra

Industrial heritage reflects the development track of human production activities and witnessed the rise and fall of industrial civilization. As one of the earliest countries in the world to start the Industrial Revolution, Belgium has a rich industrial history. Over the past years, a set of industrial heritage renewal projects have emerged in Belgium in the process of urban regeneration. In this paper, we introduce the basic contents of the related terms of industrial heritage, examine the overall situation of protection and renewal in Belgium. The industrial heritage in Belgium shows its regional characteristics, each region has its representative industrial heritage types. In the Walloon region, it is the heavy industry. In Flanders, it is the textile industry. In Brussels, it is the service industry. The kinds of industrial heritages in Belgium are coordinate with each other. Industrial heritage tourism is developed, especially on eco-tourism, experience tourism. The industrial heritage in transportation and mining are the representative industrial heritages in Belgium. There are a set of numbers industrial heritages are still in running based on a successful reconstruction into industrial tourism projects. Due to the advanced experience in dealing with industrial heritage, the industrial heritage and the city live together harmoniously.


Author(s):  
Marcello De Cecco

Since it became a united country, Italy has been looked at with keen eyes by foreign economists, economic historians, and policy makers. They wanted to see whether it would be possible for the economy of a country, that had in the seventeenth and eighteenth century regressed to the role of agricultural raw material exporter after having been the premier site of European industry, trade and especially, finance, in the middle ages and the Renaissance, to redress itself and join the industrial revolution, making good use of its population and territory, which gave it the potential to be among the great powers of Europe. In this paper, several instances of this scrutiny are considered, focusing on foreign observers who concerned themselves with the Italian economy at different stages of its development. An attempt is made to see what influence their opinions had on Italian economic debate and Italian policy making.


2018 ◽  
Vol 5 (2) ◽  
pp. 151
Author(s):  
Faradilla Faradilla ◽  
Sulfianto Alias

Samarinda woven sarong is typical sarong of Samarinda. This sarong is still using silk spun silk raw material imported from Tiongkok. The development of aquaculture is needed to obtain local silk threads in order to help to reduce production costs in the samarinda silk industry. The high quality mulberry plants are needed to support silkworm cultivation (sericulture). The qualified mulberry plants are obtained by in vitro culture techniques. The objective of this study is to obtain mulberry leaf (Morus Sp) free from disease, uniform, and to obtain quality silk threads through sericulture techniques with feeds that were propagated in vitro. The research stages consist of sterilization, Murashige and Skoog (MS) media, sub culture, observation of data analysis fund. The design used is Completely Randomized Design with single factor, ie BAP concentration (control, 0.5 mg / l, 1 mg / l and 2 mg / l). Each treatment is repeated 8 times. The results showed that administration of ZPT 2 mg / l at age 4 MST gives the best response for all observed variables. The use of ZPT BAP with various concentrations produces the germination rate, shoot height, number of shoots and number of different leaves. All treatments are unsuccessful in inducing roots.Keywords: in vitro; Murbei; SericultureSarung tenun samarinda adalah sarung khas kota Samarinda. Sarung ini masih menggunakan bahan baku sutera jenis spun silk yang diimpor dari Tiongkok. Pengembangan serikultur diperlukan untuk mendapatkan benang sutera lokal. Sehingga membantu mengurangi biaya produksi dalam industri persuteraan samarinda. Tanaman murbei yang berkualitas diperlukan untuk menunjang budidaya ulat sutera (serikultur). Tanaman murbei yang berkualitas diperoleh dengan teknik kultur in vitro. Tujuan penelitian adalah memperoleh daun murbei (Morus Sp) yang bebas penyakit dan seragam serta memperoleh benang sutera berkualitas melalui teknik serikultur dengan pakan yan diperbanyak secara in vitro. Tahapan penelitian terdiri dari sterilisasi, pembuatan media Murashige dan Skoog (MS), sub kultur, Pengamatan dana analisis data. Rancangan yang digunakan adalah Rancangan Acak Lengkap (RAL) dengan faktor tunggal yaitu berbagai konsentrasi BAP (kontrol, 0,5 mg/l, 1 mg/l dan 2 mg/l) setiap perlakuan diulang 8 kali. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa pemberian ZPT 2 mg/l pada umur 4 MST memberikan respon terbaik untuk semua variabel yang diamati, Penggunaan ZPT BAP dengan berbagai konsentrasi menghasilkan waktu kecepatan bertunas, tinggi tunas dan jumlah tunas dan jumlah daun yang berbeda. Semua perlakuan tidak berhasil dalam menginduksi akarKata kunci : in vitro; murbei; serikultur


