LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ABOUT BED PATTERNS IN THE SHOALING REGION UNDER REGULAR WAVES AND REFLECTING CONDITIONS

Author(s):  
Manuel Cobos ◽  
María Clavero ◽  
Sandro Longo ◽  
Asunción Baquerizo ◽  
Miguel Angel Losada

This research is an experimental study of ripple dynamic for regular waves propagating on horizontal and sloping beds in mid- and high-reflective conditions. Small-scale laboratory experiments were carried out on shoaling region (with non breaking waves) and sediment transport in bedload regime. Our experiments showed the key role that plays the reflection in ripple development. The spatial modulation of the free surface elevation due to reflection created sandbars. Ripples grew up in the region where sandbars were appearing. These patterns were gradually reproduced from breakwater to offshore. The incidence of sandbar created a bi-modal structure of ripple geometry. The larger ripples appeared in the crest of sandbars whereas smaller ripples were found in the troughs. Furthermore, it was found that the evolution of ripples at these two locations can be explained by means of different growth mechanisms. Finally, at equilibrium stages, ripple height converges reaching the same height along the sandbar while ripple length and steepness remains almost constant.

Author(s):  
K M Ahtesham Hossain Raju ◽  
Shinji Sato

Response of sand dune when overwashed by tsunami or storm surge, is investigated by conducting small scale laboratory study. Dune consisting of initially wet sand and initially dry sand are tested for three different sand grain sizes. Overtopping of water and the corresponding sediment transport are analyzed. These data set can be used to validate mathematical models associated with dune sediment transport as well as prediction of dune profile.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ting Cui ◽  
Arun Kamath ◽  
Weizhi Wang ◽  
Lihao Yuan ◽  
Duanfeng Han ◽  
...  

Abstract The correct estimation of wave loading on a cylinder in a cylinder group under different impact scenarios is essential to determine the structural safety of coastal and offshore structures. This scenario differs from the interaction of waves with a single cylinder but not a lot of studies focus on cylinder groups under different arrangements. In this study, the interaction between plunging breaking waves and cylinder groups in deep water is investigated using the two-phase flow model in REEF3D, an open-source computational fluid dynamics program. The Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equation with the two equation k–Ω turbulence model is adopted to resolve the numerical wave tank, with free surface calculated using the level set method. In this study, focused waves in deep water were modeled with a fixed wave steepness method. Wave breaking occurs when the steepness of the wave crest front satisfies the breaking criteria. The model is validated by comparing the numerical wave forces and free surface elevation with measurements from experiments. The computational results show fairly good agreement with experimental data for both free surface elevation and wave forces. Four cases are simulated to investigate the interaction of breaking waves with a cylinder group with different relative distance, number of cylinders and arrangement. Results show that breaking wave forces on the upstream cylinder are smaller than on a single cylinder with a relative distance of one cylinder diameter. The wave forces on cylinders in the pile group are effected by the relative distance between cylinders. The staggered arrangement has a significant influence on the wave forces on the first and second cylinder. The interaction inside a cylinder group mostly happens between the neighbouring cylinders. These interactions are also effected by the relative distance and the numbers of the neighbouring cylinders.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 46
Author(s):  
Jens Figlus ◽  
Nobuhisa Kobayashi ◽  
Christine Gralher

The recovery of beaches after a storm can be influenced significantly by ridge-runnel migration. Ridges are made up of large volumes of sand which is important for the coastal sediment budget. The experiment described in this paper gives an insight into the complex hydrodynamics and sediment transport mechanisms related to onshore ridge-runnel migration. Detailed water free surface elevation, fluid velocity and sediment transport rate measurements were taken in a mobile bed wave flume with a focus on the effect of water ponding and runnel drainage on the profile evolution. The measured results have been used to calibrate the time-averaged numerical cross-shore model CSHORE. The model has the capability to deal with the effect of a pronounced profile depression (water-filled runnel) forming on the intermittently wet and dry zone of the beach. Results of the experiment compared with the corresponding numerical model computations show that the rapid onshore migration of a ridge-runnel system under fairly energetic wave conditions can be computed with CSHORE but further improvements of the model are necessary.


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Wolf-Gerrit Fruh ◽  
Peter Szabo ◽  
Christoph Egbers ◽  
Harlander Uwe

<p>The baroclinic rotating annulus is a classic experiment to investigate the transition from regular waves to complex flows.  A well documented transition via Amplitude Vacillation leads to low-dimensional chaos through a sequence of canonical bifurcations.  However, the transition to geostrophic turbulence is usually through a regime of 'Structural Vacillation' (SV) which retains the overall spatial structure of regular waves but includes small-scale variability.  Even though the SV vacillation occurs with a clear time scale, the dynamics of SV cannot usually be described by low-dimensional dynamics.  For example, attractor dimension estimations tend to fail: they may not show any scaling region or converge to an unrealistic values.  Explanations of the origin of SV have variously invoked higher radial modes of the fundamental baroclinic waves, local secondary instabilities in the baroclinic waves caused by high thermal gradients (gravity waves) or velocity shear (barotropic instability), or instabilities within the side-wall (Stewartson) boundary layers.</p><p>The aim of this paper is to identify where within the fluid different signals of variability are located at different stages in the transition from a steady wave to pronounced SV.   To this end, a set of experiments in a water-filled rotating annulus with a free surface (inner radius 45 mm, outer radius 120 mm, fluid depth 140 mm) was carried out covering a temperature difference between the heated outer wall and the cooler inner wall of between 6 and 9.5 K, and a range of rotation rates from 0.84 to 2.29 rad/s (<em>Ta</em>= 4.75 x 10<sup>7</sup> - 3.53 x 10<sup>8</sup> and <em>Θ</em> = 0.0617 - 0.629).   The flow was observed through an infrared camera capturing the temperatures of the free surface.  Images of the flow were recorded for a period of 15 minutes at a sampling rate of 1 Hz at the lower rotation rates and 2 Hz at the higher rotation rates.</p><p>The initial processing of the time series of temperature images involved normalisation of the temperatures followed by rotation of the images to a coordinate system co-rotating with the main baroclinic wave mode. The resulting images were separated into the time-mean wave field and the fluctuation field, resulting in a set of normalised temperature fluctuations at fixed points relative to the main baroclinic wave.   Each of the time series was then used to calculate the power spectrum at that location.  The low-frequency part of the spectra (up until half the tank rotation frequency) was used in a k-means cluster analysis to identify clusters of similar spectral shape and, from this, create a map of which spectral shape was found at which location in the flow field.</p><p>The results show isolated locations of a high frequency peak near the inner boundary at the onset of visible fluctuations.  Further into the regime of clear structural vacillations, areas of pronounced variability at lower frequencies become visible at the lee shoulder of the cold jets in the fluid interior, followed by activity where the end of the cold jet interacts with the hot jet emanating from the outer boundary layer.</p>


