scholarly journals WAVES ON THE PACIFIC COAST AND ON THE COAST OF ISE BAY CAUSED BY THE ISE-WAN TYPHOON

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (7) ◽  
pp. 56
Author(s):  
Takeshi Ijima ◽  
Shoji Shato ◽  
Hisashi Aono
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Pacific Coast ◽  
Field Inspection ◽  
Ise Bay ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
The Pacific ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
General Aspects

General aspects of wave characteristics on the Pacific Coast of the main land and on the coast of Ise Bay caused by the Ise-wan Typhoon are studied on the bases of the observed wave data, calculated wave heights by the authors' method of forecasting shallow water wave and the results of the field inspection of damages by the typhoon.

scholarly journals SHALLOW WATER WAVE CHARACTERISTICS

1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 16
Author(s):  
Winfried Siefert
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Tidal Flats ◽  
Point Of View ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Shallow Water Wave ◽  
Suitable Parameter ◽  
Wave Heights

Prototype data from 24 wave stations on and around the tidal flats south of the Elbe estuary enable us to elaborate special shallow water wave characteristics, concerning the variations and correlations of heights, periods, lengths and velocities. This paper deals with some interesting aspects from the engineer's point of view. It turns out that the steepness factor — or H L —^o- of breaking waves is much smaller than of nong- T^ breaking waves and that steepness is no suitable parameter to describe a natural wave spectrum in shallow waters. On the tidal flats the maximum wave heights only depend on the depth of water, not on the steepness. Moreover the possible wave height proves to become much higher than theoretically predicted, especially in depths of water less than 2 m.

scholarly journals PROBABILITIES OF BREAKING WAVE CHARACTERISTICS

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 25 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Ian Collins
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Probability Density ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Probability Distributions ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Probability Densities ◽  
Wave Heights

Utilizing the hydrodynamic relationships for shoaling and refraction of waves approaching a shoreline over parallel bottom contours a procedure is developed to transform an arbitrary probability density of wave characteristics in deep water into the corresponding breaking characteristics in shallow Water A number of probability distributions for breaking wave characteristics are derived m terms of assumed deep water probability densities of wave heights wave lengths and angles of approach Some probability densities for wave heights at specific locations in the surf zone are computed for a Rayleigh distribution in deep water The probability computations are used to derive the expectation of energy flux and its distribution.

scholarly journals Re-Estimating Extremes of Wave Heights Using Wave Data Hindcast during the Year Period from 1911 to 2005 in Tokyo Bay and Ise Bay

2012 ◽  
Vol 68 (2) ◽  
pp. I_106-I_110
Author(s):  
Masataka YAMAGUCHI ◽  
Hirokazu NONAKA ◽  
Yoshio HATADA ◽  
Manabu OHFUKU ◽  
Mikio HINO
Keyword(s):  
Tokyo Bay ◽  
Ise Bay ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Wave Heights

scholarly journals DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF JETTIES

2010 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 26 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. E. Hickson ◽  
F. W. Rodolf
Keyword(s):  
United States ◽  
Pacific Coast ◽  
The United States ◽  
The Pacific ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Design And Construction

The purpose of this paper is to present a brief outline of the general engineering procedure for the siting and design of jetties and the methods of constructing such structures. After a general presentation of the formulae proposed by various engineers to determine the size and weight of individual pieces of stone or other material which should be used under various wave heights, this paper will be devoted principally to the construction of rubble stone jetties. This is the type principally used on the Pacific Coast of the United States.

scholarly journals THE CHARACTERISTICS OF WIND-WAVES GENERATED IN THE LABORATORY

1968 ◽  
Vol 1 (11) ◽  
pp. 4
Author(s):  
Theodore E. Lee
Keyword(s):  
Wind Wave ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Zero Crossing ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Significant Correction ◽  
Wave Heights

Wind-wave characteristics were recorded in the laboratory for the primary purposes of (a) analysis of the probability distribution of wave height and wave period with wind speed, water depth, and fetch length as major parameters, and (b) comparison of the test results with existing theory and empirical formulae. An important aspect of this study was to test the validity of the Tucker and Draper method (Draper, 1966) for the presentation of ocean wave data as applicable to wave-data analysis for simulated wind waves. It was interesting to note that some corrections were necessary when the method proposed by Draper at the 10th Coastal Engineering Conference was used for analyzing waves generated in the laboratory. Approximately a positive 20% correction was necessary for this study in which the wave spectra distribution is of very narrow range, the wave width parametere = V1-(T /T ) varles from 0.25 to 0.50, where Tc and T2 represent crest wave period ana zero-crossing wave period, respectively. However, only a negative 5% correction was necessary when the method was used to analyze sea waves (e = 0 73 to 0 76) measured off the shoreline near Look Laboratory Therefore, it was concluded that the Tucker and Draper Method is quite feasible for engineering purposes in analyzing wind-waves having a spectral width parameter of 0.60 to 0.75 The experimental data were compared with those wave heights predicted by the Darbyshire formulas (Francis, 1959) developed for ocean waves. A significant correction factor was necessary for laboratory waves produced by low-speed wi nds. The "fetch graph" was prepared and compared with those developed theoretically by Hino (1966) and empirically by Ijima and Tang (1966) at the 10th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Tokyo, Japan Comparison was also made with the previous empirical formulae by Bretschneider (1951, 1957), Sverdrup and Munk (1947), and Wilson (1961,1962). The experimental results compared well with the Hino theory for both wave heights and wave periods, and fairly well with Bretschneider's fetch graph for wave heights The difference in the comparison of wave data with other investigators is illustrated in this paper. It is recommended that further study be made with emphasis on (a) theoretical and experimental studies of wind-wave characteristics on pre-existing waves, particularly moving storms, (b) wave-energy spectra involving stochastic characteristics and extreme values of wind waves

Theoretical and numerical methods for the nonlinear Fourier analysis of shallow-water wave data

1982 ◽  
Vol 5 (6) ◽  
pp. 633-648 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. R. Osborne ◽  
A. Provenzale ◽  
L. Bergamasco
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Methods ◽  
Fourier Analysis ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Shallow Water Wave

Gulf of Mexico Shallow-Water Wave Heights and Forces

1983 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.G. Bea ◽  
N.W. Lai ◽  
A.W. Niedoroda ◽  
G.H. Moore
Keyword(s):  
Gulf Of Mexico ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Shallow Water Wave ◽  
Wave Heights
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