scholarly journals GENERATION OF EXTREME TRANSIENT WAVES IN EXPERIMENTAL MODELS

Author(s):  
Huichen Zhang ◽  
Markus Brühl

The transfer of natural waves and sea states into small- and large-scale model teste contributes to the proper design of offshore and coastal structure. Such shallow-water ocean surface waves are highly nonlinear and subject to wave transformation and nonlinear wave-wave interactions. However, the standard methods of wave generation according to conventional wave theories and wave analysis methods are limited to simple regular waves, simple sea states and low-order wave generation without considering the nonlinear wave-wave interactions. The research project Generation of Extreme Transient Waves in Experimental Models (ExTraWaG) aims to accurately generate target transient wave profile at a pre-defined position in the wave flume (transfer point) under shallow water conditions. For this purpose, the KdV-based nonlinear Fourier transform is introduced as a continuative wave analysis method and is applied to investigate the nonlinear spectral character of experimental wave data. Furthermore, the method is applied to generate transient nonlinear waves as specific locations in the wave flume, considering the nonlinear transformation and interactions of the propagating waves.

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 36 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lihwa Lin ◽  
Zeki Demirbilek ◽  
Jinhai Zheng ◽  
Hajime Mase

This paper presents an efficient numerical algorithm for the nonlinear wave-wave interactions that can be important in the evolution of coastal waves. Indeed, ocean waves truly interact with each others. However, because ocean waves can also interact with the atmosphere such as under variable wind and pressure fields, and waves will deform from deep to shallow water, it is generally difficult to differentiate the actual amount of the nonlinear energy transfer among spectral waves mixed with the atmospheric input and wave breaking. The classical derivation of the nonlinear wave energy transfer has involved tedious numerical calculation that appears impractical to the engineering application. The present study proposed a theoretically based formulation to efficiently calculate nonlinear wave-wave interactions in the spectral wave transformation equation. It is approved to perform well in both idealized and real application examples. This rapid calculation algorithm indicates the nonlinear energy transfer is more significant in the intermediate depth than in deep and shallow water conditions.


Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.


2016 ◽  
Vol 23 (s1) ◽  
pp. 44-51 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qian-lu Xiao ◽  
Chun-hui Li ◽  
Xiao-yan Fu ◽  
Mei-ju Wang

Abstract The transformation during wave propagation is significantly important for the calculations of hydraulic and coastal engineering, as well as the sediment transport. The exact wave height deformation calculation on the coasts is essential to near-shore hydrodynamics research and the structure design of coastal engineering. According to the wave shoaling results gained from the elliptical cosine wave theory, the nonlinear wave dispersion relation is adopted to develop the expression of the corresponding nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient. Based on the extended elliptic mild slope equation, an efficient wave numerical model is presented in this paper for predicting wave deformation across the complex topography and the surf zone, incorporating the nonlinear wave dispersion relation, the nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient and other energy dissipation factors. Especially, the phenomenon of wave recovery and second breaking could be shown by the present model. The classical Berkhoff single elliptic topography wave tests, the sinusoidal varying topography experiment, and complex composite slopes wave flume experiments are applied to verify the accuracy of the calculation of wave heights. Compared with experimental data, good agreements are found upon single elliptical topography and one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope and step-type profiles. The results indicate that the newly-developed nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient improves the calculated accuracy of wave transformation in the surf zone efficiently, and the wave breaking is the key factor affecting the wave characteristics and need to be considered in the nearshore wave simulations.


Author(s):  
Andrew Cornett ◽  
Scott Baker

The objectives of this work are to close some of the knowledge gaps facing designers tasked with designing new offshore structures or upgrading older structures located in shallow waters and exposed to energetic multi-directional waves generated by passing hurricanes or cyclones. This will be accomplished by first investigating and characterizing the natural variability of the maximum wave heights and crest elevations found in multiple 2-hour long realizations of several short-crested shallow-water near-breaking seastates. Following this, the variability and repeatability of peak pressures and peak loads exerted on a 1/35 scale model of a gravity-based offshore structure are explored. The analysis focuses on establishing extreme value distributions for each realization, quantifying their variability, and exploring how the variability is diminished when results from multiple seastate realizations and repeated tests are combined. The importance of considering multiple realizations of a design wave condition when estimating peak values for use in design is investigated and highlighted.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/16bCsMd0OMc


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