scholarly journals PREDICTING THE BREAKING STRENGTH OF GRAVITY WATER WAVES FROM DEEP TO SHALLOW WATER

2018 ◽  
pp. 9
Author(s):  
James T. Kirby ◽  
Morteza Derakhti ◽  
Michael L. Banner ◽  
Stephan Grilli
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Breaking Strength ◽  
Modulational Instability ◽  
Wave Packets ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Strength Parameter ◽  
Flat Bottom ◽  
Vof Model ◽  
Wave Trains ◽  
Modulated Wave Trains

We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking strength of 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves.Our goal is to find a robust and local parameterization to predict the breaking strength of 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves. We use a LES/VOF model described by Derakhti & Kirby (2014) to simulate nonlinear wave evolution, breaking onset and post-breaking behavior for representative cases of focused wave packets or modulated wave trains. Using these numerical results, we investigate the relationship between the breaking strength parameter b and the breaking onset parameter B proposed by Barthelemy et al. (2018). While the results are potentially applicable more generally, in this paper we concentrate on breaking events due to focusing or modulational instability in wave packets over flat bottom topography and for conditions ranging from deep to intermediate depth, with depth to wavelength ratios ranging from 0.68 to 0.13.

Predicting the breaking strength of gravity water waves in deep and intermediate depth

2018 ◽  
Vol 848 ◽  
Author(s):  
Morteza Derakhti ◽  
Michael L. Banner ◽  
James T. Kirby
Keyword(s):  
Wave Energy ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Breaking Strength ◽  
Modulational Instability ◽  
Rate Of Change ◽  
Strength Parameter ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Local Energy ◽  
Energy Dissipated

We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the strength of breaking 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves, as quantified by the amount of wave energy dissipated per breaking event. Following Duncan (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 126, 1983, pp. 507–520), the wave energy dissipation rate per unit length of breaking crest may be related to the fifth moment of the wave speed and the non-dimensional breaking strength parameter $b$. We use a finite-volume Navier–Stokes solver with large-eddy simulation resolution and volume-of-fluid surface reconstruction (Derakhti & Kirby, J. Fluid Mech., vol. 761, 2014a, pp. 464–506; J. Fluid Mech., vol. 790, 2016, pp. 553–581) to simulate nonlinear wave evolution, with a strong focus on breaking onset and postbreaking behaviour for representative cases of wave packets with breaking due to dispersive focusing and modulational instability. The present study uses these results to investigate the relationship between the breaking strength parameter $b$ and the breaking onset parameter $B$ proposed recently by Barthelemy et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 841, 2018, pp. 463–488). The latter, formed from the local energy flux normalized by the local energy density and the local crest speed, simplifies, on the wave surface, to the ratio of fluid speed to crest speed. Following a wave crest, when $B$ exceeds a generic threshold value at the wave crest (Barthelemy et al. 2018), breaking is imminent. We find a robust relationship between the breaking strength parameter $b$ and the rate of change of breaking onset parameter $\text{d}B/\text{d}t$ at the wave crest, as it transitions through the generic breaking onset threshold ($B\sim 0.85$), scaled by the local period of the breaking wave. This result significantly refines previous efforts to express $b$ in terms of a wave packet steepness parameter, which is difficult to define robustly and which does not provide a generically accurate forecast of the energy dissipated by breaking.

scholarly journals The modulational instability in deep water under the action of wind and dissipation

2010 ◽  
Vol 664 ◽  
pp. 138-149 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. KHARIF ◽  
R. A. KRAENKEL ◽  
M. A. MANNA ◽  
R. THOMAS
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Friction Velocity ◽  
Modulational Instability ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Carrier Wave ◽  
Stable States ◽  
Frequency Regime ◽  
Wind Velocities ◽  
Wave Trains ◽  
Unstable States