Author(s):  
Rodolfo T. Gonçalves ◽  
Guilherme F. Rosetti ◽  
André L. C. Fujarra ◽  
Kazuo Nishimoto ◽  
Allan C. Oliveira

Aiming to complete the results presented before by Gonçalves et al. (2011) – Experimental Study on Vortex-Induced Motions (VIM) of a Large-Volume Semi-Submersible Platform, OMAE2011, the present work brings new experimental results on VIM of a large-volume semi-submersible platform, particularly concerning its coexistence with waves in the free surface. The VIM tests were performed in the presence of three regular waves and also three different conditions of sea state. According to the results, considerable differences between the presence of regular or irregular waves were observed. The motion amplitudes in the transverse direction decreased harshly when the regular waves were performed and no VIM was observed. In the case of sea state condition tests, the amplitudes decreased slightly but a periodic motion characterized by the VIM was observed. The results herein presented concern transverse and yaw motion amplitudes, as well as spectral analyses.


Author(s):  
Ali Hasanzadeh Daloui ◽  
Mirmosadegh Jamali

Scour is an important cause of instability of breakwaters. In case of vertical-wall breakwaters, toe scour can cause collapse of the whole structure. This paper is concerned with an experimental study of the effects of regular breaking waves on scour at toe of vertical-wall breakwaters. Experiments were carried out in a wave flume with regular waves for two cases of a beach with and without a breakwater. Bed profiles and scour depths for various wave heights, periods and depths were recorded. For the case of a beach without a breakwater, the observed bed profile types are compared to predictions. For the case of a beach with a breakwater, factors affecting the scour are investigated, and an empirical equation for scour depth at toe of a vertical wall is proposed.


Author(s):  
Yeulwoo Kim ◽  
Ryan C. Mieras ◽  
Zhen Cheng ◽  
Tian-Jian Hsu ◽  
Jack A. Puleo

Wave-driven sediment transport is one of the main drivers of beach morphodynamics. However, the creation of a comprehensive numerical model remains to be a challenging task due to complex mechanisms associated with unsteadiness and free-surface effects. Particularly for highly non-linear and skewed-asymmetric breaking waves, the boundary layer approximation (i.e., assuming horizontal pressure gradient is equal to local free-stream acceleration) is questionable. Moreover, wave-breaking-induced turbulence may approach the bed and further enhance sediment transport. Thus, a numerical model that can resolve the entire water column from the bottom boundary layer to the free-surface can be a powerful tool to understand wave-driven sediment transport.


Author(s):  
Rafael de Andrade Watai ◽  
Fabio Tadao Matsumoto ◽  
Joa˜o Vicente Sparano ◽  
Alexandre Nicolaos Simos ◽  
Marcos Donato A. S. Ferreira

Since July 2008, the Numerical Offshore Tank (TPN) of the University of Sa˜o Paulo and Petrobras have been working on a research project intended to improve knowledge and modeling of advanced hydrodynamics topics, such as the wave run-up phenomenon. Among other activities, wave basin tests were performed with small-scale model of a large volume semi-submersible designed to operate in Campos Basin. These tests evidenced significant run-up effects on its squared-section columns for the steepest waves in several design conditions. In order to evaluate the difficulties involved in modeling the wave run-up phenomenon, simplified tests were also carried out with the model fixed and moored in regular waves with varying steepness. Previous studies using a 2nd order BEM model and a VOF CFD code to predict free-surface elevations below the deck under regular waves were presented in Matsumoto et al. (2010). The studies illustrated considerable differences between the wave elevation results in fixed and moored model setup; however, by that time, the analysis of the moored model by a VOF CFD code was not yet complete. This paper, therefore, presents wave run-up estimations with a moving large volume semi-submersible platform performed with the CFD code ComFLOW, which solves the Navier-Stokes equations employing a local height function to the free surface displacement. The phenomenon is investigated by simulating the flow around the semi-submersible model under the influence of high steepness regular waves on a non-uniform grid. Platform motions, derived from a first order BEM code, are imposed and synchronized with the incoming wave. Aiming at avoiding numerical wave reflections, a damping zone is also applied and positioned downstream the platform model. Predicted results are compared to experimental data, measured by seven vertical wave probes located in different positions below the model deck. Although considerably time-consuming, it will be shown that simulations present very good agreement with the experimental results.


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