Large-wave simulation of three-dimensional wave breaking over constant-slope beach

2010 ◽  
pp. 447-452
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Simulation ◽  
Slope Beach ◽  
Constant Slope ◽  
Dimensional Wave

scholarly journals LARGE-WAVE SIMULATION OF TURBULENT FLOW INDUCED BY WAVE PROPAGATION AND BREAKING OVER CONSTANT SLOPE BED

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 65
Author(s):  
Gerasimos Kolokythas ◽  
Aggelos Dimakopoulos ◽  
Athanassios Dimas
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Boundary Conditions ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Surface Boundary ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Simulation ◽  
Constant Slope ◽  
Good Agreement

In the present study, the three-dimensional, incompressible, turbulent, free-surface flow, developing by the propagation of nonlinear breaking waves over a rigid bed of constant slope, is numerically simulated. The main objective is to investigate the process of spilling wave breaking and the characteristics of the developing undertow current employing the large-wave simulation (LWS) method. According to LWS methodology, large velocity and free-surface scales are fully resolved, and subgrid scales are treated by an eddy viscosity model, similar to large-eddy simulation (LES) methodology. The simulations are based on the numerical solution of the unsteady, three-dimensional, Navier-Stokes equations subject to the fully-nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions and the appropriate bottom, inflow and outflow boundary conditions. The case of incoming second-order Stokes waves, normal to the shore, with wavelength to inflow depth ratio λ/dΙ = 6.6, wave steepness H/λ = 0.025, bed slope tanβ = 1/35 and Reynolds number (based on inflow water depth) Red = 250,000 is investigated. The predictions of the LWS model for the incipient wave breaking parameters - breaking depth and height - are in very good agreement with published experimental measurements. Profiles of the time-averaged horizontal velocity in the surf zone are also in good agreement with the corresponding measured ones, verifying the ability of the model to capture adequately the undertow current.

Numerical Simulation of Oblique Wave Breaking and Wave-Induced Currents in the Surf Zone

2014 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gerasimos A. Kolokythas ◽  
Athanassios A. Dimas
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Dimensional Structure ◽  
Maximum Magnitude ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Constant Slope

In the present study, the three-dimensional, incompressible, turbulent, free-surface flow, developing by the propagation and breaking of nonlinear gravity waves over a constant-slope beach, is numerically simulated. The main objective is to investigate the flow structure in the surf zone as a result of the interaction between the longshore and the undertow current, induced by spilling wave breaking, oblique to the shoreline. The simulations are performed employing the so-called large-wave simulation (LWS) method coupled with a numerical solver for the Navier-Stokes equations. According to the employed LWS methodology, large velocity and free-surface scales are fully resolved, while the effect of subgrid scales is modeled by eddy-viscosity stresses, similar to large-eddy simulation (LES) methodology. In order to validate our model, the case of incoming Stokes waves with wavelength to inflow depth ratio λ/dI ≈ 6.6 and wave steepness H/λ ≈ 0.025, propagating normal to the shore over a bed of constant slope 1/35, is investigated. Our results are compared to published experimental measurements, and it is found that the LWS model predicts adequately the wave breaking parameters — breaking height and depth — and the distribution of the undertow current in the surf zone. Two cases of oblique breaking waves, with inflow angles φI = 20° and 30°, and all other parameters identical to that of the validation case, are considered. The gradual breaking of the refracted waves is captured, as well as the three-dimensional structure of the flow in the surf zone. LWS-predicted profiles of the undertow and the longshore current at several positions in the surf zone, are presented. It is indicated that the undertow prevails in the outer surf zone, while the longshore current becomes stronger in the inner surf zone and reaches its maximum magnitude close to the shore.

Characteristics of Flow and Heat-and-Mass Transfer in a Falling Liquid Film With Three-Dimensional Interfacial Waves

2002 ◽  
Author(s):  
Takao Nagasaki ◽  
Hirokuni Akiyama ◽  
Hiroshi Nakagawa ◽  
Yutaka Ito
Keyword(s):  
Mass Transfer ◽  
Liquid Film ◽  
Heat And Mass Transfer ◽  
Mass Transfer Rate ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Calculated Mass ◽  
Dimensional Wave

Numerical simulations have been made on the flow and heat-and-mass transfer in a laminar liquid film falling down along a vertical wall by using a boundary-fitted coordinate system. The development of a two-dimensional wave was successfully predicted, which consists of a large solitary wave and ripple waves in front of it. In the large wave a circulating flow exists, and the heat and mass transfer is enhanced by the wave. Further, it was shown by a three-dimensional calculation that a two-dimensional wave becomes unstable with the increase of Re number, resulting in U-shaped three-dimensional wave. The mass transfer rate increases with the transition from two-dimensional to three-dimensional waves. The calculated mass transfer coefficient roughly agrees with empirical correlations.

scholarly journals BREAKING WAVE KINEMATICS, LOCAL PRESSURES, AND FORCES ON A TRIPOD STRUCTURE

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 71 ◽  
Author(s):  
Arndt Hildebrandt ◽  
Torsten Schlurmann
Keyword(s):  
Wave Front ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Model Tests ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wave Loads ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
The Impact

This paper presents breaking wave loads on a tripod structure from physical model tests and numerical simulations. The large scale model tests (1:12) are described as well as the validation of the three dimensional numerical model by comparison of CFD wave gauge data and pressures with measurements in the large wave flume inside and outside the impact area. Subsequently, the impact areas due to a broken wave, a curled wave front as well as for wave breaking directly at the structure with a partly vertical wave front are compared to each other. Line forces in terms of slamming coefficients with variation in time and space are derived from CFD results and the velocity distribution is presented at the onset of wave breaking. Finally, the results are briefly discussed in comparison to other slamming studies.

Large-Wave Simulation of Spilling Breakers Over Constant-Slope Bed

2008 ◽  
Author(s):  
Aggelos S. Dimakopoulos ◽  
Athanassios A. Dimas
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Euler Equations ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Simulation ◽  
Subgrid Scales ◽  
Constant Slope

A subgrid scale model is presented for the large-wave simulation (LWS) of spilling breaking waves over bottom of arbitrary shape and finite depth. According to LWS formulation, large velocity and free-surface scales are fully resolved, while subgrid scales are accounted for by an eddy viscosity model, similar to large-eddy simulation (LES). The LWS-based model is applied on the two-dimensional wave propagation over a constant-slope bed. Fluid motion is described by the Euler equations for inviscid but rotational flow, subject to the fully non-linear free-surface boundary conditions. The application of LWS is facilitated by a boundary-fitted transformation, which introduces free-surface elevation terms in the Euler equations and simplifies the numerical implementation. Subgrid velocity scales are modeled similarly to LES, while the effect of free-surface subgrid scales are modeled by wave SGS stresses model. The resulting equations are solved numerically by a two-stage fractional time-step scheme, while an absorption zone is placed in the outflow region to minimize reflection by the outgoing waves. The simulation is carried out for the propagation and breaking of waves over a flat bed with constant slope 1/35 and results are compared to available experimental data. The numerical predictions for the breaking height, the breaking depth and the free-surface elevation dissipation in the surf zone agree very well with the corresponding measurements. The model predicts the vorticity generation in the breaking face of the wave and the appearance of the undertow current in the surf zone. The predicted shear of the undertow current is higher than the measured one.

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