scholarly journals SWASH ZONE BASED REFLECTION DURING ENERGETIC WAVE CONDITIONS AT A DISSIPATIVE BEACH: TOWARD A WAVE-BY-WAVE APPROACH

2014 ◽  
Vol 1 (34) ◽  
pp. 34 ◽  
Author(s):  
Rafael Almar ◽  
Patricio Catalan ◽  
Raimundo Ibaceta ◽  
Christopher Blenkinsopp ◽  
Rodrigo Cienfuegos ◽  
...  
2014 ◽  
Vol 1 (34) ◽  
pp. 35 ◽  
Author(s):  
Luis Pedro Almeida ◽  
Gerd Masselink ◽  
Paul Russell ◽  
Mark Davidson ◽  
Robert McCall ◽  
...  

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 20
Author(s):  
Renata Archetti ◽  
Maria Gabriella Gaeta

The main parameter for the assessment of coastal vulnerability and sediment transport is the wave run-up on the beach, defining the limit of maximum flooding, but also hydrodynamic properties in the Swash Zone (SZ) are trivial for the comprehension of hydro-morphodynamic processes. Several studies have been carried out on the SZ but few literature is still available on the run-up and on SZ flows on beaches protected by Low Crested Structures (LCSs), where flow motion is driven by a combination of low frequency infra-gravity waves and incident waves. In presence of breakwaters, swash incident waves are transmitted through the structure. In the transmission area behind the structures, wave energy is shifted to higher frequencies with respect to the incident wave spectrum and in general its mean period considerably decreases with respect to the incident one. Collecting in situ run-up measurements during storms is essential to understand the SZ processes and properly calibrate their both empirical and numerical models but measuring extreme run-up is difficult, due to the severe sea conditions and due to unexpected nature of storms. The present paper present a numerical and experimental analysis of the wave run-up and of the flow properties on a beach: the study shows the different behavior of unprotected and protected beach, subjected to the same wave conditions. In particular the paper shows that submerged breakwaters reduce in general the run-up height, on the basis of the calibrated 2DV numerical simulations, under extreme wave conditions (TR >50 years), the effect of submerged breakwaters seems to be negligible on the run-up height. Moreover a preliminary empirical equation for run-up with protected beach is proposed


Author(s):  
Riccardo Briganti ◽  
Rosaria Ester Musumeci ◽  
Jentsje Van der Meer ◽  
Alessandro Romano ◽  
Laura Maria Stancanelli ◽  
...  

This work presents the results of an experimental investigation on the effects of a sequence of storms on wave overtopping at a nearly vertical battered seawall at the back of a sandy foreshore. The experiments were carried out in the Large Wave Flume (GWK) at Leibniz Universität Hannover (Germany), as part of the research project ICODEP (Impact of Changing fOreshore on flood DEfence Performance), within the European Union programme Hydralab+. The layout consisted of a 10/1 battered seawall and a natural sandy foreshore with an initial 1:15 slope. The beach sand had a nominal diameter of 0.30 mm. Three storm sequences were simulated, where each consisted of three individual storms. Each storm was divided into six steps in which the wave conditions and still water level were varied to represent the peak of an actual storm. The six sea states were based on a JONSWAP spectral shape, with wave heights roughly between 0.6 m and 0.8 m. Two still water levels were tested. For the central two steps the level was such that the freeboard was only 0.14 m and almost all waves were overtopping. In the remaining steps low still water levels were employed, leaving a narrow swash zone. Two storm profiles were considered, the first one with a lower level of energy and the second one with a higher one. These were combined in the three different sequences. All the tested wave conditions were designed to be erosive for the beach, with no recovery in between. Each sequence started from a plain beach configuration and the beach was not restored in between storms. The measurements included waves, pressure and forces, sediment concentrations and flow velocity together with overtopping. The profile of the beach was measured after each sea state tested.


Author(s):  
Takayuki Suzuki ◽  
Yu Inami ◽  
Shinichi Yanagishima ◽  
Shuhei Sakihama ◽  
Daniel Cox

From the aspect of beach management, understanding of sediment movement from the outer-surf zone to the swash zone during recovery duration is important. In this study, field observations were conducted during accretive wave conditions to investigate the sediment movement from the outer side of the bar to the swash zone using fluorescent sand tracers.


2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (5) ◽  
pp. 302 ◽  
Author(s):  
Luís Pedro Almeida ◽  
Rafael Almar ◽  
Chris Blenkinsopp ◽  
Nadia Senechal ◽  
Erwin Bergsma ◽  
...  

A field experiment was conducted at a tropical microtidal intermediate sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the short-term swash-zone hydrodynamics and morphodynamics under variable wave conditions. Continuous 2D Lidar scanner observations of wave height at the lower foreshore, subsequent run-up and swash-induced topographic changes were obtained. These data were complemented by detailed real-time kinematic GPS topographic surveys. Variable wave and tide conditions were experienced during the field experiment with relatively large swell waves (offshore significant wave height, Hs = 0.9 m to 1.3 m; peak wave period, Tp = 8 to 12 s) concomitant with spring tides at the beginning of the period, followed by mild wind waves (offshore Hs under 0.5 m and Tp 5 s) and neap tides. This resulted in the following morphological sequence: berm erosion followed by rapid neap berm reformation and beach recovery within a few days. New insights into the link between intra-tidal swash dynamics and daily beach profile evolution were found using the Lidar dataset. While waves directly cause morphology changes on a wave-by-wave basis, tidal levels were found to be a key factor in determining the morphological wave-effect (accretive or erosive) due to modulated interaction between surf and swash hydro-morphodynamics.


Author(s):  
O.L. Krivanek ◽  
J. TaftØ

It is well known that a standing electron wavefield can be set up in a crystal such that its intensity peaks at the atomic sites or between the sites or in the case of more complex crystal, at one or another type of a site. The effect is usually referred to as channelling but this term is not entirely appropriate; by analogy with the more established particle channelling, electrons would have to be described as channelling either through the channels or through the channel walls, depending on the diffraction conditions.


1986 ◽  
Vol 47 (C8) ◽  
pp. C8-89-C8-92 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. V. VEDRINSKII ◽  
L. A. BUGAEV

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