Modeling the Effect of Shelter in the Modification of Waves From the Open Sea to Near-Shore

1997 ◽  
Vol 119 (1) ◽  
pp. 70-72 ◽  
Author(s):  
H. Oliveira-Pires ◽  
F. Carvalho ◽  
T. Pontes

An efficient method has been developed to compute the wave conditions in sheltered areas from the open sea directional spectrum using a reverse tracing wave ray model with weighted spectral filtering. The results were verified for Porto Cachorro—Azores, surrounded by several islands with an intricate geometry, and for Sines, at the west coast of Portugal. The range of applicability of this type of ray model seems to lie at the transition between the open sea, well represented through large-scale wind-wave models, and the zones close to shore where shallow water wave breaking (not represented in the model) begins to play a dominant and decisive role.

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 264
Author(s):  
Shanti Bhushan ◽  
Oumnia El Fajri ◽  
Graham Hubbard ◽  
Bradley Chambers ◽  
Christopher Kees

This study evaluates the capability of Navier–Stokes solvers in predicting forward and backward plunging breaking, including assessment of the effect of grid resolution, turbulence model, and VoF, CLSVoF interface models on predictions. For this purpose, 2D simulations are performed for four test cases: dam break, solitary wave run up on a slope, flow over a submerged bump, and solitary wave over a submerged rectangular obstacle. Plunging wave breaking involves high wave crest, plunger formation, and splash up, followed by second plunger, and chaotic water motions. Coarser grids reasonably predict the wave breaking features, but finer grids are required for accurate prediction of the splash up events. However, instabilities are triggered at the air–water interface (primarily for the air flow) on very fine grids, which induces surface peel-off or kinks and roll-up of the plunger tips. Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) turbulence models result in high eddy-viscosity in the air–water region which decays the fluid momentum and adversely affects the predictions. Both VoF and CLSVoF methods predict the large-scale plunging breaking characteristics well; however, they vary in the prediction of the finer details. The CLSVoF solver predicts the splash-up event and secondary plunger better than the VoF solver; however, the latter predicts the plunger shape better than the former for the solitary wave run-up on a slope case.


2021 ◽  
pp. 17-28
Author(s):  
A. V. Gochakov ◽  
◽  
O. Yu. Antokhina ◽  
V. N. Krupchatnikov ◽  
Yu. V. Martynova ◽  
...  

Many large-scale dynamic phenomena in the Earth’s atmosphere are associated with the processes of propagation and breaking of Rossby waves. A new method for identifying the Rossby wave breaking (RWB) is proposed. It is based on the detection of breakings centers by analyzing the shape of the contours of potential vorticity or temperature on quasimaterial surfaces: isentropic and iserthelic (surfaces of constant Ertel potential vorticity (PV)), with further RWB center clustering to larger regions. The method is applied to the set of constant PV levels (0.3 to 9.8 PVU with a step of 0.5 PVU) at the level of potential temperature of 350 K for 12:00 UTC. The ERA-Interim reanalysis data from 1979 to 2019 are used for the method development. The type of RWB (cyclonic/anticyclonic), its area and center are determined by analyzing the vortex geometry at each PV level for every day. The RWBs obtained at this stage are designated as elementary breakings. Density-Based Spatial Clustering of Applications with Noise algorithm (DBSCAN) was applied to all elementary breakings for each month. As a result, a graphic dataset describing locations and dynamics of RWBs for every month from 1979 to 2019 is formed. The RWB frequency is also evaluated for each longitude, taking into account the duration of each RWB and the number of levels involved, as well as the anomalies of these parameters.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alexander Kandaurov ◽  
Yuliya Troitskaya ◽  
Vasiliy Kazakov ◽  
Daniil Sergeev

<p>Whitecap coverage were retrieved from high-speed video recordings of the water surface obtained on the unique laboratory faculty The Large Thermostratified Test Tank with wind-wave channel (cross-section from 0.7×0.7 to 0.7×0.9 m<sup>2</sup> at the end, 12 m fetch, wind velocity up to 35 m/s, U<sub>10</sub> up to 65 m/s). The wind wave was induced using a wave generator installed at the beginning of the channel (a submerged horizontal plate, frequency 1.042 Hz, amplitude 93 mm) working in a pulsed operation (three periods). Wave breaking was induced in working area by a submerged plate (1.2×0.7 m<sup>2</sup>, up to 12 depth, AOA -11,7°). Experiments were carried out for equivalent wind velocities U<sub>10</sub> from 17.8 to 40.1 m/s. Wire wave gauge was used to control the shape and phase of the incident wave.</p><p>To obtain the surface area occupied by wave breaking, we used two Cygnet CY2MP-CL-SN cameras with 50 mm lenses. The cameras are installed above the channel at a height of 273 cm from the water surface, separated by 89 cm. The image scale was 302 μm/px, the size of the image obtained from each camera is 2048x1088 px<sup>2</sup>, which corresponds to 619x328 mm<sup>2</sup> (the long side of the frame along the channel). The shooting was carried out with a frequency of 50 Hz, an exposure time of 3 ms, 250 frames were recorded for each wave train. To illuminate the image areas to the side of the measurement area, a diffuse screen was placed on the side wall, which was illuminated by powerful LED lamps to create a uniform illumination source covering the entire side wall of the section.</p><p>Using specially developed software for automatic detection of areas of wave breaking, the values of the whitecap coverage area were obtained. Automatic image processing was performed using morphological analysis in combination with manual processing of part of the frames for tweaking the algorithm parameters: for each mode, manual processing of several frames was performed, based on the results of which automatic algorithm parameters were selected to ensure that the resulting whitecap coverage corresponded. Comparison of images obtained from different angles made it possible to detect and exclude areas of glare on the surface from the whitecap coverage.</p><p>The repeatability of the created wave breakings allows carrying out independent measurements for the same conditions, for example the parameters of spray generation will give estimations of the average number of fragmentation events per unit area of the wave breaking area.</p><p>The work was supported by the RFBR grants 21-55-50005 and 20-05-00322 (conducting an experiment), President grant for young scientists МК-5503.2021.1.5 (software development) and the RSF grant No. 19-17-00209 (data processing).</p>


