scholarly journals FLUME EXPERIMENTS ON SAND TRANSPORT BY WAVES AND CURRENTS

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (8) ◽  
pp. 11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Douglas L. Inman ◽  
Anthony J. Bowen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Fold Increase ◽  
Total Power ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Wave Travel ◽  
Solid Discharge ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
The Waves

Measurements were made of the sand transport (solid discharge) caused by waves and currents traveling over a horizontal sand bed in water 50 cm deep. The waves had heights of 15 cm, and periods of 1.4 and 2.0 sec. The sand transport was measured first in the presence of waves only, then in the presence of waves superimposed on currents. The currents flowed in the direction of wave travel, with steady uniform velocities of 2, 4, and 6 cm/sec. Since sand moves to and fro under the influence of waves, sand traps were placed flush with the surface at either end of the bed. The net sand transport was determined by subtracting the amount of sand trapped at the upwave end of the bed, from that trapped at the downwave end. The total amount of sand caught in both traps was greatest with waves of 2.0 sec period, while the net sand transport was greatest with waves of 1.4 sec period. Super position of waves on currents of 2 cm/sec produced a two-fold increase in the sand transport for both wave types. Surprisingly, faster currents of 4 and 6 cm/sec caused the discharge to decrease somewhat. Estimates of the power expended by waves was obtained from the decrement in wave height as the wave traveled over the sand bed. The decrement in wave height was found to be about I0--5 per unit of distance traveled. Certain calculations show that about one tenth of the total power expended by the waves was used in transporting sediment.

scholarly journals THE INTERACTION OF WAVES AND CURRENTS OVER A LONGSHORE BAR

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 116 ◽  
Author(s):  
I.A. Svendsen ◽  
J. Buhr Hansen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Runge Kutta Method ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Set Up ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Wave Properties ◽  
A Current

A two-dimensional model for waves and steady currents in the surf zone is developed. It is based on a depth integrated and time averaged version of the equations for the conservation of mass, momentum, and wave energy. A numerical solution is described based on a fourth order Runge-Kutta method. The solution yields the variation of wave height, set-up, and current in the surf zone, taking into account the mass flux in the waves. In its general form any wave theory can be used for the wave properties. Specific results are given using the description for surf zone waves suggested by Svendsen (1984a), and in this form the model is used for the wave motion with a current on a beach with a longshore bar. Results for wave height and set-up are compared with measurements by Hansen & Svendsen (1986).

Bulk drag coefficient of a subaquatic vegetation subjected to irregular waves: Influence of Reynolds and Keulegan-Carpenter numbers

2020 ◽  
pp. 34-42
Author(s):  
Thibault Chastel ◽  
Kevin Botten ◽  
Nathalie Durand ◽  
Nicole Goutal
Keyword(s):  
Drag Coefficient ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Empirical Relationship ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Geometrical Parameters ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Seagrass Meadows ◽  
Artificial Vegetation

Seagrass meadows are essential for protection of coastal erosion by damping wave and stabilizing the seabed. Seagrass are considered as a source of water resistance which modifies strongly the wave dynamics. As a part of EDF R & D seagrass restoration project in the Berre lagoon, we quantify the wave attenuation due to artificial vegetation distributed in a flume. Experiments have been conducted at Saint-Venant Hydraulics Laboratory wave flume (Chatou, France). We measure the wave damping with 13 resistive waves gauges along a distance L = 22.5 m for the “low” density and L = 12.15 m for the “high” density of vegetation mimics. A JONSWAP spectrum is used for the generation of irregular waves with significant wave height Hs ranging from 0.10 to 0.23 m and peak period Tp ranging from 1 to 3 s. Artificial vegetation is a model of Posidonia oceanica seagrass species represented by slightly flexible polypropylene shoots with 8 artificial leaves of 0.28 and 0.16 m height. Different hydrodynamics conditions (Hs, Tp, water depth hw) and geometrical parameters (submergence ratio α, shoot density N) have been tested to see their influence on wave attenuation. For a high submergence ratio (typically 0.7), the wave attenuation can reach 67% of the incident wave height whereas for a low submergence ratio (< 0.2) the wave attenuation is negligible. From each experiment, a bulk drag coefficient has been extracted following the energy dissipation model for irregular non-breaking waves developed by Mendez and Losada (2004). This model, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the species meadow is essentially due to the drag force, takes into account both wave and vegetation parameter. Finally, we found an empirical relationship for Cd depending on 2 dimensionless parameters: the Reynolds and Keulegan-Carpenter numbers. These relationships are compared with other similar studies.

scholarly journals SHEETFLOW SEDIMENT TRANSPORT UNDER SKEWED - ASYMMETRIC WAVES AND CURRENTS

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 50 ◽  
Author(s):  
Le Phuong Dong ◽  
Shinji Sato
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Fine Sand ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Phase Lag ◽  
Half Cycle ◽  
Experimental Conditions ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Asymmetric Flows

Prototype scale laboratory experiments have been conducted to investigate the sheetflow sediment transport of uniform sands under different skewed-asymmetric oscillatory flows. Experimental results reveal that in most of the case with fine sand, the “cancelling effect”, which balances the on-/off-shore net transport under pure asymmetric/skewed flows and results a moderate net transport, was developed for combined skewed-asymmetric flow. However, under some certain conditions (T > 5s) with coarse sands, the onshore sediment transport was enhanced by 50% under combined skewed-asymmetric flows. Sand transport mechanism under oscillatory sheetflow conditions is also studied by comparing the maximum bed shear stress and the phase lag parameter at each half cycle. A comparison of measurements including the new experimental data with a number of practical sand transport formulations shows that the Dong et al. (2013) formulation performs the best in predicting the measured net transport rates over a wide range of experimental conditions

scholarly journals APPLICATIONS ON NONLINEAR WAVE COMBINATION

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 26
Author(s):  
J.T. Juang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Taiwan Strait ◽  
Western Coast ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave System ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Source Wave ◽  
The Waves

