Mutton Dressed as Lamb? Fashioning Age in Georgian England

2013 ◽  
Vol 52 (4) ◽  
pp. 858-886 ◽  
Author(s):  
Amanda Vickery

AbstractDespite an established literature on gender, consumerism, and dress, there is almost no research on fashion and the life cycle. Meanwhile, the historiography on aging has addressed stigma, physicality, and sexuality, though only tangentially the manufacture of femininity through clothes. This article links the two separate historiographies. It is concerned with the ongoing fabrication of mature femininity through fashionable clothes, and the paradoxes inherent in that performance. The misogynist attack on dressy older women was pungent, but mature women still had to clothe themselves. Accusations of frolicking in a lamb fashion were mortifying, but keeping up appearances was vital too. This article examines the interplay of age and fashion, re-creating the distinctive way women of the middling ranks and lesser gentry negotiated the pitfalls of dressing past their prime, charting a perilous course between indignity and scorn on the one hand and invisibility on the other. Perceptions of age and aging bore unevenly on women and men. Nevertheless, conviction about the decorum of female sartorial retirement once the blush was off the peach and savage portrayals of hideous physical decline were counterbalanced by the blandishments of the market itself. Cumulatively, the Georgian marketplace tended to endorse the public profiles of older women, suggesting a galaxy of imagined performances that overwhelmed the misogynist discourse arguing for their obliteration.

APRIA Journal ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 11-16
Author(s):  
José Teunissen

In the last few years, it has often been said that the current fashion system is outdated, still operating by a twentieth-century model that celebrates the individualism of the 'star designer'. In I- D, Sarah Mower recently stated that for the last twenty years, fashion has been at a cocktail party and has completely lost any connection with the public and daily life. On the one hand, designers and big brands experience the enormous pressure to produce new collections at an ever higher pace, leaving less room for reflection, contemplation, and innovation. On the other hand, there is the continuous race to produce at even lower costs and implement more rapid life cycles, resulting in disastrous consequences for society and the environment.


Author(s):  
Mohammad Al-Bsheish ◽  
Mu’taman Jarrar ◽  
Amanda Scarbrough

The outbreak of COVID-19 has placed a heavy burden on society, threatening the future of the entire world as the pandemic has hit health systems and economic sectors hard. Where time moves fast, continuing curfews and lockdown is impossible. This paper assembles three main safety behaviors, social distancing, wearing a facemask, and hygiene in one model (PSC Triangle) to be practiced by the public. Integrating public safety compliance with these behaviors is the main recommendation to slow the spread of COVID-19. Although some concerns and challenges face these practices, the shifting of public behaviors to be more safety-centered is appropriate and available as an urgent desire exists to return to normal life on the one hand and the medical effort to find effective cure or vaccine that has not yet succeeded on the other hand. Recommendations to enhance public safety compliance are provided.


2021 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
pp. 519-539
Author(s):  
Thiago Minete Cardozo ◽  
Costas Papadopoulos

Abstract Museums have been increasingly investing in their digital presence. This became more pressing during the COVID-19 pandemic since heritage institutions had, on the one hand, to temporarily close their doors to visitors while, on the other, find ways to communicate their collections to the public. Virtual tours, revamped websites, and 3D models of cultural artefacts were only a few of the means that museums devised to create alternative ways of digital engagement and counteract the physical and social distancing measures. Although 3D models and collections provide novel ways to interact, visualise, and comprehend the materiality and sensoriality of physical objects, their mediation in digital forms misses essential elements that contribute to (virtual) visitor/user experience. This article explores three-dimensional digitisations of museum artefacts, particularly problematising their aura and authenticity in comparison to their physical counterparts. Building on several studies that have problematised these two concepts, this article establishes an exploratory framework aimed at evaluating the experience of aura and authenticity in 3D digitisations. This exploration allowed us to conclude that even though some aspects of aura and authenticity are intrinsically related to the physicality and materiality of the original, 3D models can still manifest aura and authenticity, as long as a series of parameters, including multimodal contextualisation, interactivity, and affective experiences are facilitated.