Author(s):  
Alfonso Cebrián Rey

La industria sedera toledana del siglo XVII es ejemplo de una actividad determinada, objeto de numerosos escritos económicos que buscan una explicación y una solución a su crisis. Esta actividad manufacturera es fundamental para entender el funcionamiento de Toledo en sus aspectos económicos y sociales, por lo que es normal que sea su crisis objeto de análisis por los sectores intelectuales de la ciudad, cuyos escritos se han agrupado bajo la denominación de Escuela de Toledo. El memorial de Juan González de Vatres Sotomayor lo podemos situar en la transición entre la ebullición que supone la Escuela de Toledo, en torno a 1620, y los escritos posteriores a 1640. Su importancia radica en la descripción detallada de la situación de la industria sedera de Toledo; en su análisis nos señala las deficiencias que sufre la sedería toledana por falta de una producción de materia prima propia, lo que marca la dependencia de Toledo con respecto a otras ciudades productoras; y por una política impositiva poco flexible provocando paro y emigración y, por lo tanto, la falta de competitividad de Toledo ante el auge de las ciudades costeras y la competencia de Madrid. En definitiva, el memorial de Juan González de Vatres Sotomayor es un ejemplo más de la preocupación que suscita la crisis de la industria sedera en los hombres del siglo XVII toledano.Toledo's silk industry during the Seventeenth Century is an example of a certain activity that caused a great amount of writings witti the aim of finding an explanation and a solution to its crisis. This manufacturing activity is fundamental to understand Toledo's working in its economical and social aspects, therefore, it is normal that its crisis provoked an analysis from the intellectual sectors of the city, whose writings have been gathered under the designation of «The school of Toledo». The «Juan González de Vatres Sotomayor» Memorial can be sited in a transition períod between the important moment that means «The school of Toledo», around 1620, and the chronicles later 1640, whose importance is in the detailed description ofthe situation of Toledo's industry. In the analysis are presented the deficiencies that suffers Toledo's silk industry due to the lack of its own production of raw material, which defines the dependency of Toledo with regard to other productive cities; and by a little flexible tax policy that prometed unemployment and mass departure and, consequently the lack of competitiveness of Toledo with regard to the peak of the coastal cities and the competition of Madrid. Definitively, the "Juan González de Vatres Sotomayor» Memorial is another example of the concern that caused the crisis of the silk industry among the men of Toledo in the Seventeenth Century.


2018 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 83-89
Author(s):  
Fauzi Razak

The Industrial Revolution was a time of great age throughout the world. It represented major change from 1760 to the period 1820-1840. The movement originated in Great Britain and affected everything from industrial manufacturing processes to the daily life of the average citizen. The main industry at the time was the textile industry. It had the most employees, output value, and invested capital. It was the first to take on new modern production methods. The effects caused by the industrial revolution which has mentioned above, can lead to another impact such as the emergence of where the industry must obtain the availability of raw materials, and the next impact is where the result of the raw material processess by the industry will be marketed. For colonialism itself, generally it is the direct and overall domination of one country by another on the basis of state power being in the hands of a foreign power. Spesifically colonialism has two objectives, they are political domination and the second one is to make possible the exploitation of colonized country. This research aims to find out the colonialisms traits of the characters perform in their respective position, and to reveal the impacts of colonialism on characters.


Materials ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 13 (3) ◽  
pp. 694 ◽  
Author(s):  
Simona Ioana Borlea (Mureşan) ◽  
Ancuţa-Elena Tiuc ◽  
Ovidiu Nemeş ◽  
Horaţiu Vermeşan ◽  
Ovidiu Vasile

In recent years, natural materials are becoming a valid alternative to traditional sound absorbers due to reduced production costs and environmental protection. This study explores alternative usage of sheep wool as a construction material with improved sound absorbing properties beyond its traditional application as a sound absorber in textile industry or using of waste wool in the textile industry as a raw material. The aim of this study was to obtain materials with improved sound-absorbing properties using sheep wool as a raw material. Seven materials were obtained by hot pressing (60 ÷ 80 °C and 0.05 ÷ 6 MPa) of wool fibers and one by cold pressing. Results showed that by simply hot pressing the wool, a different product was obtained, which could be processed and easily manipulated. The obtained materials had very good sound absorption properties, with acoustic absorption coefficient values of over 0.7 for the frequency range of 800 ÷ 3150 Hz. The results prove that sheep wool has a comparable sound absorption performance to mineral wool or recycled polyurethane foam.


2018 ◽  
Vol 5 (2) ◽  
pp. 127-131
Author(s):  
Luiz Cesar Lopes Filho ◽  
Victor Alves Ribeiro ◽  
Walber Alves Ribeiro ◽  
Flávio Henrique Ferreira Gomes ◽  
Guilherme Goulart Furtado ◽  
...  

