Kinematic and dynamic evolution of deep water breaking waves

1996 ◽  
Vol 101 (C7) ◽  
pp. 16515-16531 ◽  
Author(s):  
Owen M. Griffin ◽  
Rodney D. Peltzer ◽  
Henry T. Wang ◽  
William W. Schultz
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Dynamic Evolution

scholarly journals Development and Validation of Quasi-Eulerian Mean Three-Dimensional Equations of Motion Using the Generalized Lagrangian Mean Method

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
pp. 76
Author(s):  
Duoc Nguyen ◽  
Niels Jacobsen ◽  
Dano Roelvink
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Successful Implementation ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Mean Motion ◽  
Generalized Lagrangian

This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is employed to derive a set of quasi-Eulerian mean three-dimensional equations of motion, where effects of the waves are included through source terms. The obtained equations are expressed to the second-order of wave amplitude. Whereas the classical Eulerian-mean equations of motion are only applicable below the wave trough, the new equations are valid until the mean water surface even in the presence of finite-amplitude surface waves. A two-dimensional numerical model (2DV model) is developed to validate the new set of equations of motion. The 2DV model passes the test of steady monochromatic waves propagating over a slope without dissipation (adiabatic condition). This is a primary test for equations of mean motion with a known analytical solution. In addition to this, experimental data for the interaction between random waves and a mean current in both non-breaking and breaking waves are employed to validate the 2DV model. As shown by this successful implementation and validation, the implementation of these equations in any 3D model code is straightforward and may be expected to provide consistent results from deep water to the surf zone, under both weak and strong ambient currents.

Focused Plunging Breaking Waves Impact on Cylinder Group in Deep Water

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ting Cui ◽  
Arun Kamath ◽  
Weizhi Wang ◽  
Lihao Yuan ◽  
Duanfeng Han ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Relative Distance ◽  
Structural Safety ◽  
Wave Forces ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Single Cylinder ◽  
Numerical Wave

Abstract The correct estimation of wave loading on a cylinder in a cylinder group under different impact scenarios is essential to determine the structural safety of coastal and offshore structures. This scenario differs from the interaction of waves with a single cylinder but not a lot of studies focus on cylinder groups under different arrangements. In this study, the interaction between plunging breaking waves and cylinder groups in deep water is investigated using the two-phase flow model in REEF3D, an open-source computational fluid dynamics program. The Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equation with the two equation k–Ω turbulence model is adopted to resolve the numerical wave tank, with free surface calculated using the level set method. In this study, focused waves in deep water were modeled with a fixed wave steepness method. Wave breaking occurs when the steepness of the wave crest front satisfies the breaking criteria. The model is validated by comparing the numerical wave forces and free surface elevation with measurements from experiments. The computational results show fairly good agreement with experimental data for both free surface elevation and wave forces. Four cases are simulated to investigate the interaction of breaking waves with a cylinder group with different relative distance, number of cylinders and arrangement. Results show that breaking wave forces on the upstream cylinder are smaller than on a single cylinder with a relative distance of one cylinder diameter. The wave forces on cylinders in the pile group are effected by the relative distance between cylinders. The staggered arrangement has a significant influence on the wave forces on the first and second cylinder. The interaction inside a cylinder group mostly happens between the neighbouring cylinders. These interactions are also effected by the relative distance and the numbers of the neighbouring cylinders.

scholarly journals Breaking waves in deep water: measurements and modeling of energy dissipation

2019 ◽  
Vol 69 (10) ◽  
pp. 1165-1179
Author(s):  
Fadia Ticona Rollano ◽  
Adam Brown ◽  
Ashley Ellenson ◽  
H. Tuba Özkan-Haller ◽  
Jim Thomson ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Breaking Waves

scholarly journals Experimental study on plunging breaking waves in deep water

2015 ◽  
Vol 120 (3) ◽  
pp. 2007-2049 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ho-Joon Lim ◽  
Kuang-An Chang ◽  
Zhi-Cheng Huang ◽  
Byoungjoon Na
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Study ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Breaking Waves

scholarly journals Vortex generation by deep-water breaking waves

2013 ◽  
Vol 734 ◽  
pp. 198-218 ◽  
Author(s):  
N. E. Pizzo ◽  
W. Kendall Melville
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Body Force ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
The Body ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Shear Stresses ◽  
Mean Flow

