Wave Crest Kinematics of Deep Water Breaking Waves

Author(s):  
Pål F. Lader ◽  
Dag Myrhaug ◽  
Bjo/rnar Pettersen
Keyword(s):  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
pp. 76
Author(s):  
Duoc Nguyen ◽  
Niels Jacobsen ◽  
Dano Roelvink

This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is employed to derive a set of quasi-Eulerian mean three-dimensional equations of motion, where effects of the waves are included through source terms. The obtained equations are expressed to the second-order of wave amplitude. Whereas the classical Eulerian-mean equations of motion are only applicable below the wave trough, the new equations are valid until the mean water surface even in the presence of finite-amplitude surface waves. A two-dimensional numerical model (2DV model) is developed to validate the new set of equations of motion. The 2DV model passes the test of steady monochromatic waves propagating over a slope without dissipation (adiabatic condition). This is a primary test for equations of mean motion with a known analytical solution. In addition to this, experimental data for the interaction between random waves and a mean current in both non-breaking and breaking waves are employed to validate the 2DV model. As shown by this successful implementation and validation, the implementation of these equations in any 3D model code is straightforward and may be expected to provide consistent results from deep water to the surf zone, under both weak and strong ambient currents.


1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 25 ◽  
Author(s):  
Edward B. Thornton ◽  
James J. Galvin ◽  
Frank L. Bub ◽  
David P. Richardson

The sight and sound of breaking waves and surf is so familiar and enjoyable that we tend to forget how little we really understand about them. Why is it, that compared to other branches of wave studies our knowledge of breaking waves is so empirical and inexact? The reason must lie partly in the difficulty of finding a precise mathematical description of a fluid flow that is in general nonlinear and time-dependent. The fluid accelerations can no longer be assumed t o be small compared t o gravity, as in Stokes's theory for periodic waves and the theory of cnoidal waves in shallow water, nor is the particle velocity any longer small compared to the phase velocity. The aim of this paper is to bring together s ome recent contributions to the calculation both of steep symmetric waves and of time-dependent surface waves. These have a bearing on the behaviour of whitecaps in deep water and of surf in the breaker zone . Since spilling breakers in gently shoaling water closely resemble solitary waves, we begin with the description of solitary waves of limiting amplitude, then discuss steep waves of arbitrary height. The observed intermittency of whitecaps is discussed in terms of the energy maximum, as a function of wave steepness, In Sections 6 and 7 a simpler description of steady symmetric waves is proposed, using an asymptotic expression for the flow near the wave crest. Finally we describe a new numerical technique (MEL, or mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian) with which it has been found possible to follow the development of periodic waves past the point when overturning takes place. Measurement of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made of spilling, plunging and surging breakers at sandy beaches in the vicinity of Monterey, California. The measured breaking waves, derived characteristically from swell-type waves, can be described as highly nonlinear. Spectra and cross spectra were calculated between waves and velocities. Secondary waves were noted visually and by the strong harmonics in the spectra. The strength of the harmonics is related to the beach steepness, wave height and period. The phase difference between waves and horizontal velocities indicates the unstable crest of the wave leads the velocities on the average by 5-20 degrees. Phase measurements between wave gauges in a line perpendicular to the shore show breaking waves to be frequency nondispersive indicating phase-coupling of the various wave components. The coherence squared values between the sea surface elevation and the horizontal water particle velocity were high in all runs, ranging above 0.8 at the peak of the spectra. The high coherence suggests that most of the motion in the body of breaking waves is wave-induced and not turbulent.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ting Cui ◽  
Arun Kamath ◽  
Weizhi Wang ◽  
Lihao Yuan ◽  
Duanfeng Han ◽  
...  

Abstract The correct estimation of wave loading on a cylinder in a cylinder group under different impact scenarios is essential to determine the structural safety of coastal and offshore structures. This scenario differs from the interaction of waves with a single cylinder but not a lot of studies focus on cylinder groups under different arrangements. In this study, the interaction between plunging breaking waves and cylinder groups in deep water is investigated using the two-phase flow model in REEF3D, an open-source computational fluid dynamics program. The Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equation with the two equation k–Ω turbulence model is adopted to resolve the numerical wave tank, with free surface calculated using the level set method. In this study, focused waves in deep water were modeled with a fixed wave steepness method. Wave breaking occurs when the steepness of the wave crest front satisfies the breaking criteria. The model is validated by comparing the numerical wave forces and free surface elevation with measurements from experiments. The computational results show fairly good agreement with experimental data for both free surface elevation and wave forces. Four cases are simulated to investigate the interaction of breaking waves with a cylinder group with different relative distance, number of cylinders and arrangement. Results show that breaking wave forces on the upstream cylinder are smaller than on a single cylinder with a relative distance of one cylinder diameter. The wave forces on cylinders in the pile group are effected by the relative distance between cylinders. The staggered arrangement has a significant influence on the wave forces on the first and second cylinder. The interaction inside a cylinder group mostly happens between the neighbouring cylinders. These interactions are also effected by the relative distance and the numbers of the neighbouring cylinders.