The modulational instability of gravity wave trains on the surface of water acted upon by wind and under influence of viscosity is considered. The wind regime is that of validity of Miles' theory and the viscosity is small. By using a perturbed nonlinear Schrödinger equation describing the evolution of a narrow-banded wavepacket under the action of wind and dissipation, the modulational instability of the wave group is shown to depend on both the frequency (or wavenumber) of the carrier wave and the strength of the friction velocity (or the wind speed). For fixed values of the water-surface roughness, the marginal curves separating stable states from unstable states are given. It is found in the low-frequency regime that stronger wind velocities are needed to sustain the modulational instability than for high-frequency water waves. In other words, the critical frequency decreases as the carrier wave age increases. Furthermore, it is shown for a given carrier frequency that a larger friction velocity is needed to sustain modulational instability when the roughness length is increased.

scholarly journals Nonlinear Evolution Equations for Broader Bandwidth Wave Packets in Crossing Sea States

2014 ◽  
Vol 2014 ◽  
pp. 1-9 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. Debsarma ◽  
S. Senapati ◽  
K. P. Das
Keyword(s):  
Growth Rate ◽  
Evolution Equations ◽  
Nonlinear Evolution ◽  
Modulational Instability ◽  
Wave Packets ◽  
Nonlinear Evolution Equations ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Surface Gravity Wave ◽  
Freak Waves ◽  
Wave Trains

Two coupled nonlinear equations are derived describing the evolution of two broader bandwidth surface gravity wave packets propagating in two different directions in deep water. The equations, being derived for broader bandwidth wave packets, are applicable to more realistic ocean wave spectra in crossing sea states. The two coupled evolution equations derived here have been used to investigate the instability of two uniform wave trains propagating in two different directions. We have shown in figures the behaviour of the growth rate of instability of these uniform wave trains for unidirectional as well as for bidirectional perturbations. The figures drawn here confirm the fact that modulational instability in crossing sea states with broader bandwidth wave packets can lead to the formation of freak waves.

scholarly journals On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water

2018 ◽  
Vol 841 ◽  
pp. 463-488 ◽  
Author(s):  
X. Barthelemy ◽  
M. L. Banner ◽  
W. L. Peirson ◽  
F. Fedele ◽  
M. Allis ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Packets ◽  
Fluid Velocity ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Intermediate Depth ◽  
Local Ratio ◽  
2D And 3D ◽  
Depth Water

We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking onset of 2D and 3D irrotational gravity water waves. Based on a fully nonlinear 3D boundary element model, our numerical simulations investigate geometric, kinematic and energetic differences between maximally tall non-breaking waves and marginally breaking waves in focusing wave groups. Our study focuses initially on unidirectional domains with flat bottom topography and conditions ranging from deep to intermediate depth (depth to wavelength ratio from 1 to 0.2). Maximally tall non-breaking (maximally recurrent) waves are clearly separated from marginally breaking waves by their normalised energy fluxes localised near the crest tip region. The initial breaking instability occurs within a very compact region centred on the wave crest. On the surface, this reduces to the local ratio of the energy flux velocity (here the fluid velocity) to the crest point velocity for the tallest wave in the evolving group. This provides a robust threshold parameter for breaking onset for 2D wave packets propagating in uniform water depths from deep to intermediate. Further targeted study of representative cases of the most severe laterally focused 3D wave packets in deep and intermediate depth water shows that the threshold remains robust. These numerical findings for 2D and 3D cases are closely supported by our companion observational results. Warning of imminent breaking onset is detectable up to a fifth of a carrier wave period prior to a breaking event.

scholarly journals Integral Constraints for Momentum and Energy in Zonal Flows with Parameterized Potential Vorticity Fluxes: Governing Parameters

2014 ◽  
Vol 44 (3) ◽  
pp. 922-943 ◽  
Author(s):  
V. O. Ivchenko ◽  
S. Danilov ◽  
B. Sinha ◽  
J. Schröter
Keyword(s):  
Ocean Circulation ◽  
Potential Vorticity ◽  
Channel Model ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Flat Bottom ◽  
Zonal Flows ◽  
Integral Constraints ◽  
Variable Bottom ◽  
Eddy Fluxes ◽  
The Impact

