A coupled-mode model for water-wave induced groundwater pressure and flow in variable bathymetry regions and beaches

Author(s):  
K Belibassakis
Keyword(s):  
Author(s):  
Jun Tang ◽  
Yongming Shen ◽  
Yigang Lv

Coastal waves and near-shore currents have been investigated by many researchers. This paper developed a two-dimensional numerical model of near-shore waves and currents to study breaking wave induced current. In the model, near-shore water wave was simulated by a parabolic mild slope equation incorporating current effect and wave energy dissipation due to breaking, and current was simulated by a nonlinear shallow water equation incorporating wave exerted radiation stress. Wave radiation stress was calculated based on complex wave amplitude in the parabolic mild slope equation, and this result in an effective method for calculating wave radiation stress using an intrinsic wave propagation angle that differs from the ones of using explicit wave propagation angle. Wave and current interactions were considered by cycling the wave and current equation to a steady state. The model was used to study waves and wave-induced longshore currents at the Obaköy coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey. The numerical results for water wave induced longshore current were validated by measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model, and water waves and longshore currents were analyzed based on the numerical results.


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Julien Touboul ◽  
Kostas Belibassakis

<p>In coastal areas, steep bathymetries and strong currents are often observed. Among several causes, the presence of cliffs, rocky beds, or human structures may cause strong variations of the sea bed, while oceanic circulation, tides, wind action or wave breaking can be responsible for the generation of strong currents. For both coastal safety and engineering purposes, there are many interests in providing efficient models predicting the nonlinear, phase resolved behavior of water waves in such areas. The difficulty is known to be important, and many models achieving that goal are described in the related literature.</p><p>Recently, it was established that beneath the influence of vertically uniform currents, the vorticity involved in depth varying mean flows could have significant impact on the propagation of water waves (Rey et al. 2014). This gave rise to new derivations of equations aimed to describe this interaction. First, an extended mild slope equation was obtained (Touboul et al. 2016). Then, the now classical coupled mode theory was introduced in the system to obtain a set of coupled equations, which could be compared to the system derived by Belibassakis et al (2011) but considering currents which may present constant shear with depth (Belibassakis et al. 2017, Belibassakis et al., 2019). In these works, the currents were assumed to vary linearly with depth, presenting a constant shear. However, this approach was recently extended to more general configurations (Belibassakis & Touboul, 2019; Touboul & Belibassakis, 2019).</p><p>In this work, we extend this model to three dimensional configurations. It is emphasized that the model is able to describe rotational waves, as expected, for example, when water waves propagate with a non-zero angle with respect to the current direction (see e.g. Ellingsen, 2016).</p><p>[1] Rey, V., Charland, J., Touboul, J., Wave – current interaction in the presence of a 3d bathymetry: deep water wave focusing in opposite current conditions. Phys. Fluids 26, 096601, 2014.</p><p>[2] Touboul J., Charland J., Rey V., Belibassakis K., Extended Mild-Slope equation for surface waves interacting with a vertically sheared current, Coastal Engineering, 116, 77–88, 2016.</p><p>[3] Belibassakis, K.A., Gerostathis, Th., Athanassoulis, G.A. A coupled-mode model for water wave scattering by horizontal, non-homogeneous current in general bottom topography, Applied Ocean Res. 33, 384– 397, 2011.</p><p>[4] Belibassakis K.A., Simon B., Touboul J., Rey V., A coupled-mode model for water wave scattering by vertically sheared currents in variable bathymetry regions, Wave Motion, vol.74, 73-92, 2017.</p><p>[5] Belibassakis K., Touboul J., Laffitte E., Rey  V., A mild-slope system for Bragg scattering of water waves by sinusoidal bathymetry in the presence of vertically sheared currents,  J. Mar. Sci. Eng., Vol.7(1), 9, 2019.</p><p>[6] Belibassakis K.A., Touboul J. A nonlinear coupled-mode model for waves propagating in</p><p>vertically sheared currents in variable bathymetry-collinear waves and currents, Fluids, 4(2),</p><p>61, 2019.</p><p>[7] J. Touboul & K. Belibassakis, A novel method for water waves propagating in the presence of vortical mean flows over variable bathymetry, J. Ocean Eng. and Mar. Energy, https://doi.org/10.1007/s40722-019-00151-w, 2019.</p><p>[8] Ellingsen, S.A., Oblique waves on a vertically sheared current are rotational, Eur. J. Mech. B-Fluid 56, 156–160, 2016.</p>


2015 ◽  
Vol 2015 ◽  
pp. 1-11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Wenzheng Zhang ◽  
Weikang Jiang

Shock factor is conventionally used to assess the effect of an underwater explosion on a target. The dimensions of some structures are much smaller than the wavelength of incident wave induced by the underwater explosion. The conventional shock factor may be excessively severe for small-sized structures because it neglects the effect of scattering; so it is necessary to study the shock factor for small objects. The coupled mode method is applied to study the scattering field surrounding the cylindrical shells. A nonlinear relation differential is derived from the impact received by the cylindrical shells and the ratio between the diameters of the shells and the wavelength of the incident wave. An improved shock factor is developed based on the fitted curve, considering the scattering effect caused by the diameters of the submerged cylindrical shells. A set of numerical simulations are carried out to validate the accuracy of the proposed approach. The results show that the cylindrical shells and spherical shells under different conditions, but with the same shock factor, have almost the same shock responses.


Author(s):  
K. A. Belibassakis ◽  
Th. P. Gerostathis ◽  
G. A. Athanassoulis

In the present work, a complete, phase-resolving wave model is coupled with an iterative solver of the mean-flow equations in intermediate and shallow water depth, permitting an accurate calculation of wave set-up and wave-induced current in intermediate and shallow water environment with possibly steep bathymetric variations. The wave model is based on the consistent coupled-mode system of equations, developed by Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (1999) for the propagation of water waves in variable bathymetry regions. This model improves the predictions of the mild-slope equation, permitting the treatment of wave propagation in regions with steep bottom slope and/or large curvature. In addition, it supports the consistent calculation of wave velocity up to and including the bottom boundary. The above wave model has been further extended to include the effects of bottom friction and wave breaking, which are important factors for the calculation of radiation stresses on decreasing depth. The latter have been used as forcing terms to the mean flow equations in order to predict wave-induced set up and mean flow in open and closed domains. Numerical results obtained by the present model are presented and compared with predictions obtained by the mild-slope approximation (Massel & Gourlay 2000), and experimental data (Gourlay 1996).


2020 ◽  
Vol 2020.95 (0) ◽  
pp. 08_805
Author(s):  
Ryota SUEOKA ◽  
Takeru YANO ◽  
Masashi INABA
Keyword(s):  

Wave Motion ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 74 ◽  
pp. 73-92 ◽  
Author(s):  
K.A. Belibassakis ◽  
B. Simon ◽  
J. Touboul ◽  
V. Rey

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