scholarly journals HIGHLY RESOLVED DIRECTIONAL PROPERTIES OF WIND WAVES AND SWELL WITH VARIOUS SCALES

2018 ◽  
pp. 36
Author(s):  
Takashi Fujiki ◽  
Koji Kawaguchi ◽  
Fumikazu Suehiro ◽  
Noriaki Hashimoto
Keyword(s):  
Wind Waves ◽  
Engineering Application ◽  
Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Coastal Waves ◽  
Coastal Process ◽  
Current Profiler

Wave directional spectrum is basic information as the forcing on the coastal process. The directional properties of coastal waves have been widely investigated through observations and the results are applied for design use of coastal structures and implementation of numerical wave model. But these studies focused only on wind waves under moderate sea conditions because the limitations of instruments such as buoys and wave staffs make them unsuitable for observing under various sea conditions including the severe sea. Thus there are few systematic studies for coastal engineering application which needs treatment for various sea state, from modest to severe sea. In this study, we observed the wave directional spectrum with the bottom mounted ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) which can record even under severe conditions. We investigated the directional properties of wind waves and swell with various scales.

scholarly journals A NEW STRATEGIC WAVE MEASUREMENT STATION OFF NAPLES PORT MAIN BREAKWATER

2017 ◽  
pp. 36 ◽  
Author(s):  
Luca Centurioni ◽  
Lance Braasch ◽  
Enrico Di Lauro ◽  
Pasquale Contestabile ◽  
Francesco De Leo ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Energy ◽  
Low Cost ◽  
Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Gulf Of Naples ◽  
Current Profiler ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
Low Costs ◽  
Good Agreement

The accuracy of directional wave spectra sensors is crucial for obtaining accurate forecasts of ocean and coastal wave conditions for scientific and engineering applications. In this paper, a newly designed, low-cost GPS-based wave buoy, called the Directional Wave Spectra Drifter (DWSD), is presented. A field test campaign was conducted at the Gulf of Naples, Italy with the goal of comparing the directional wave properties obtained with the DWSD and with a nearly co-located bottom-mounted Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) from Teledyne RD-Instruments. The comparison shows a very good agreement between the two methodologies. The reliability of this innovative instrument and its low costs allow a large variety of applications, including the implementation of a global, satellite-linked, real-time open-ocean network of drifting directional wave spectra sensors and monitoring the sea-state in harbors to aid ship transit and for planning coastal and offshore constructions. The DWSD is currently in use to better constrain the wave energy climatology with the goal of optimizing the design of a full-scale prototype Wave Energy Converter (WEC) in the port of Naples, Italy.

COASTAL ENGINEERING 2000

2000 ◽  
Vol 1 (27) ◽  
Author(s):  
Billy L. Edge
Keyword(s):  
Wind Waves ◽  
Storm Surges ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Coastal Processes ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Coastal Waves ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
The Individual ◽  
Engineering Projects

*** Available Only Through ASCE *** http://ascelibrary.aip.org/browse/asce/vol_title.jsp?scode=C This Proceedings contains more than 300 papers presented at the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which was held in Sydney, Australia, 16-21 July 2000. The Proceedings is divided into five parts: characteristics of coastal waves and currents; long period waves, storm surges and wave groups; coastal structures; coastal processes and sediment transport; and coastal, estuarine, and environmental problems. The individual papers include such topics as the effects of wind, waves, storms, and currents as well as the study of sedimentation, erosion, and beach nourishment. Special emphasis is given to case studies of completed engineering projects. With the inclusion of both theoretical and practical information, these papers provide the civil engineer and professionals in related fields with a broad range of information on coastal engineering and coastal processes affecting design and operations in the coastal zone.This Proceedings contains more than 300 papers presented at the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which was held in Sydney, Australia, 16-21 July 2000. The Proceedings is divided into five parts: characteristics of coastal waves and currents; long period waves, storm surges and wave groups; coastal structures; coastal processes and sediment transport; and coastal, estuarine, and environmental problems. The individual papers include such topics as the effects of wind, waves, storms, and currents as well as the study of sedimentation, erosion, and beach nourishment. Special emphasis is given to case studies of completed engineering projects. With the inclusion of both theoretical and practical information, these papers provide the civil engineer and professionals in related fields with a broad range of information on coastal engineering and coastal processes affecting design and operations in the coastal zone.This Proceedings contains more than 300 papers presented at the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which was held in Sydney, Australia, 16-21 July 2000. The Proceedings is divided into five parts: characteristics of coastal waves and currents; long period waves, storm surges and wave groups; coastal structures; coastal processes and sediment transport; and coastal, estuarine, and environmental problems. The individual papers include such topics as the effects of wind, waves, storms, and currents as well as the study of sedimentation, erosion, and beach nourishment. Special emphasis is given to case studies of completed engineering projects. With the inclusion of both theoretical and practical information, these papers provide the civil engineer and professionals in related fields with a broad range of information on coastal engineering and coastal processes affecting design and operations in the coastal zone. *********** This volume was originally published by ASCE. ASCE database link, for record and hard copy purchase: http://cedb.asce.org/cgi/WWWdisplay.cgi?126156