Abstract Integral constraints for momentum and energy impose restrictions on parameterizations of eddy potential vorticity (PV) fluxes. The impact of these constraints is studied for a wind-forced quasigeostrophic two-layer zonal channel model with variable bottom topography. The presence of a small parameter, given by the ratio of Rossby radius to the width of the channel, makes it possible to find an analytical/asymptotic solution for the zonally and time-averaged flow, given diffusive parameterizations for the eddy PV fluxes. This solution, when substituted in the constraints, leads to nontrivial explicit restrictions on diffusivities. The system is characterized by four dimensionless governing parameters with a clear physical interpretation. The bottom form stress, the major term balancing the external force of wind stress, depends on the governing parameters and fundamentally modifies the restrictions compared to the flat bottom case. While the analytical solution bears an illustrative character, it helps to see certain nontrivial connections in the system that will be useful in the analysis of more complicated models of ocean circulation. A numerical solution supports the analytical study and confirms that the presence of topography strongly modifies the eddy fluxes.

Tidal Internal Waves in the Bransfield Strait, Antarctica

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Eugene Morozov ◽  
Dmitry Frey ◽  
Elizaveta Khimchenko
Keyword(s):  
Internal Waves ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Internal Tide ◽  
Internal Tides ◽  
South Shetland Islands ◽  
Flat Bottom ◽  
Bransfield Strait ◽  
Vertical Displacements ◽  
Rfbr Grant

<p>Observations of tidal internal waves in the Bransfield Strait, Antarctica, are analyzed. The measurements were carried out for 14 days on a moored station equipped with five autonomous temperature and pressure sensors. The mooring was deployed on the slope of Nelson Island (South Shetland Islands archipelago) over a depth of 70 m at point 62°21ꞌ S, 58°49ꞌ W. Analysis is based on the fluctuations of isotherms.  Vertical displacements of temperature revealed that strong internal vertical oscillations up to 30–40 m are caused by the diurnal internal tide. Spectral analysis of vertical displacements of the 0.9°C isotherm showed a clear peak at a period of 24 h. It is known that the tides in the Bransfield Strait are mostly mixed diurnal and semidiurnal, but during the Antarctic summer, diurnal tide component may intensify. The velocity ellipses of the barotropic tidal currents were estimated using the global tidal model TPXO9.0. It was found that tidal ellipses rotate clockwise with a period of 24 h and anticlockwise with a period of 12 h. The waves are forced due to the interaction of the barotropic tide with the bottom topography. Diurnal internal tides do not develop at latitudes higher than 30º over flat bottom. The research was supported by RFBR grant 20-08-00246.</p>

On a uniformly valid model for surface wave interaction

1993 ◽  
Vol 247 ◽  
pp. 589-601 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yehuda Agnon
Keyword(s):  
Surface Wave ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Wave Interaction ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
First Order ◽  
Near Resonance ◽  
Wave Trains ◽  
Velocity Changes ◽  
Forced Waves

Nonlinear interaction of surface wave trains is studied. Zakharov's kernel is extended to include the vicinity of trio resonance. The forced wave amplitude and the wave velocity changes are then first order rather than second order. The model is applied to remove near-resonance singularities in expressions for the change of speed of one wave train in the presence of another. New results for Wilton ripples and the drift current and setdown in shallow water waves are readily derived. The ideas are applied to the derivation of forced waves in the vicinity of quartet and quintet resonance in an evolving wave field.

$ M- $truncated optical soliton and their characteristics to a nonlinear equation governing the certain instabilities of modulated wave trains

2021 ◽  
Vol 6 (9) ◽  
pp. 9208-9222
Author(s):  
Abdullahi Yusuf ◽  
◽  
Tukur A. Sulaiman ◽  
Mustafa Inc ◽  
Sayed Abdel-Khalek ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Equation ◽  
Optical Soliton ◽  
Wave Trains ◽  
Modulated Wave Trains
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