scholarly journals A SIMPLE AND ACCURATE NONLINEAR METHOD FOR RECOVERING THE SURFACE WAVE ELEVATION FROM PRESSURE MEASUREMENTS

2018 ◽  
pp. 46
Author(s):  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Arthur Mouragues ◽  
David Lannes ◽  
Kevin Martins ◽  
Hervé Michallet
Keyword(s):  
Surface Wave ◽  
Measurement Errors ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Nonlinear Method ◽  
Nonlinear Phase ◽  
Wave Elevation ◽  
Measuring Surface ◽  
Wave Models

Near-bottom-mounted pressure sensors have long been used for measuring surface wave in the nearshore. The commonly used practice is to recover the wave field by means of a transfer function based on linear wave theory (e.g. Guza and Thornton, 1980; Bishop and Donelan, 1987). However, wave nonlinearities can be strong in the shoaling zone, especially in the region close to the onset of breaking, and thus the use of a linear theory can be questioned. Martins et al. (2017) and Bonneton (2017, 2018) have shown that the linear reconstruction fails to describe the peaky and skewed shape of nonlinear waves prior to breaking, with wave height errors up to 30%. Such measurement errors are problematic for many coastal applications. For instance, studies on wave overtopping and submersion require accurate measurements of the highest wave crests. Furthermore, a correct description of wave asymmetry and skewness is of paramount importance for understanding sediment dynamics. Finally, an accurate description of the wave elevation field is also crucial for the validation of the new generation of fully-nonlinear phase-resolving wave models.

Prediction of Surface Wave Elevation Based on Pressure Measurements

1999 ◽  
Vol 121 (4) ◽  
pp. 242-250 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. Meza ◽  
J. Zhang ◽  
R. J. Seymour
Keyword(s):  
Wave Train ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Pressure Measurements ◽  
Transient Wave ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Wave Elevation ◽  
Modulation Methods ◽  
Elevation Measurement

A deterministic method for predicting wave elevation based on pressure measurements is developed. The method is based on the hybrid wave model (HWM), which employs both conventional and phase modulation methods for modeling wave-wave interactions in an irregular wave train. The predicted wave elevation using the HWM based on the pressure measurement of a steep transient wave train is in excellent agreement with the corresponding elevation measurement, while that using linear wave theory (LWT) has relatively large discrepancies.

A Second Order Lagrangian Model for Irregular Ocean Waves

2005 ◽  
Vol 128 (3) ◽  
pp. 177-183 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sébastien Fouques ◽  
Harald E. Krogstad ◽  
Dag Myrhaug
Keyword(s):  
Specular Reflection ◽  
Fluid Velocity ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Lagrangian Model ◽  
Lagrangian Description ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Irregular Solution

Synthetic aperture radar (SAR) imaging of ocean waves involves both the geometry and the kinematics of the sea surface. However, the traditional linear wave theory fails to describe steep waves, which are likely to bring about specular reflection of the radar beam, and it may overestimate the surface fluid velocity that causes the so-called velocity bunching effect. Recently, the interest for a Lagrangian description of ocean gravity waves has increased. Such an approach considers the motion of individual labeled fluid particles and the free surface elevation is derived from the surface particles positions. The first order regular solution to the Lagrangian equations of motion for an inviscid and incompressible fluid is the so-called Gerstner wave. It shows realistic features such as sharper crests and broader troughs as the wave steepness increases. This paper proposes a second order irregular solution to these equations. The general features of the first and second order waves are described, and some statistical properties of various surface parameters such as the orbital velocity, slope, and mean curvature are studied.

scholarly journals Field data-based evaluation of methods for recovering surface wave elevation from pressure measurements

2019 ◽  
Vol 150 ◽  
pp. 147-159 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Mouragues ◽  
P. Bonneton ◽  
D. Lannes ◽  
B. Castelle ◽  
V. Marieu
Keyword(s):  
Surface Wave ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Pressure Measurements ◽  
Wave Elevation ◽  
Evaluation Of Methods

Steady State Motion and Surface Waves

1996 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. T. C. Ting
Keyword(s):  
Steady State ◽  
Surface Wave ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Existence And Uniqueness ◽  
Wave Speed ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Elastic Materials ◽  
Steady State Motion ◽  
Anisotropic Elastic

The Stroh formalism for two-dimensional elastostatics can be extended to elastodynamics when the problem is a steady state motion. Most of the identities in Chapters 6 and 7 remain applicable. The Barnett-Lothe tensors S, H, L now depend on the speed υ of the steady state motion. However S(υ), H(υ), L(υ) are no longer tensors because they do not obey the laws of tensor transformation when υ≠0. Depending on the problems the speed υ may not be prescribed arbitrarily. This is particularly the case for surface waves in a half-space where υ is the surface wave speed. The problem of the existence and uniqueness of a surface wave speed in anisotropic materials is the crux of surface wave theory. It is a subject that has been extensively studied since the pioneer work of Stroh (1962). Excellent expositions on surface waves for anisotropic elastic materials have been given by Farnell (1970), Chadwick and Smith (1977), Barnett and Lothe (1985), and more recently, by Chadwick (1989d).

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