Due to the special bathymetry in Taiwan Strait, the waves off the western coast of Taiwan are considered to be composed of two-source wave system. One propagates from the central part of the Strait named main wave, and the other is generated by the local wind known as local wave which occurs along the shore. After the combination and the transformation procedure from these two-nonlinear-source wave system, the wave height distribution in Taiwan Strait should be modified. A comparison of the wave height distributions based on the present proposed method with the field data indicates that the present method yields a better result than other theorems. Furthermore, the result of application of two non-linear wave theorem to wave prediction are also presented.

scholarly journals MACH-REFLECTION AS A DIFFRACTION PROBLEM

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 45 ◽  
Author(s):  
Udo Berger ◽  
Soren Kohlhase
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Gas Dynamics ◽  
Mach Reflection ◽  
Diffraction Problem ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
The Waves

As under oblique wave approach water waves are reflected by a vertical wall, a wave branching effect (stem) develops normal to the reflecting wall. The waves progressing along the wall will steep up. The wave heights increase up to more than twice the incident wave height. The £jtudy has pointed out that this effect, which is usually called MACH-REFLECTION, is not to be taken as an analogy to gas dynamics, but should be interpreted as a diffraction problem.

scholarly journals Micro Sand Engine Beach Stabilization Strategy at Puerto Morelos, Mexico

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (4) ◽  
pp. 247 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mireille Escudero ◽  
Edgar Mendoza ◽  
Rodolfo Silva
Keyword(s):  
Small Scale ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Protection Measure ◽  
Morphological Response ◽  
Protection Measures ◽  
Small Bell ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Maintenance Work ◽  
Negative Impacts ◽  
The Waves

In the last decade, innovative beach nourishment strategies have been developed, driven by the increased worldwide interest in environmentally friendly coastal protection measures. In this context, the massive nourishment project of the Netherlands, known as Sand Engine, begun in 2011, has been hailed as a successful means of beach protection. Continuous monitoring, field campaigns, and numerical modeling have shown that the great volume of sand deployed is gradually transported by the waves and currents along the coastline, avoiding the need for repeated invasive, small scale beach replenishments. A very small, bell-shaped Sand Engine was designed to protect the beachfront at a tourist resort near Puerto Morelos, Mexico. To estimate the morphological response of the beach and the functioning of the micro Sand Engine as a sand reservoir, XBeach numerical modelling was applied to the project. The micro Sand Engine is seen to be a sustainable and eco-friendly coastal protection measure, especially applicable when a large nourishment project is not viable. Maintenance work for the nourishment is cost and time effective, and any negative impacts to sensitive ecosystems nearby can be detected and controlled quickly.

scholarly journals ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROLS ON LITTORAL SAND TRANSPORT

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 92 ◽  
Author(s):  
Paul D. Komar
Keyword(s):  
Environmental Factors ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Measurement Techniques ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Total Power ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Data Set ◽  
Environmental Controls ◽  
Gravel Beaches

Quantities of sand transported along beaches are generally related to the "longshore component of wave power", F^, through the proportionality is = KF£ where l8 is the immersed-weight sand transport rate and K is a dimensionless proportionality factor. A more-generally applicable relationship is that of Bagnold, ls = K'(ECn)bvL/um where (ECn)b is the energy flux or total power of the breaking waves, y^ is the longshore current, um is the mean orbital velocity under the waves, and K' is another dimensionless coefficient. It is apparent that sediment transport rates on beaches should depend on environmental factors such as the grain diameter or settling velocity, and possibly on factors such as the beach slope or wave steepness. However, examinations of such dependencies for K and K' within the field data are hampered by problems with large random scatter within any one data set, and by systematic differences between separate studies which have employed diverse measurement techniques. Examinations of the field data for K and K' variations indicate that meaningful dependencies on sediment grain diameters and other factors cannot be established with confidence in the sand-size range. Limited data available from gravel beaches support the expected decreases in K and K' with increasing grain sizes. These data are too few in numbers to establish firm trends, but do suggest that future investigations to establish dependencies on environmental factors would be most profitably undertaken on gravel beaches. The measurements collected in recent years from sand beaches suggest revisions in average K and K' coefficients to be used in transport evaluations, but such revisions must be coordinated such that K/K' = 2.7 so as to maintain agreement with the longshore current data.

Sediment transport by waves and currents

1983 ◽  
Vol 10 (1) ◽  
pp. 142-149 ◽  
Author(s):  
Michael C. Quick
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Mass Transport ◽  
Power Relationship ◽  
Zero Current ◽  
Transport Direction ◽  
Transport Velocity ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Mass Transport Velocity ◽  
Combined Action ◽  
The Waves

Sediment transport is measured under the combined action of waves and currents. Measurements are made with currents in the direction of wave advance and with currents opposing the wave motion. Theoretical relationships are considered that predict the wave velocity field and the mass transport velocity for zero current and for steady currents.Following Bagnold's approach, a transport power relationship is developed to predict the sediment transport rate. Making assumptions for the mass transport velocity, the transport power is shown to agree with the measured sediment transport rates. It is particularly noted that the sediment transport direction is mainly determined by the direction of wave movement, even for adverse currents, until the waves start to break. Keywords: sediment transport, waves and currents, coastal engineering.

LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES

2007 ◽  
Vol 01 (03) ◽  
pp. 257-272 ◽  
Author(s):  
KAO-SHU HWANG ◽  
YU-HSUAN CHANG ◽  
HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG ◽  
YI-SYUAN LI
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Hydraulics Laboratory ◽  
The Waves

The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.

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