2021 ◽  
Vol 29 (1) ◽  
pp. 36-61
Author(s):  
Michael Poznic ◽  
Rafaela Hillerbrand

Climatologists have recently introduced a distinction between projections as scenario-based model results on the one hand and predictions on the other hand. The interpretation and usage of both terms is, however, not univocal. It is stated that the ambiguities of the interpretations may cause problems in the communication of climate science within the scientific community and to the public realm. This paper suggests an account of scenarios as props in games of make-belive. With this account, we explain the difference between projections that should be make-believed and other model results that should be believed.


2020 ◽  
pp. 292-344
Author(s):  
Vuk Vukotić

This article compares the language ideologies of language experts (both academic and non-academic) in online news media in Lithuania, Norway and Serbia. The results will reveal that language is understood in diametrically opposed ways amongst Lithuanian and Serbian academic experts on the one, and Norwegian academic experts on the other hand. Lithuanian and Serbian academic experts are influenced by modernist ideas of language as a single, homogenous entity, whose borders ideally match the borders of an ethnic group. Norwegian academic experts function in the public sphere as those who try to deconstruct the modernist notion of language by employing an understanding of language as a cognitive tool that performs communicative and other functions. On the other hand, non-academic experts in all the three countries exhibit a striking similarity in their language ideologies, as the great majority expresses modernist ideals of language.


Genetics ◽  
1977 ◽  
Vol 87 (3) ◽  
pp. 401-420
Author(s):  
Paul N Adler ◽  
Charles E Holt

ABSTRACT Rare plasmodia formed in clones of heterothallic amoebae were analyzed in a search for mutations affecting plasmodium formation. The results show that the proportion of mutants varies with both temperature (18°, 26° or 30°) and mating-type allele (mt1, mt2, mt3, mt4). At one extreme, only one of 33 plasmoida formed by mt2 amoebae at 18° is mutant. At the other extreme, three of three plasmodia formed by mt1 amoebae at 30° are mutant. The mutant plasmodia fall into two groups, the GAD (greater asexual differentiation) mutants and the ALC (amoebaless life cycle) mutants. The spores of GAD mutants give rise to amoebae that differentiate into plasmodia asexually at much higher frequencies than normal heterothallic amoebae. Seven of eight gad mutations analyzed genetically are linked to mt and one (gad-12) is not. The gad-12 mutation is expressed in strains with different alleles of mt. The frequency of asexual plasmodium formation is heat sensitive in some (e.g., mt3 gad-11), heat-insensitive in two (mt2 gad-8 and mt2 gad-9) and cold-sensitive in one (mt1 gad-12) of twelve GAD mutants analyzed phenotypically. The spores of ALC mutants give rise to plasmodia directly, thereby circumventing the amoebal phase of the life cycle. Spores from five of the seven ALC mutants give rise to occasional amoebae, as well as plasmodia. The amoebae from one of the mutants carry a mutation (alc-1) that is unlinked to mt and is responsible for the ALC phenotype in this mutant. Like gad-12, alc-1 is expressed with different mt alleles. Preliminary observations with amoebae from the other four ALC mutants suggest that two are similar to the one containing alc-1; one gives rise to revertant amoebae, and one gives rise to amoebae carrying an alc mutation and a suppressor of the mutation.