AbstractThe connection between wave dissipation by breaking deep-water surface gravity waves and the resulting turbulence and mixing is crucial for an improved understanding of air–sea interaction processes. Starting with the ensemble-averaged Euler equations, governing the evolution of the mean flow, we model the forcing, associated with the breaking-induced Reynolds shear stresses, as a body force describing the bulk scale effects of a breaking deep-water surface gravity wave on the water column. From this, we derive an equation describing the generation of circulation, $\Gamma $, of the ensemble-average velocity field, due to the body force. By examining the relationship between a breaking wave and an impulsively forced fluid, we propose a functional form for the body force, allowing us to build upon the classical work on vortex ring phenomena to both quantify the circulation generated by a breaking wave and describe the vortex structure of the induced motion. Using scaling arguments, we show that $\Gamma = \alpha {(hk)}^{3/ 2} {c}^{3} / g$, where ($c, h, k$) represent a characteristic speed, height and wavenumber of the breaking wave, respectively, $g$ is the acceleration due to gravity and $\alpha $ is a constant. This then allows us to find a direct relationship between the circulation and the wave energy dissipation rate per unit crest length due to breaking, ${\epsilon }_{l} $. Finally, we compare our model and the available experimental data.

scholarly journals Laboratory Study on the Characteristics of Deep-water Breaking Waves

2015 ◽  
Vol 116 ◽  
pp. 414-421 ◽  
Author(s):  
Liang Shuxiu ◽  
Sun Zhaochena ◽  
Zhang Yihui ◽  
Shen Jiafa ◽  
Zhang Yifei
Keyword(s):  
Laboratory Study ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Breaking Waves

Wave Crest Kinematics of Deep Water Breaking Waves

2001 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pål F. Lader ◽  
Dag Myrhaug ◽  
Bjo/rnar Pettersen
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Crest

scholarly journals Remote Sensing Observations of Dominant Breaking Waves in Intermediate to Deep Water from a Lighthouse During Storm Conditions

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Caio Eadi Stringari ◽  
Jean-François Filipot ◽  
Fabien Leckler ◽  
Rui Duarte
Keyword(s):  
Remote Sensing ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Rogue Waves ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Offshore Structures ◽  
Video Data ◽  
Occurrence Rate ◽  
Winter Storms ◽  
Technical Issues

Wave breaking is one of the most important yet poorly understood water wave phenomena. It is via wave breaking that waves dissipate most of their energy and the occurrence of wave breaking directly influences several environmental processes, from ocean-atmosphere gas exchanges to beach morphodynamics. Large breaking waves also represent a major threat for navigation and for the survivability of offshore structures. This paper provides a systematic search for intermediate to deep water breaking waves with particular focus on the elusive occurrence of plunging breakers. Using modern remote sensing and deep learning techniques, we identify and track the evolution of over four thousand unique wave breaking events using video data collected from La Jument lighthouse during ten North Atlantic winter storms. Out of all identified breaking waves (Nb=4683), ≈22% were dominant breaking waves, that is, waves that have speeds within [0.77cp, 1.43cp], where cp is the peak wave speed. Correlations between the occurrence rate of dominant breaking waves (that is, waves per area and time per peak wave period) and wave steepness and wave age were observed. As expected, the number of identified plunging waves was small and six waves of all detected breaking waves, or 0.13%, could undoubtedly be considered as plunging waves. Two waves were also identified as unusually large, or rogue waves. Although afflicted by several technical issues, the data presented here provides a good indication that the probability of occurrence of plunging waves should be better incorporated into the design of offshore structures, particularly the ones that aim to harvest energy in offshore environments.

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