Author(s):  
Xiaomeng Dong ◽  
Zhijian Zhang ◽  
Zhaofei Tian ◽  
Lei Li ◽  
Guangliang Chen

Multi-physics coupling analysis is one of the most important fields among the analysis of nuclear power plant. The basis of multi-physics coupling is the coupling between neutronics and thermal-hydraulic because it plays a decisive role in the computation of reactor power, outlet temperature of the reactor core and pressure of vessel, which determines the economy and security of the nuclear power plant. This paper develops a coupling method which uses OPENFOAM and the REMARK code. OPENFOAM is a 3-dimension CFD open-source code for thermal-hydraulic, and the REMARK code (produced by GSE Systems) is a real-time simulation multi-group core model for neutronics while it solves diffusion equations. Additionally, a coupled computation using these two codes is new and has not been done. The method is tested and verified using data of the QINSHAN Phase II typical nuclear reactor which will have 16 × 121 elements. The coupled code has been modified to adapt unlimited CPUs after parallelization. With the further development and additional testing, this coupling method has the potential to extend to a more large-scale and accurate computation.


2002 ◽  
Vol 59 (12) ◽  
pp. 1845-1850 ◽  
Author(s):  
Luc A Comeau ◽  
Steven E Campana ◽  
Martin Castonguay

The migration patterns of marine fishes are poorly known, in part owing to the technical limitations associated with tracking the movements of animals in deep water. Here we document a large-scale, directed, migration of Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) off eastern Canada. Our approach was based on the acoustic tagging of 126 fish and the deployment of 69 subsurface receivers, stretching over a 160-km distance along the edge of the Laurentian Channel. After 1 year of automated recording, we found that 65% of the fish migrated out of coastal waters in two distinct runs during the summer–autumn period. The offshore-migrating fish overwintered in deep Laurentian Channel waters, returning inshore in April. Individual migration routes and migration timing were variable, indicating that the cod did not aggregate in large schools during the seasonal migration events.


Climate ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (12) ◽  
pp. 168
Author(s):  
Julien Boucharel ◽  
Loane Santiago ◽  
Rafael Almar ◽  
Elodie Kestenare

At first order, wind-generated ocean surface waves represent the dominant forcing of open-coast morpho-dynamics and associated vulnerability over a wide range of time scales. It is therefore paramount to improve our understanding of the regional coastal wave variability, particularly the occurrence of extremes, and to evaluate how they are connected to large-scale atmospheric regimes. Here, we propose a new “2-ways wave tracking algorithm” to evaluate and quantify the open-ocean origins and associated atmospheric forcing patterns of coastal wave extremes all around the Pacific basin for the 1979–2020 period. Interestingly, the results showed that while extreme coastal events tend to originate mostly from their closest wind-forcing regime, the combined influence from all other remote atmospheric drivers is similar (55% local vs. 45% remote) with, in particular, ~22% coming from waves generated remotely in the opposite hemisphere. We found a strong interconnection between the tropical and extratropical regions with around 30% of coastal extremes in the tropics originating at higher latitudes and vice-versa. This occurs mostly in the boreal summer through the increased seasonal activity of the southern jet-stream and the northern tropical cyclone basins. At interannual timescales, we evidenced alternatingly increased coastal wave extremes between the western and eastern Pacific that emerge from the distinct seasonal influence of ENSO in the Northern and SAM in the Southern Hemisphere on their respective paired wind-wave regimes. Together these results pave the way for a better understanding of the climate connection to wave extremes, which represents the preliminary step toward better regional projections and forecasts of coastal waves.


2019 ◽  
Vol 25 (6) ◽  
Author(s):  
A. E. Korinenko ◽  
V. V. Malinovsky ◽  
V. N. Kudryavtsev ◽  
◽  
◽  
...  

1993 ◽  
Vol 49 (2) ◽  
pp. 149-172 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sheng-Chang Wen ◽  
Pei-Fang Guo ◽  
Da-Cuo Zhang ◽  
Chang-Long Guan ◽  
Hai-Gang Zhan

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