scholarly journals Numerical simulation of wave spectrum during a typhoon

2021 ◽  
Vol 290 ◽  
pp. 02019
Author(s):  
Congying Kong ◽  
Hao Liu
Keyword(s):  
Growth Process ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Third Generation ◽  
Wavewatch Iii ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
The Third ◽  
Sea Area ◽  
The Relationship

The third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH-III was used to numerically simulate the wave under the influence of a typhoon in the coastal area of China. The wave spectrum at the buoy point was output, and the characteristics of the wave spectrum were analyzed. The change of the wave spectrum during the typhoon process reflected the growth process of typhoon formation, development and extinction. The relationship between the wave spectrum and the wind direction was intuitively shown by the directional spectrum, indicating the coexistence of wind waves and swells in the sea area during the typhoon process.

scholarly journals Predicting freakish sea state with an operational third-generation wave model

2014 ◽  
Vol 14 (4) ◽  
pp. 945-957 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. Waseda ◽  
K. In ◽  
K. Kiyomatsu ◽  
H. Tamura ◽  
Y. Miyazawa ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Model ◽  
Spectral Geometry ◽  
Wave System ◽  
Third Generation ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Basic Parameters ◽  
Discrete Interaction ◽  
Generation Mechanisms ◽  
Accident Case

Abstract. The understanding of freak wave generation mechanisms has advanced and the community has reached a consensus that spectral geometry plays an important role. Numerous marine accident cases were studied and revealed that the narrowing of the directional spectrum is a good indicator of dangerous sea. However, the estimation of the directional spectrum depends on the performance of the third-generation wave model. In this work, a well-studied marine accident case in Japan in 1980 (Onomichi-Maru incident) is revisited and the sea states are hindcasted using both the DIA (discrete interaction approximation) and SRIAM (Simplified Research Institute of Applied Mechanics) nonlinear source terms. The result indicates that the temporal evolution of the basic parameters (directional spreading and frequency bandwidth) agree reasonably well between the two schemes and therefore the most commonly used DIA method is qualitatively sufficient to predict freakish sea state. The analyses revealed that in the case of Onomichi-Maru, a moving gale system caused the spectrum to grow in energy with limited downshifting at the accident's site. This conclusion contradicts the marine inquiry report speculating that the two swell systems crossed at the accident's site. The unimodal wave system grew under strong influence of local wind with a peculiar energy transfer.

scholarly journals Predicting freakish sea state with an operational third generation wave model

2013 ◽  
Vol 1 (6) ◽  
pp. 6257-6289 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. Waseda ◽  
K. In ◽  
K. Kiyomatsu ◽  
H. Tamura ◽  
Y. Miyazawa ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Model ◽  
Spectral Geometry ◽  
Wave System ◽  
Third Generation ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Freak Wave ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Basic Parameters ◽  
Accident Case ◽  
Accident Site

Abstract. Understanding of freak wave generation mechanism has advanced and the community has reached to a consensus that spectral geometry plays an important role. Numerous marine accident cases were studied and revealed that the narrowing of the directional spectrum is a good indicator of dangerous sea. However, the estimation of the directional spectrum depends on the performance of the third generation wave model. In this work, a well-studied marine accident case in Japan in 1980 (Onomichi–Maru incident) is revisited and the sea states are hind-casted using both the DIA and SRIAM nonlinear source terms. The result indicates that the temporal evolution of the basic parameters (directional spreading and frequency bandwidth) agree reasonably well between the two schemes and therefore most commonly used DIA method is qualitatively sufficient to predict freakish sea state. The analyses revealed that in the case of Onomichi–Maru, a moving gale system caused the spectrum to grow in energy with limited down-shifting at the accident site. This conclusion contradicts the marine inquiry report speculating that the two swell systems crossed at the accident site. The unimodal wave system grew under strong influence of local wind with a peculiar energy transfer.

Klamath River Water Quality and Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler Data from Link River Dam to Keno Dam, 2007

2008 ◽  
Author(s):  
Annett B. Sullivan ◽  
Michael L. Deas ◽  
Jessica Asbill ◽  
Julie D. Kirshtein ◽  
Kenna D. Butler ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Water Quality ◽  
River Water ◽  
Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler ◽  
River Water Quality ◽  
Klamath River ◽  
Current Profiler ◽  
Profiler Data
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