scholarly journals EDGE WAVE INDUCED BY AN ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE DISTURBANCE MOVING ALONG A SLOPING BEACH

2018 ◽  
pp. 82
Author(s):  
Yixiang Chen ◽  
Xiaojing Niu
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Atmospheric Pressure ◽  
Edge Wave ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Translation Speed ◽  
Pressure Disturbance ◽  
Significant Edge ◽  
Spatial Size ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Wave Induced

Edge wave can be generated by an atmospheric pressure disturbance moving along the shoreline on a sloping beach. A two-dimensional numerical model based on non-linear shallow water equations is established and a set of numerical experiments are conducted to study the edge wave packets evolution in coastal ocean. In light of the analytical solutions by Greenspan, some dominant factors are discussed, such as disturbance spatial size, translation speed, its location and the slope inclination, that influence the generation conditions and evolution process of edge waves. The results indicate on what circumstances significant edge waves will be excited and how long it takes for the wave growth.

Edge waves over a shelf: full linear theory

1984 ◽  
Vol 142 ◽  
pp. 79-95 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. V. Evans ◽  
P. Mciver
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wide Class ◽  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Explicit Solution ◽  
Mode Shapes ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Wave Solutions ◽  
Linearized Theory ◽  
Sloping Beach

Edge-wave solutions to the linearized shallow-water equations for water waves are well known for a variety of bottom topographies. The only explicit solution using the full linearized theory describes edge waves over a uniformly sloping beach, although the existence of such waves has been established for a wide class of bottom geometries. In this paper the full linearized theory is used to derive the properties of edge waves over a shelf. In particular, curves are presented showing the variation of frequency with wavenumber along the shelf, together with some mode shapes for a particular shelf geometry.

scholarly journals Geophysical Equatorial Edge Wave with Underlying Currents in the f-Plane Approximation

Fluids ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 4 (3) ◽  
pp. 118
Author(s):  
Hsu
Keyword(s):  
Edge Wave ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Governing Equations ◽  
Wave Dynamics ◽  
Transport Velocity ◽  
Mass Transport Velocity ◽  
Uniform Currents ◽  
Exact And Explicit Solution ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Analytical Expressions

I present an exact and explicit solution to the nonlinear governing equations in the equatorial f-plane, describing geophysical edge waves propagating over a plane-sloping beach, in the presence of underlying uniform currents. I also derive the analytical expressions of geophysical edge wave dynamics and the mass transport velocity.

Edge waves on a sloping beach

1952 ◽  
Vol 214 (1116) ◽  
pp. 79-97 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Mechanical System ◽  
Continuous Spectrum ◽  
Cutoff Frequency ◽  
Edge Wave ◽  
Finite Width ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Frequency Range ◽  
Discrete Frequency ◽  
Mixed Spectrum ◽  
Sloping Beach

The set of eigenfrequencies of a mechanical system forms its spectrum. A discussion is given of systems with discrete, continuous and mixed spectra. It is shown that resonance occurs at discrete points of the spectrum, and at cut-off frequencies (end-points of the continuous spectrum). The motion in a semi-infinite canal of finite width closed by a sloping beach has a mixed spectrum. The inviscid theory predicts that at a discrete frequency the resonance is confined to the neighbourhood of the beach (inviscid edge wave), while at a cutoff frequency the resonance extends a long way down the canal. The latter resonance is confined to the neighbourhood of the beach (viscous edge wave) by viscosity which is important near a cut-off frequency. Especially large resonances are predicted for a series of critical angles, of which the largest is 30°. The theory is verified experimentally in the frequency range 100 to 17c/min for the angles 37⋅6 and 29⋅5°.

Three-dimensional numerical simulation of wave-induced scour around a pile on a sloping beach

2021 ◽  
Vol 233 ◽  
pp. 109174
Author(s):  
Jinzhao Li ◽  
David R. Fuhrman ◽  
Xuan Kong ◽  
Mingxiao Xie ◽  
Yilin Yang
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Simulation ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Wave Induced

Effect of Coriolis force on edge waves (I) Investigation of the normal modes

2020 ◽  
Vol 78 (4) ◽  
pp. 229-261
Author(s):  
Robert O. Reid
Keyword(s):  
Coriolis Force ◽  
Wind Stress ◽  
Formal Solution ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Normal Modes ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Phase Speed ◽  
Free Edge ◽  
Edge Wave ◽  
Edge Waves

Essentially two classes of free edge waves can exist on a sloping continental shelf in the presence of Coriolis force. For small longshore wave length, fundamental waves of the first class behave like Stokes edge waves. However, for great wave lengths (of several hundred kilometers or more) the characteristics of the first class are significantly altered. In the northern hemisphere the phase speed for waves moving to the right (facing shore from the sea) exceeds the speed for waves which move to the left. Also, the group velocity for a given edge wave mode has a finite upper limit. Waves of the second class are essentially quasigeostrophic boundary waves with very low frequency and, like Kelvin waves, move only to the left (again facing shore from the sea). Unlike Stokes edge waves, those of the quasigeostrophic class are associated with large vorticity. Examination of the formal solution for forced edge waves indicates that those of the second class may be excited significantly by a wind stress vortex. Also, in contrast to the conclusion of Greenspan (1956), it is proposed that a hurricane can effectively excite the higher order edge wave modes in addition to the fundamental if wind stress is considered.

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