Author(s):  
Gabriel Giorgi

Resumen: Distintas intervenciones desde prácticas activistas y culturales en torno al VIH escenifican poéticas y políticas del resto corporal en las que se juegan, por un lado, una reorganización de los modos en que se dramatiza en umbral entre lo vivo y lo muerto en lo público –redefiniendo así el tejido mismo de lo que llamamos “comunidad”—; y por otro, indican los modos en que estos activismos impulsan una disputa sobre los “marcos de temporalización” desde los cuales lo viviente se vuelve reconocible políticamente y donde la noción de supervivencia adquiere una centralidad decisiva. Combinando materiales heterogéneos el artículo busca iluminar los modos en que los activismos y las culturas en torno al VIH configuran un terreno decisivo para pensar políticas de la supervivencia del presente. Palabras clave: VIH, ACT-UP, Supervivencia, Temporalidades, Biopolítica. Abstract: Different interventions from activist and cultural practices around HIV staged poetics and politics of the body remmant. They implie, on the one hand, a reorganitzation of the dramatization of the threshold between the living and the dead in the public space; and on the other, they indicate the ways in which these activisms mobilize a dispute over the “frames of temporalization” from which the living becomes politically recognizable and where the notion of survival acquires a decisive centrality. Combining heterogeneous materials, the article seeks to illuminate the ways in which activism and cultures on HIV constitute a decisive ground for thinking about the present policies of survival. Keywords: IHV, ACT-UP, Survival, Biopolitics.


2017 ◽  
Vol 105 (5-6) ◽  
pp. 516
Author(s):  
Guilhem Grimaud ◽  
Bertrand Laratte ◽  
Nicolas Perry

The purpose of this study is to determine the environmental and economic balance between a collection of waste requiring the transport to a centralized recycling plant versus the displacement of a recycling plant near the waste production’s location. Two systems are compared in the study with economic and environmental Life cycle analysis (LCC and LCA) tools. The first one considers a centralized recycling plant that gathers batch of cables from different locations in Europe. The second scenario considers a transportable recycling plant, the Cablebox (designed by MTB Manufacturing), which is regularly carried to be close to the waste deposit to recycle waste cables. On the one hand, the study demonstrates huge environmental benefits for transportable recycling plants in comparison with the centralized system. The overall environmental impact is halved on the climate change indicator. On the other hand, the results show the economic advantages of such solution. The treatment cost per ton of recycling is reduced by 5 to 8%. Transportable recycling solutions seem to be a good answer to solve End-of-Life logistic issues, both from an economic and an environmental point of view.


2019 ◽  
Vol 4 (2) ◽  
pp. 214-221
Author(s):  
Wardah Nuroniyah

Hijab (veil) for female Muslims has been subject to a debate regarding its meanings. On the one hand, it represents the virtue of religious obedience and piety. Still, on the other hand, it is associated with the form of women oppressions in the public domain. At this point, the hijab has been an arena of contesting interpretations. Meanwhile, contemporary Indonesia is witnessing the increase in the use of veil among urban female Muslims that leads to the birth of various hijab wearer communities. One of them is Tuneeca Lover Community (TLC). This community has become a new sphere where female Muslims articulate their ideas about Islam through various activities such as religious gathering, hijab tutorial class, fashion show, and charity activities. This study seeks to answer several questions: Why do these women decide to wear a hijab? Why do they join the TLC? How do they perceive the veil? Is it related to religious doctrines or other factors such as lifestyle? This research employs a qualitative method using documentation and interview to gather the data among 150 members of the TLC.  This research shows that their understanding of the hijab results from the common perception that places the veil as a religious obligation. Nevertheless, each of the members has one's orientation over the hijab. This paper also suggests that they try to transform this understanding into modern settings. As a consequence, they are not only committed to the traditionally spiritual meaning of the hijab but are also nuanced with modern ideas such as lifestyle and particular social class. Their participation in the TLC enables them to reach both goals simultaneously.


2020 ◽  
Vol 3 (4) ◽  
pp. 12-34
Author(s):  
Nestor A. Manichkin ◽  

The article dwells upon connection between the two most important Kyrgyz traditions: shamanism ( bakshylyk ) and storytelling ( zhomokchuluk ). It considers the general cultural and social field that forms some features that are characteristic of both shamans and storytellers, as well as the traces of pre-Islamic culture that can be found in the world of the Kyrgyz epic. Special attention is paid to the post-folklor version of the epic “Manas” – the dastan “Aykol Manas” and the public discussion around that literary work. The discussion reflects, on the one hand, specific aspects of the understanding of the Kyrgyz epic tradition, and on the other hand, a number of characteristic features that accompany modern transformations of Kyrgyz shamanism.


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