6.2.5 Surface waves in shallow water

2005 ◽  
pp. 32-35
Author(s):  
W. Rosenthal
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Shallow Water

Asynchronous whirl in a rotating cylinder partially filled with liquid

1985 ◽  
Vol 150 ◽  
pp. 311-327 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. S. Berman ◽  
T. S. Lundgren ◽  
A. Cheng
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Rotating Cylinder ◽  
The Self ◽  
Hydraulic Jumps ◽  
Centrifugal Forces ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Analytical Results

Experimental and analytical results are presented for the self-excited oscillations that occur in a partially filled centrifuge when centrifugal forces interact with shallow-water waves. Periodic and aperiodic modulations of the basic whirl phenomena are both observed and calculated. The surface waves are found to be hydraulic jumps, undular bores or solitary waves.

scholarly journals Boussinesq modeling of surface waves due to underwater landslides

2013 ◽  
Vol 20 (3) ◽  
pp. 267-285 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. Dutykh ◽  
H. Kalisch
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
Boussinesq Equations ◽  
Time Dependent ◽  
Viscous Drag ◽  
Underwater Landslide ◽  
Landslide Mass ◽  
Run Up

Abstract. Consideration is given to the influence of an underwater landslide on waves at the surface of a shallow body of fluid. The equations of motion that govern the evolution of the barycenter of the landslide mass include various dissipative effects due to bottom friction, internal energy dissipation, and viscous drag. The surface waves are studied in the Boussinesq scaling, with time-dependent bathymetry. A numerical model for the Boussinesq equations is introduced that is able to handle time-dependent bottom topography, and the equations of motion for the landslide and surface waves are solved simultaneously. The numerical solver for the Boussinesq equations can also be restricted to implement a shallow-water solver, and the shallow-water and Boussinesq configurations are compared. A particular bathymetry is chosen to illustrate the general method, and it is found that the Boussinesq system predicts larger wave run-up than the shallow-water theory in the example treated in this paper. It is also found that the finite fluid domain has a significant impact on the behavior of the wave run-up.

scholarly journals Traveling surface waves of moderate amplitude in shallow water

2014 ◽  
Vol 102 ◽  
pp. 105-119 ◽  
Author(s):  
Armengol Gasull ◽  
Anna Geyer
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Shallow Water

Nonlinear Fourier Analysis Algorithm and Models for Water Waves in Terms of Surface Elevation, Amplitude Modulations

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alfred R. Osborne
Keyword(s):  
Synthetic Aperture Radar ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Field ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Coherent Structures ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Synthetic Aperture ◽  
Wave Measurements

Abstract This paper addresses two issues with regard to nonlinear ocean waves. (1) The first issue relates to the often-confused differences between the coordinates used for the measurement and characterization of ocean surface waves: The surface elevation and the complex modulation of a wave field. (2) The second issue relates to the very different kinds of physical wave behavior that occur in shallow and deep water. Both issues come from the known, very different behaviors of deep and shallow water waves. In shallow water one often uses the Korteweg-deVries that describes the wave surface elevation in terms of cnoidal waves and solitons. In deep water one uses the nonlinear Schrödinger equation whose solutions correspond to the complex envelope of a wave field that has Stokes wave and breather solutions. Here I make clear the relationships between the two ways of characterizing surface waves. Furthermore, and more importantly, I address the issues of matching the two types of wave behavior as the wave motion passes from deep to shallow water, or vice versa. For wave measurements we normally obtain the surface elevation with a wave staff, resistance gauge or pressure recorder for getting time series. Remote sensing applications relate to the use of lidar, radar or synthetic aperture radar for obtaining space series. The two types of wave behavior can therefore crucially depend on where the instrument is placed on the “ground track” or “field” over which the lidar or radar measurements are made. Thus the matching problem from deep to shallow water is not only important for wave measurements, but also for wave modeling. Modern wave models [Osborne, 2010, 2018, 2019a, 2019b] that maintain the coherent structures of wave dynamics (solitons, Stokes waves, breathers, superbreathers, vortices, etc.) must naturally pass from deep to shallow water where the nature of the nonlinear physics, and the form of the coherent structures, change. I address these issues and more herein. This paper is directed towards the development of methods for the real time measurement of waves by shipboard radar and for wave measurements by airplane and helicopter using lidar and synthetic aperture radar. Wave modeling efforts are also underway.

Sound propagation in shallow water with surface waves

2004 ◽  
Vol 116 (4) ◽  
pp. 2550-2550
Author(s):  
Chris T. Tindle ◽  
Grant B. Deane
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Sound Propagation

A Machine-Learning Approach to Removing Highly Variable Surface-Waves for a Large Shallow-Water Survey Offshore Abu Dhabi

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Al Hajeri Badreia ◽  
Cambois Guillaume ◽  
Mahgoub Mohamed ◽  
Al Sarmi Mohamed ◽  
Domont Sonia ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Machine Learning ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Abu Dhabi ◽  
Learning Approach ◽  
Variable Surface ◽  
Machine Learning Approach
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