2019 ◽  
Vol 69 (10) ◽  
pp. 1165-1179
Author(s):  
Fadia Ticona Rollano ◽  
Adam Brown ◽  
Ashley Ellenson ◽  
H. Tuba Özkan-Haller ◽  
Jim Thomson ◽  
...  

2015 ◽  
Vol 120 (3) ◽  
pp. 2007-2049 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ho-Joon Lim ◽  
Kuang-An Chang ◽  
Zhi-Cheng Huang ◽  
Byoungjoon Na

2018 ◽  
Vol 48 (1) ◽  
pp. 3-27 ◽  
Author(s):  
Peter P. Sullivan ◽  
Michael L. Banner ◽  
Russel P. Morison ◽  
William L. Peirson

AbstractTurbulent flow over strongly forced steep steady and unsteady waves is simulated using large-eddy simulation (LES) with time t and space x varying wave height h(x, t) imposed as a lower boundary condition. With steady waves, h(x, t) is based on measurements of incipient and active breaking waves collected in a wind-wave flume, while a numerical wave code is used to generate an unsteady evolving wave packet (group). Highly intermittent airflow separation is found in the simulations, and the results suggest separation near a wave crest occurs prior to the onset of wave breaking. The form (pressure) drag is most sensitive to the wave slope, and the form drag can contribute as much as 74% to the total stress. Wind and scalar profiles from the LES display log-linear variations above the wave surface; the LES wind profiles are in good agreement with the measurements. The momentum roughness increases as the water surface changes from wind ripples to incipient breaking to active breaking. However, the scalar roughness decreases as the wave surface becomes rougher. This highlights major differences in momentum and scalar transport over a rough wavy surface. For a rapidly evolving, strongly forced wave group, the form drag is highly correlated with the wave slope, and intermittent separation is found early in the packet evolution when the local wave slope −∂h/∂x(x, t) ≥ 0.22. The packet root-mean-square wave slope is 0.084, but the form drag fraction is 2.4 times larger than a comparably forced steady wave. Thus, a passing wave group can induce unsteadiness in the wind stress.


1996 ◽  
Vol 101 (C7) ◽  
pp. 16515-16531 ◽  
Author(s):  
Owen M. Griffin ◽  
Rodney D. Peltzer ◽  
Henry T. Wang ◽  
William W. Schultz

Author(s):  
Gu¨nther F. Clauss ◽  
Robert Stu¨ck ◽  
Florian Stempinski ◽  
Christian E. Schmittner

For the analysis of loads and motions of marine structures in harsh seaways precise information about the hydrodynamics of waves is required. While the surface motion of waves can easily be measured in physical wave tanks other critical characteristics such as the instantaneous particle velocity and acceleration as well as the pressure field, especially under the wave crest are difficult and time-consuming to obtain. Therefore a new method is presented to approximate the wave potential of a given instantaneous wave contour. Numerical methods — so called numerical wave tanks (NWTs) — are developed to provide the desired insight into wave hydrodynamics. A potential theory method based on the Finite Element method (Pot/FE), a RANSE (Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes Equations) method applying VOF (Volume of Fluid) and a combination of both is utilized for the simulation of different model wave trains. The coupling of both CFD (computational fluid dynamics) solvers is a useful approach to benefit from the advantages of the two different methods: The Pot/FE solver WAVETUB (wave simulation code developed at Technical University Berlin) allows a very fast and accurate simulation of the propagation of nonbreaking waves while the RANSE/VOF solver has the capability of simulating breaking waves. Two different breaking criteria for the detection of wave breaking are implemented in WAVETUB for triggering the automated coupling process by data transfer at the interface. It is shown that an efficient method for the simulation of breaking wave trains including wave-structure interaction in 2D and 3D is established by the coupling of both CFD codes. All results are discussed in detail.


2013 ◽  
Vol 734 ◽  
pp. 198-218 ◽  
Author(s):  
N. E. Pizzo ◽  
W. Kendall Melville

AbstractThe connection between wave dissipation by breaking deep-water surface gravity waves and the resulting turbulence and mixing is crucial for an improved understanding of air–sea interaction processes. Starting with the ensemble-averaged Euler equations, governing the evolution of the mean flow, we model the forcing, associated with the breaking-induced Reynolds shear stresses, as a body force describing the bulk scale effects of a breaking deep-water surface gravity wave on the water column. From this, we derive an equation describing the generation of circulation, $\Gamma $, of the ensemble-average velocity field, due to the body force. By examining the relationship between a breaking wave and an impulsively forced fluid, we propose a functional form for the body force, allowing us to build upon the classical work on vortex ring phenomena to both quantify the circulation generated by a breaking wave and describe the vortex structure of the induced motion. Using scaling arguments, we show that $\Gamma = \alpha {(hk)}^{3/ 2} {c}^{3} / g$, where ($c, h, k$) represent a characteristic speed, height and wavenumber of the breaking wave, respectively, $g$ is the acceleration due to gravity and $\alpha $ is a constant. This then allows us to find a direct relationship between the circulation and the wave energy dissipation rate per unit crest length due to breaking, ${\epsilon }_{l} $. Finally, we compare our model and the available experimental data.


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