Cotton is one of the most important crops, both in the national context and worldwide. Being that, its fiber, constitutes an important raw material for the textile industry. The process of improving cottonseeds, favoured cultivars with smaller seeds. The goal of this work was to evaluate three cultivars of cottonseeds with different sizes through vigour tests. The work was developed in the seeds laboratory and the post-harvest Laboratory of plant products of the Instituto Federal Goiano – Campus Rio Verde. Cottonseeds of 3 cultivars were used (FiberMax 913 GLT, FiberMax 910 and DeltaPine 1648 B2RF), obtained in the crop of 2014 in the city of Primavera do Leste, Mato Grosso. The experimental design was entirely randomized, with eight replications of 50 seeds. Determinations of moisture content and weight of a hundred seeds, germination test and germination velocity index, emergency test, and emergency speed index, electrical conductivity and accelerated aging were conducted. The dimensions of the size of the seeds (length, width and thickness) were also determined, with the aid of digital caliper, and the weight of the seeds, with the aid of a balance of precision of resolution 0, 001g. The data was subjected to analysis of variance and the averages compared to the Tukey test at 5% probability. There was no clear relationship between the size of the seed and its physiological performance in assessed cultivars/batches, making it necessary more studies that can prove that type of association.


2018 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 15-22
Author(s):  
Nemailal Tarafder

The fundamentals of nanotechnology lie in the fact that the properties of materials drastically change when their dimensions are reduced to nanometer scale. Nanotextiles can be produced by a variety of methods. The use of nanotechnology in the textile industry has increased rapidly due to its unique and valuable properties. Changed or improved properties with nanotechnology can provide new or enhanced functionalities. Nanotechnology is a growing interdisciplinary technology and seen as a new industrial revolution. The future success of nanotechnology in textile applications lies in the areas where new principles will be combined into durable and multi-functional textile systems without compromising the inherent properties. The advances in nanotechnology have created enormous opportunities and challenges for the textile industry, including the cotton industry.


Author(s):  
S. E. Sidorova ◽  

The article concentrates on the colonial and postcolonial history, architecture and topography of the southeastern areas of London, where on both banks of the River Thames in the 18th–20th centuries there were located the docks, which became an architectural and engineering response to the rapidly developing trade of England with territories in the Western and Eastern hemispheres of the world. Constructions for various purposes — pools for loading, unloading and repairing ships, piers, shipyards, office and warehouse premises, sites equipped with forges, carpenter’s workshops, shops, canteens, hotels — have radically changed the bank line of the Thames and appearance of the British capital, which has acquired the status of the center of a huge empire. Docks, which by the beginning of the 20th century, occupied an area of 21 hectares, were the seamy side of an imperial-colonial enterprise, a space of hard and routine work that had a specific architectural representation. It was a necessary part of the city intended for the exchange of goods, where the usual ideas about the beauty gave way to considerations of safety, functionality and economy. Not distinguished by architectural grace, chaotically built up, dirty, smoky and fetid, the area was one of the most significant symbols of England during the industrial revolution and colonial rule. The visual image of this greatness was strikingly different from the architectural samples of previous eras, forcing contemporaries to get used to the new industrial aesthetics. Having disappeared in the second half of the 20th century from the city map, they continue to retain a special place in the mental landscape of the city and the historical memory of the townspeople, which is reflected in the chain of museums located in this area that tell the history of English navigation, England’s participation in geographical discoveries, the stages of conquering the world, creating an empire and ways to acquire the wealth of the nation.


2009 ◽  
Vol 160 (7) ◽  
pp. 195-200
Author(s):  
Reto Hefti

In the mountainous canton Grisons, much visited by tourists, the forest has always had an important role to play. New challenges are now presenting themselves. The article goes more closely into two themes on the Grisons forestry agenda dominating in the next few years: the increased use of timber and climate change. With the increased demand for logs and the new sawmill in Domat/Ems new opportunities are offered to the canton for more intensive use of the raw material, wood. This depends on a reduction in production costs and a positive attitude of the population towards the greater use of wood. A series of measures from the Grisons Forestry Department should be of help here. The risk of damage to infrastructure is particularly high in a mountainous canton. The cantonal government of the Grisons has commissioned the Forestry Department to define the situation concerning the possible consequences of global warming on natural hazards and to propose measures which may be taken. The setting up of extensive measurement and information systems, the elaboration of intervention maps, the estimation of the danger potential in exposed areas outside the building zone and the maintenance of existing protective constructions through the creation of a protective constructions register, all form part of the government programme for 2009 to 2012. In the Grisons, forest owners and visitors will have to become accustomed to the fact that their forests must again produce more wood and that, on account of global warming, protective forests will become even more important than they already are today.


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